GIS Build in New Jersey, USA

[davlafont]

Thanks all for the positivity. I'm back on track. I've out most of the small pieces and the first two side pieces. Since I need my "loft" to transfer those sides over, I got to the task of fixing the bottom panel. It helped that my brother was over to commiserate and listen to me methodically explain how I think I went wrong. We both laughed and I set about erasing pencil marks using Paulie's alcohol tip. Yay internet!

[CCBB]

Dave, You've almost caught up to where I am already!

[paulie]

Dave, those seats look great. Can't wait to see them attached to the rest.

Bob, Dave got to see your "what mistakes?" effect live at the Wooden Boat Show. People kept telling me my boat looked good. I kept saying "Can't you see that hunk of blue tape embedded in the epoxy right there? And the inwale spacer that's 10mm off? And the drips in the varnish? And fact that the hull is twisted?"

I only relaxed after I pointed out the hull twist to MIK. He stood back, squinted for a bit, and said, "Okay, if you say so." And then he shrugged. I figured then that it must all be fine after all and stopped apologizing.

I took it out for a paddle last night. After my afternoon of frustration with the mast, I needed to remind myself why I was doing all this. The boat certainly tracked straight enough, so I guess that huge, glaring, horrible twist in the hull isn't hurting anything.

[davlafont]

Dave, You've almost caught up to where I am already!

Should I hit the show circuit with my three seats?

[davlafont]

...As I positioned the batten aft, I noticed how unfair it is. Like an S-curve.

Just thought I'd post the evidence...

[davlafont]

Dave has been a little productive in his geo-bachelorhood*


Here all bulkheads being framed on top of the two side panels with their buttstraps in place.

What have I learned from Callsign222? (...besides watch where you're sailing, not the glowey thingies in the water) Don't be cheap with the buttstrap glue!




In other news, my sail has three of eight sewn rings done and the grommets along the head installed. I did a test lashing today with my eye bolt system.





The holes are plugged with epoxy for a drill-fill-drill method.

Before cutting frames for the center case, I wanted to know exactly how wide to make them. So I purchased some outdoor carpeting ($2 per linear foot and they chopped off two feet for me) based on discussions elsewhere on this forum. Yay internet.



Finally, I feel compelled to remind our southern hemipherian host and friends, that it is gloriously pleasant in New Jersey today.


According to Mr. Boston's this is a Ferrari: One part Amaretto, two parts Dry Vermouth, with a twist on the rocks. A lovely summery libation! Hope Old Man Winter is treating y'all nice-like.






*In American military parlance, being a geographical bachelor is when you're separated from your family for extended periods, usually for training or an "unaccompanied tour" to Korea or somesuch. (Not the same thing as being deployed to war though; that's just called being deployed to war.) My family are all off at my mother-in-law's farm while I slave away for my salary. Life is hard, but sometimes you get to build boats...

[paulie]

Looks like you'll be done with your hull before I'll be done with my mast!

Beautiful work.

I guess I don't have to physically stop by to check on your progress if you keep posting pics. But I might just to share one of those Ferraris with you.

[BobWes]

Nice work, Dave.

Seeing your eye-bolt test lashing reminds me I should take a photo or two of how I attached the throat to the yard just for show and tell.

Nice looking drink, too.

[IanHowick]

Just thought I'd post the evidence...

Hi Dave, the line on the side panels is supposed to be a shallow S curve towards the rear. Neither the bottom panel or the side panel does a strange S thing, but the S curve in the edge of the side panel comes from the way the bottom panel is straightening towards the rear, but the curvature of the side panels is accelerating inwards towards the rear, which makes an S in the edge of the side panels in combination with the flare in the sides. The exact way the lines come together at the stern is Mik's "trade secret", so don't tell anyone, but it's critical to the way the GIS picks up and planes so well, and stays controlable at speed downwind in waves.

I don't like the thinness of the fairing batten you are using - something much stiffer would make it easier to get/keep the lines as fair as possible.

Ian

[davlafont]

Ian, I'm glad you confirm that the true line is not a continuous curve but does have some flare. After I re-did the lines, I noticed it and figured it was due to a "trade secret" of some sort.

I'm not crazy about the batten either, but I rationalized it two ways: 1) I was careful not to exert much pressure on the batten as I drew the pencil line, and 2) I'm not convinced this line has any meaning. MIK has us draw the line, but then cut 20mm wide of it. The side panels wrap around the bulkheads and become fixed into the shape they will be, period. So in the end, the bottom panel can only match what the sides want it to be, no matter what lines I draw. That might be another Trade Secret or maybe it's more of a Dirty Little Secret (TM). Either way, I'm done with that sub-standard batten!

