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  1. #16
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    Nov 2008
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    Default Blast Away

    Greg and Ken,

    What's the chance of a before and after photo of the process? I'm sure there are a few of us who are interested.

    Bob.

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  3. #17
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    Nov 2006
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    Heidelberg, Victoria
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    79
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    Default

    Hi Greg,

    You're on, I appreciate your offer. Will contact you.

    After media blasting, will it necessary to nickel plate the dials, or should the plating be done first?

    YouTube - Nickel Plating Made Easy (Part 1)

    After looking at this video, I can't believe how fast and easy it looks.

    Ken

  4. #18
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    Jul 2003
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    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
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    Default

    Pictures to come. I am acting on info from Alan in Perth who did his dials a couple of years back. I am not planning to plate mine as I don't think they are now.

  5. #19
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    Default

    Hey Greg,

    Who is this Alan fellow? I also received an email from him, out of the blue, re refurbishing dials, very informative.

    Ken

  6. #20
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Are we all missing out on something?

    Dave

  7. #21
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    Heidelberg, Victoria
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    Default Satin finished dials

    Sorry Dave,

    After starting this post, I received an email from a chap called Alan in WA. I presume he is not a member, and wished to remain anonymous.

    His email described his efforts at refurbishing dials achieving the satin chrome appearance by glass bead blasting. He went on to show the type of gun used and the blast media.

    The gun was made in Australia by Samson P/N S162001. The glass beads were made by Potter Industries in Laverton. [email protected]

    It seems he also sent the same email to Greg.

    He went on to mention that someone in the States is printing graduations on a mylar strip, that you wrap around the dial.That's all the info he had.


    Attached are a few snaps

    Ken

  8. #22
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Thanks for that.
    I have heard about that tape being available, you send the the diameter you need and they make the tape to suit, but it is costly.

    The normal super cheap type blasting gun that has a rubber hose will work as well to do the basting. It comes with 3 different size nozzles.
    Also sand will do the same job as the glass. I have both here and they leave the same result, but the glass cuts quicker and lasts longer.
    Using these might save a few dollars.

    Dave

  9. #23
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    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Default Alan's FP1 Dial

    Ken,

    Can you expand on the process used by Alan to refurbish the dial? Was it satin chrome plated like your Arboga dial and coated with a layer of superficial rust?

    I'm pretty sure the final photo is part of the work of this talented fellow. Unbelievable.

    Phase II, oder die Mini-Bonelle


    Bob.

  10. #24
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    Default

    Dave,

    Tape's cheating. Do it the hard way with a punch.

    Bob.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
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    Default

    AB,

    The following text is copied from the email sent to me.

    Hi Ken, While I'm not sure of the Arboga dials, the ones I did were on my FP1, the flash chrome plating had lifted and blistered. I'm told this is because of poor nickel plated base material, anyway after a lot of looking around I ended up at a place that does/did glass murals using a blast media, gun looks like one used for spray painting. The fellow was most helpful and I ended up with a Samson gun, info attached.


    To start with I skimmed the dials in the lathe, sharp HSS tool and just took off enough to get down to base metal, this also removed some of the engraved lines/numbers, but did not erase them completely. Next step to use the gun with the Ballotini material (see photos) this leaves a nice finish. It took some practice to get the finish right, the dial was slowly rotated while blasted. The lines/numbers were then remarked using a Tungsten Carbide scribe and if you could look closely this was the area that did not turn out perfectly, some line over run, but unless someone pointed it out it would not be noticeable. The next step was to darken the engraving with artists oil based black paint. Overall I think it turned out well considering, all 3 dials have been done and you can see a bit of a contrast in the first picture. Sorry I did not get before photos as I was unsure of where this was going to end up.



    I did try several engraves to see if they would remark the dial professionally and at least here in Perth no one was game to take it on. I also looked at a company that does CNC engraving and they would not even attack it, as they said any small positioning error would show up. I suspect the original marking were rolled on/in and not engraved.



    Compressor works hard driving the gun, IIRC around 85-90 psi.



    I have provided this same info to another fellow in Melbourne who is looking to do the same, therefore there maybe some sharing of equipment that may lessen the cost impact. I think the gun was around $90 and the media about $30.



    In the last several days I have seen where a fellow in the USA used laser printed mylar to make dial markings, last photo, but I don't have any detailed info.



    Anyway if there is any other info you need re the above let me know.



    All the best

    Alan

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
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    Default

    Apologies all, not trying to hide, its just that communications from some places outside Oz can be like watching molasses pour during winter, especially if the site is web based with associated graphics. Sometimes its easier to just send an email. I redid my FP1 dials where the scales are due to pitting and lifting of the surface finish, it was mentioned probably because of poor nickel plating before the chrome finish. The procedure used as already mentioned was not an original, it came from a fellow here in Perth that was doing glass murals using the gun and media referred to. Anyway I'm sure Greg and Ken will be better able to articulate and post their progress than myself. The photo of the mylar type graduation tape as mentioned was just provided as an option of someone else's excellent work on the subject. Alan.

  13. #27
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    Heidelberg, Victoria
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    Default

    Just out of curiosity, I Googled this Phase II, oder die Mini-Bonelle , English translation.

    Well, the translated text was unbelievable, obviously a real struggle for the Google engine.

    Have a look and see if you can work it out.

    PS, hello Alan, nice to know you are a member.

    Ken


  14. #28
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    Default An update...

    I rang ITW Technologies in Sydney to find a dealer for the Samson gun. "Out of production, no longer available" was the reply. Arrgh. Anyway, eBay has a local supplier of walnut shell and glass beads (and also garnet).

    I am trying to decide between buying a Chinese blasting cabinet or a Chinese paint-gun type total loss gun. I don't want to have to make room/find the budget for the cabinet. How much mess does glass blasting outside make?

    (I'd get it done commercially but have never had any luck finding a blaster that cares as much about my items as I do)

  15. #29
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    Perth WA
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    Default How much mess does glass blasting outside make?

    Greg,

    If you were going to do it outside why not lay out a large cheap blue tarpaulin and turn up the rear to form a backdrop. If the tarp was big enough, the blasting media would run out of puff and fall harmlessly onto the sheet facilitating collection and reuse. Just an idea.

    Bob.

  16. #30
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    Jul 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
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    Default

    Greg,
    I'll scrounge the dealers here tomorrow to see if they have a Samson unit left. As for garnet, I tried that originally and it appeared to leave a much too coarse a finish, but maybe there are different grades of the stuff. I did my dials outside and used about 2 pots of the media. Alan.

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