dewalt black and decker

[racyrabbit]

Hello after some info ,went to the local recycling depot and there was a dewalt saw there so i purchased it , i want to identify it and use it , The previous owner dropped it off and told them was used for rebateing step runners ,it had the motice thing attached still and another with it , no saw blade < So i need to know what size blade for it < It has serial number 10034 ,and model 203800=2 black and decker , dewalt also machine 1501 on another plate , IT runs well ,just cleaned it up doesnt seem to have any play and runs in and out , Any help in identifying it ? Thanks REX

[malb]

There are a lot of different styles of saw from B+D, Dewalt and B+D Dewalt as a merged entity. Photos would help id the unit you picked up, or it's general style etc.

Manuals are generally available online, once the unit is properly identified.

[Sprocket]

Hello after some info ,went to the local recycling depot and there was a dewalt saw there so i purchased it , i want to identify it and use it , The previous owner dropped it off and told them was used for rebateing step runners ,it had the motice thing attached still and another with it , no saw blade < So i need to know what size blade for it < It has serial number 10034 ,and model 203800=2 black and decker , dewalt also machine 1501 on another plate , IT runs well ,just cleaned it up doesnt seem to have any play and runs in and out , Any help in identifying it ? Thanks REX

Is there a CAT or catalog number anywhere on there? You can usually call Dewalt and talk to a technician who can look it up by the serial number if it's still available. I think that model is the same for the 1501, 1503, 1511 and 1513.

[NCArcher]

G'day Rabbit,
You can buy a PDF scan of the manual here for $20 but I'm sure I've seen one for free on the net somewhere. Can't find it now though

[malb]

With a quick glance at a couple of other responses, and a little googling I came up with this post https://www.woodworkforums.com/f221/d...rm-saw-135529/ from about 3 weeks ago. This ID's the saw as a 10" blade radial arm saw from around 1990.

I have an earlier 7740 from the 60's/70's which is a similar 10" model. I have the manuals scanned and could email them to you if you send me a PM with your email address (can't email attachments via the forum mail system.) The manuals cover setting up operation and maintenance, parts, and accessories.

Re the blades, look for 9.25 in or 10inch blades, mine is a 16mm arbour and I guess yours probably would be as well. I run an 8 inch dado set and a set of Triton 9.25 inch in 20, 40, and 60 tooth variants that I bought when GMC/Triton were having clearance sales on eBay prior to the big collapse. I find these do a reasonable job. Other reasonable quality circ saw blades should as well

[Ratbag]

This is all from memory, so is probably wildly inaccurate, but here goes.

DeWalt made lots of Radial Arm saws over the years, and an amazing number of attachments to suit also.

About the time of the apparent vintage of yours, i.e 1980's-90's, there were 3 main series available.

The smallest was a remarkably engineered folding device that could (almost) be carried under one arm, and stowed in a car boot. It was primarily aimed at both the DIY market and site work. As you can imagine, any compromise between DIY and professional work ended up satisfying nobody, and I don't think the model lasted all that long. Nevertheless, a friend bought one new, and it's still going strong some 30 years on! It had a (small) 1hp induction motor, a 250mm blade, and (here I'm guessing) about a 300-350mm crosscut capacity.

The next series was the 1251, 1501 & 1701 models, all with 254mm blades (with 30mm arbors), stronger 1 1/2hp motors but with varying capacities of about 450, 500 & 610 respectively. These machines were trademarked "Powershop" Radial Arm Saws, and I think were developments of an earlier 125 model. The former two were bench mounted devices, the latter coming with a dedicated legstand, which was optional on the other two.

There were also 300mm/2hp models the 8001 and 8101, which were obviously beefed up models of the latter two, with greater depth of cut capacity. I seem to remember that for even greater power, you could option 3hp 3 phase motors on these models also.

There were even bigger models available, too with blades of, from memory, some 350, 400 and 450mm and motors of up to 6hp! These of course, were serious industrial machines, and featured power feed and hydraulic controls, as suited a medium to larger sized furniture establishment.

I have a DW1251 model. It's about an 1988 model, bought new, and still going. There's some important things to note about Radial Arm Saws for the uninitiated:
(a) They're dangerous. Once ubiquitous, they're now almost universally banned from educational and other government institutions as being "beyond the pale" as far as OH&S standards lie. The problem is HOW they cut. It's a climbing cut towards the operator, tempered only by the operator's strength in holding the blade assembly back away from running along the timber towards his chest, and the strength of the return cable and spring (if fitted). They tend to bite, grab and snatch, too, which pulls them out of whack. While also advertised as capable of ripping cuts with hold down fingers and kick back pawls fitted, it's a very messy and dangerous prospect and realistically best not attempted. There's so many easier and safer ways of doing it anyway.

(b) They are capable of an astonishing variety of crosscutting feats, however, such as compound miters, rebating, trenching and grooving. However, with the exception of the latter two cuts, everything else can be done simpler, safer, quicker and with less mess on a modern SCMS.

(c) They are still an excellent machine, and for trenching and grooving unsurpassed, in my opinion. The fact that the bottom arc of the blade is held FLAT for the full width of the cut makes them extremely useful for multiple intricate cuts. For example, I have found it the ideal saw for making old fashioned multi-pane sash windows, something only a masochist would attempt on a SCMS, as the fragile glazing bars can be masking taped together and a dozen or more cut as one, especially those devilishly fragile 1/4" square miter cuts where the glazing bars meet & interlock.

(d) Blade selection is crucial. Because of their "climbing" cut, a negative rake blade is a safety essential, with -5degrees rake recommended. I've found that small timbers like more teeth, with 60-80 being optimum for small section timbers. They are also suitable (but less than a SCMS) for framing/scantling. A 36-40 tooth blade would be well suited to dry hardwood framing, whereas a 60t blade would work for softwood.

(e) Blade size is 250 or 254mm, with the thinnest kerfs preferable, and a 30mm arbor size.

[racyrabbit]

Thanks my email is [email protected], , My saw is missing legs but have just made a set to be put on over weekend , I will now look for blades to suit now i know what size i need , i did try a 300mm or 12 inch blade in the guard and seemed to be right size but if you say it should be a 10 inch will go with that , Thanks REX

[Ratbag]

As I previously mentioned, the 10" 1501 & 12" 8001 models differ in blade, guard & motor size.
The guards are much physically bigger than the blades as they feature gravity guards, and slide down locking hold-downs and on the other side anti kickback pawls for ripping. Maybe some or all of these aren't fitted?
If a 12" blade fits ok, and it's rated for the 2800rpm. of the motor, then there's no pressing reason for the smaller blade, esp. if you have a suitable 12" one anyway. Please ensure, however, that it's a neg., or at the very least a zero rake on the teeth.

[Handyjack]

Had a quick look at the radial arm saw at work. It is a Black & Decker. We only use it as a docking saw although it has the capability to mitre, bevel and trench. Will cut boards up to about 40cm wide. It is attached to a bench which extends both ways.

Years ago the Safety rep had a look at it and virtually banned its use. Reason - the blade does not have any guard and can not be fitted with one.
Yes, I use it but am very aware of the danger and how easy it is to remove a digit when holding timber. The C/B for the GPO is normally off and the D/B door locked.