[davlafont]

Spent almost all day outside yesterday, except for some kitchen cleaning in the morning.

Fitting up frames took up the day, although my big goal was to get the hull bottom together. Since the plan calls for the bottom buttstraps to be sized based on the centercase dimensions, I had to make the center case (I know I didn't HAVE to, but that's the kind of guy I am). To get the final dimensions of the centercase I had to accommodate the thickness of the outdoor carpeting I'm including. And as long as I was at it, I incorporated some other forum feedback. I've replace the two frame members fore and aft of the centerboard with hardwood and will use the same wood for the foil's leading and trailing edges. There may still be some dings and dents, but if I can avoid major gouges I'll be happy. I also tightened up the space fore and aft. I ran a centerline down the original space and moved the frames closer equally on both sides of the centerline. There's still some room for play so that the foil can slide in and out without surgical precision.


Finally, I've been dying to make the tiller/rudder box since the tiller's wood came from one of the very first cuts I made back in April. The two halves are now ready for sealing prior to coming together as one.


I guess this is a good time to explain that all these flat parts will be sealed next before going 3D. I just couldn't bear the prospect of taping off all the gluing surfaces to coat everything first. Some of that will be necessary for the sides and the bottom, but I feel like the bulkheads can be coated with frames in place easier and those surfaces that are visible (BH3 aft face, etc.) can be sanded without too much ado despite the frames. So many ways to skin a cat...

Here is an image familiar to many:


Finally, the drink of the day was....


Yes, ice cold water!

Today I'll be cleaning up ooze, trimming pieces flush and beveling as required, and maybe I can move forward on my oars. (the beverage will be beer; I've got that part planned out anyway...)

[SimonLew]

Way to make progress!

I started off masking all of the glue joints while epoxy coating the flat parts then got lazier and lazier and by the end I was not masking off any of them. One hull sid is masked and the other is not. I guess I'll find out if it's a problem when one side falls off. Seriously I don't think it's an issue. Look at it this way, lots of boats have secondary epoxy or even polyester joints in highly stressed areas. Ever seen the assembly process for a Farier Tri? The entire thing is held together with secondary joints in critical areas. So if it's good enough for a 20+knot tri it ough to hold up on the Goat. Just sand the joints with 60grit before bonding and it will be fine.

Looking at the pic of your bottom (the boat's that is....) I wonder about that fishtail shape. That does not look right to me. The hull sides have a funky shape to them, that made me think I had made an error but the bottom is one smooth curve at the transom. At least mine was.

Like you said, as long as you have enough ply there it should not matter much. The only thing I used the hull bottom outline for was to double check that the hull sides were fair once assembled.

[IanHowick]

Hi Dave, when I spoke about the slight S towards the rear, I was talking about the curve in the side panels, not the bottom panels. That 'swallow tail' shape in the bottom panel doesn't look right, hopefully you cut at least 20mm outside the line and can get away with it.

Both the shear line and the chine line in the side panels have a bit of an S shape to them. They're fair curves, I found I could get a reasonably stiff fairing batten to touch every nail along both the shear and chine line. The S shape in 2D disappears when the hull goes 3D and each curve is a nice sweeping monotonic line in 3D. It's worth making sure these side curves are exact, and at least as importantly, the two sides are exactly symmetrical.

It's worth the trouble with accuracy at this point, if the chine line on the side panels is right, the bottom panel goes on with little extra work to make it fit apart from beveling the chine logs.

All the best,

Ian

[davlafont]

Thanks Ian. I will definitely review the side panels' curves and double check their symmetry. I recall that planing them down was difficult because of the s-curve given the length of plane I have.

I think my bottom's swallow tail appearance is partly due to the angle of the photgraph and partly due the how I cut the 20mm excess. That cut was very rough using a circular saw. However, I did double and triple check the plan's measurements and how I lofted them (since I screwed it up the first time). I am pretty sure the aftmost two stations are slightly wider than what a smooth convex curve from the forward stations would lead to. Again, I think the point is moot if the side panels are accurate. I will redouble my efforts to ensure they are.

[davlafont]

I found another unforced error and caught it in time. I didn't interpret the bulk head framing instructions properly and confused BH4's side frames with it's side arms. So I cut the lumber to the size of the side arms, but glued them in the place of the frames. Easy fix: pull saw! I also put a big label on the BH reminding myself to cut new side ams.

A similar thing happened with BH 2 in that I clearly understood the side arms (to be left unattached) but did not recognize the side frames until later.