Rust Prevention Product Review - Your Help & Input appreciated

[jimbur]

I use G15 on my planes, saws and chisels. Even with all the moisture up here I haven't got any rust. A quick spray after I'm finished working seems to keep it at bay.

Slightly off-track but has G15 reached any of the hardware stores in Victoria?
Cheers,
Jim

[Mr Brush]

I doubt it......I always stock up at the WWW shows (Sydney & Canberra) from either Jim Davey or Chris Vesper.

I use G15 for just about everything, and 4 cans just about lasts me between shows

[jimbur]

I doubt it......I always stock up at the WWW shows (Sydney & Canberra) from either Jim Davey or Chris Vesper.
I use G15 for just about everything, and 4 cans just about lasts me between shows

I'll have to get out more.
Cheers,
Jim

[RossM]

Australian Inhibitor is the company that supplies G15 - here is the link You can get it in 200 litre drums

Chris Vesper sells it from his web site, as does The Woodworks

Bynorm (garden & outdoor machinery wholesaler) had it for about $7 per can a while ago, you needed to buy a carton (12 cans) & know someone with a wholesale account. Thir dealers should be able to order it, but you will then need to pay soem sort of markup on the wholesale price.

EDIT - here is a link to Bynorm & here is pricing from a few years back. They also have Lanox on this cattledog page at a good price!! (Prices will - I guess - have increased )

[jimbur]

Thanks Ross,
Jim

[DoctorBobski]

Got my can from Carbatec. Not in the catalogue that I can find though.

[rsser]

Good to know.

AFAIK the stuff can't be posted, only couriered, cos its flammable.

Still worth it though in my book; have been through a range of stuff and G15, along with TopSaver, is proving the best.

[fletty]

I use Topsaver if there is rust or an abrasive pad on an old sander if there is only dried glue. I then finish with Ubeaut Traditional wax using another abrasive pad on the sander.
fletty

[simonmags]

Sounds like G15 and Top Saver are ticking a few boxes, still curious to hear from anyone that uses Boiled Linseed Oil based stuff.

Cheers All

[spartan]

old post I know but...what about unscented baby oil - its the same as machine oil, and home brand version is really cheap. I use it to give an initial wipe down to hand tools/chisels etc.

[simonmags]

I'll keep that one in mind, I would have thought the markup on anything with the word baby in it was pretty huge, but if it's cheaper than machine oil that's good.

Someone told me that Silber Gliet (or Silver Glide if you prefer) is a Silicon Based product and that while it's okay to use on first pass machine like the table saw it should be kept away from finishing machines like the planer and hand planes etc... Any thoughts on that? Obviously if it was silcon based then finishes would not adhere to it correctly...

[RossM]

I think the major difference between light oils and purpose developed rust preventatives are things like water displacement, ability to dry & leave a protective film on the surface, lack of oxydising agents, and in some cases the inclusion of chemicals that slow the ionisation process.

The problem with many light oils is that they can seal in moisture that is already on the metal surface, and while slowing the rusting, will not be as effective. They may also include oxidising agents, contain acids, be susceptible to dissolving oxygen or not be effective in sealing out atmospheric oxygen or moisture; all this leading to rust formation.

[Boringgeoff]

I use a lubricant/penetrant called L10 made by Industrial Chemical Technologies in Perth. I bought a 5 litre container from Atom Supply in Welshpool.
G.

[orraloon]

For the last 30 plus years I have used WD40 as a short term rust preventer but more often to clean rust off things. I use 3 in 1 to keep rust away. On saw tables and lathe bed I degrease them and rub on any wax polish I have to hand. I mean propper cabinet wax in a tin not the spray stuff. I have never bought a purpose made rust inhibitor only used what was already in the shed. There is no magic rust preventor that lasts forever. Rust prevention is about regular checks and cleaning as required for the climate you live in.
Regards
John

[Ratbag]

I've a friend who's a gunsmith that absolutely adores WD40, CRC et. al.

He states they're great for business, meaning that firearms liberally dosed with the above inevitably come in for repair, through longer term corrosion damage and general gunk buildup that inhibits automatic extraction/reload/cocking mechanisms.

According to Moz, these type of products, while excellent at penetrating and freeing up frozen parts, use both hydrocarbon and water based solvents. He recommends INOX as a superior alternative, as there's a lessened likelihood of corrosion damage.

Camellia oil is also a time honoured rust preventative for carbon steel hand tools, but I find it a bit gunky & sticky. I use stainless steel wool "curly girl" pads to clean and a dab of engine oil to protect my hand plane soles when stored after use. Less is more in these circumstances, unless you like oil smears on your workpieces.

Those lanolin-based products available on the domestic market aren't bad either. I've had good results on my cast iron planer/thicknesser bed (lanotec), and add a light rub of hard wax prior to each use.

Boiled Linseed oil leaves a lovely finish on (unvarnished) wooden handles. It's used on everything from kitchen knives to garden tools.