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  1. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by callsign222 View Post
    Who is this davlafont? And how can I be like him?
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

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  3. #167
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    Jun 2009
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    New Hampshire
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    Damn! My secret is out!

  4. #168
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    Aug 2010
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    Pulled out my foil blanks and resumed work on them. The rudder has a touch of twist in it. I think it's slight enough that I can correct it during the shaping of the foil section. Here it is in outline:

    IMG_0598 by davlafont, on Flickr

    The daggerboard is still a hair thicker than 22mm. I can't be a perfectionist about this; I must move forward. I know the foil template is based on a 22mm thickness but I think I can get it right regardless. If you look closely you'll see a line along the bottom edge (left). That is the actual measured bottom edge, but I like Simon's technique of leaving a small bit extra that will stay flat. That way the board will be stable when it's flipped over. Of course, he also used a router for much of the rough shaping and I think I might go with a belt sander or plane ( or a combination).

    IMG_0599 by davlafont, on Flickr

    Little by little this thing will come together.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  5. #169
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    Aug 2010
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    New Jersey, USA
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    By the way, the wheels visible in the previous photos are my 3-season tires for my wife's minivan. I also spent some time today swapping out snow tires from two cars.

    And if that's not enough, I have one eye on my trailer too. I have a concept for making a cradle that can 1) support the GIS hull both upright on its flat bottom and turtle on its gunwales, 2) safely secure the spars and mast and oars and foils and other paraphernalia. My vision is for two bulkheads that will align with the GIS #2 and #4 BHDs and three longitudinal tubes (PVC pipe?) that will span the bulkheads and carry the spars, mast, and oars. I think the fore bulkhead may be more of a locker that can store foils and gear, but the dagger board is so darn big, it might need a space of its own.

    IMG_0602 by davlafont, on Flickr

    The trailer is a nice size (recall that the mast is only slightly longer than the hull). I'll probably remove the winch post for something more fitted to the GIS hull.

    IMG_0600 by davlafont, on Flickr

    Not an excessive amount of overhang, but enough that I might need a removable light bar mounted to the hull.

    IMG_0601 by davlafont, on Flickr
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  6. #170
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    Aug 2010
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    New Jersey, USA
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    767

    Default Drumroll please...


    IMG_0617 by davlafont, on Flickr

    I'm in it to win it now! Skiff Or Bust!

    This is only the dry run, but I'm not going back to flat panels again. Sometime this week I'll find the time to glue this baby together. I'm gonna be a Goat Builder damn it!

    More details on my blog...
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  7. #171
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
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    414

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    Hey! That looks like a boat!

  8. #172
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    Aug 2010
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    Partial hull gluing in progress. I started with BH3, then Stem, then Transom. I had enough glue so I did one of my paddle blades and BH2, but just barely in time. My goop kicked off while coating BH2's edges. I ended up losing a hunk of epoxy about the size of a charcoal briquette. That has been my largest waste yet, so I'm pretty pleased. Tomorrow (or later) I'll do BH4 and what I dread the most, BH1. I'm sure with all the others cured it will slip out and back no problem. I think. I hope.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  9. #173
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    UPDATE: I was right! the remaining two bulkheads came out and went back in with little difficulty. It was a little messy because the epoxy made for a good lubricant and allowed the edges to slide along the hull sides, smearing glue like a snail. Everything is locked down now and I'm happy with how it all lined up. Kudos to MIK for the simple construction method and the instructions that make it possible.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  10. #174
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    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    65
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  11. #175
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    Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  12. #176
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    Aug 2010
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    New Jersey, USA
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    Strings!


    From bottom: 5mm spectra halyard, 4mm spectra downhaul, 6mm low stretch bridle/cow hitch/, amsteel corner lashing, yacht braid mainsheet.
    The funky colored spectra is a function of sale price. West Marine had this stuff for $0.25-0.35 per foot. That's dirt cheap for spectra.


    Free blocks (used) add up to 4:1 downhaul. Did I do the math right? I might come up with a different solution, but free is not a bad price!


    SeaDog bow eye. Paulie's looks SO great I had to follow suit. Paul, any words if wisdom on installing it? I'm considering a hardwood cap on the stem.

    Tonight I trim bottom to the chine.

    That is all...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  13. #177
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    414

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    Quote Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
    Paul, any words if wisdom on installing it?
    I'm not feeling very wise these days, but I'll tell you what I did.

    I sanded the stem square and glued on a strip of hardwood as wide as the face and maybe a tad thicker. When the epoxy was cured, I rounded that with a sanding block to form a false stem. The whole thing got taped over, of course, but retained the shape. And I think the hardwood will give it a little more protection in a bump.

    Just before painting the hull, I used a pull saw and a sharp chisel to cut a gap to fit the eye and drilled little pilot holes for the prongs. I then dragooned my son to act a second pair of eyes, lined up the drill, took a deep breath, said a silent prayer to whoever might be the patron saint of shipbuilders, and drilled the hole for the bolt. That patron saint must have been on watch, because the bit came through the center of the back of the stem only slightly north of square.

    I did add the biggest fender washer I could fit behind the stem and bed the whole thing in thickened epoxy. But I'm still not sure I trust it for long or high-speed tow. Way back when I was a kid, I was taught to tie tow ropes to the mast right at the partner, since that was actually much stronger than the stem. And that's what I'll do if I accept a tow. But that ring should be fine for tying up to docks and such.

  14. #178
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    "Old" Hampshire, UK
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    105

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulie View Post
    I'm not feeling very wise these days, but I'll tell you what I did.

    I sanded the stem square and glued on a strip of hardwood as wide as the face and maybe a tad thicker. When the epoxy was cured, I rounded that with a sanding block to form a false stem. The whole thing got taped over, of course, but retained the shape. And I think the hardwood will give it a little more protection in a bump.

    Just before painting the hull, I used a pull saw and a sharp chisel to cut a gap to fit the eye and drilled little pilot holes for the prongs. I then dragooned my son to act a second pair of eyes, lined up the drill, took a deep breath, said a silent prayer to whoever might be the patron saint of shipbuilders, and drilled the hole for the bolt. That patron saint must have been on watch, because the bit came through the center of the back of the stem only slightly north of square.

    I did add the biggest fender washer I could fit behind the stem and bed the whole thing in thickened epoxy. But I'm still not sure I trust it for long or high-speed tow. Way back when I was a kid, I was taught to tie tow ropes to the mast right at the partner, since that was actually much stronger than the stem. And that's what I'll do if I accept a tow. But that ring should be fine for tying up to docks and such.

    That's exactly what I did using a U Bolt so two holes to drill. I used some left over Oak on the bow that will be able to take quite a bit of abuse. The capping is cut away inside the U-bolt so that the the fixing is slightly resessed into the hull but there is still plenty of room for the painter.

    Not a great pic but see atatched.

  15. #179
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
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    I looked in the archives and couldn't find a decent picture of the cutout for the bolt. But I did find rough and finished pics of the false stem:

    Attachment 205526

    Attachment 205527

    If I have time today, I'll get a pic of the bolt as it looks today.

  16. #180
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    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    That looks really great.

    The structural elements for the towing fitting is that the stem is quite massive and is prevented from splitting by having ply on two faces (the boat sides).

    The only reinforcement that might be useful is to have a piece of plywood glued on the back face of the stem as insurance ... it doesn't need to be thick as its function is to reduce the risk of the stem splitting even further.

    But it is really a nicety. just bolting through is quite enough.

    Bolting is the most important thing!

    Michael

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