Another Bed Thread

[Stiebs]

So went out looking for a bed for my daughter. She's only 2, but I only want to buy her one bed to last her many years to come, so looking at a king single. Only found one that I really liked, and just my luck, its discontinued. So I want to see about making one instead.

I've attached a pic of the bed that I like, which is actually very similar to the one in this post.

I'm being tempted to make one. This will be the first large piece of furniture I've attempted, but I believe that I have the skills and (most of) the tools necessary. One thing I am missing is a thicknesser, but I think I should be able to get some suitable dressed timber. Depending on cost, preferably a nice hardwood.

I'm not really one for detailed plans, and tend to make things up as I go along.
So my question out to the forum; given the attached pic and the reference to custos' bed, does this look like a suitable bill of materials to use:

uprights. 90x45
bed-head and foot-end cross members: 90x35
sides: 120x35, with a 90x35 laminated to create a shelf for slats
bed-head and foot-end cap: 70x18 laid flat with a 90x18 on top.
balustrades for head and foot: 70x12 (not sure they're referred to as balustrades on a bed, but I'm sure you get the picture)

My bed (a queen) has 70x35 pine slats. Is this overkill for a king single? Can I get away with something lighter?

(Any other hints, tips and suggestions are much welcomed too!)

Thanks!

[custos]

For the King single you refer to in my post I used 135x32 mm Tas Oak DAR (dressed all round) from Bunnings for all the frame including the uprights. I don't own a thicknesser either but that's no problem. Using the same size for everything gives a nice visual symmetry and also ensures an optimal usage of timber, ie. less wasted off cuts. The vertical slats (you called balustrades) for the foot and headboard are 42x19 mm Tas Oak DAR except for the centre piece which is just there for decoration. To install them I routed out a rebate in the top and bottom rails but you could as easily use dowel, M&T, or whatever your preferred joinery is.

The decorative pieces on top are just 65x19mm Tas Oak. I've made two king singles (one for each child) and a Queen size for my wife and I, using the same style. All are still great and well loved.

The pine slats I used are, I think, 190x19mm. I used the same for the Queen but ran a rail down the middle with a leg right in the centre to prevent the thing from ever sagging. Probably not necessary but it is rock solid. 35mm thick pine slats are definitely overkill for the king singles.

I would encourage you to have a go at making a bed. It's not an overly challenging project for your first large piece but is very satisfying.

[ian]

my queen sized double bed has 100 x 25 (nominal) Tassie oak slats and no centre rail -- no sign of sag
for a single, 19mm thick Tassie oak would be fine

[Stiebs]

Thanks for your reply custos. On reflection 90mm is probably too narrow for the uprights - 135 like you used would be better. I wanted something a bit more substantial from the side, which is why I was thinking 45.

So maybe 135x45 for uprights, and 135x32 for the rails.

[Stiebs]

I just did something I've never actually tried before - drew a 3d model of a project. They're usually rough sketches to work out a bill of materials, and the details in my head until its time to pick up the tools. But I downloaded SketchUp and was surprised how easy it is to use!

Then I worked out what my idea stock sizes were and jotted them down, along with a set of "compromisd" sizes to keep the variety of stock to minimum for easier ordering.

After calling yesterday afternoon, this morning I dropped into Shiver Me Timbers (Recycled Timber Supplies Melbourne, Recycled Timber Melbourne, Timber Supplies - Shiver me Timbers) and Sam there was extremely helpful, and after looking at my "ideal" stock list, said there would be no problem accommodating me. So I've left my list with him, and hopefully I'll get a quote for a stack of spotted gum in the email soon.

Edit: Looks like Sam sent through the order while I was busy typing this post. Cost was within 10% of my guestimate, and he's also going to cut my individual lengths rather than give me long lengths to cut down myself - not that this is an issue for construction, but it makes it a lot easier for me to transport the shorter lengths in the back of the wagon.

[Wongo]

I made a couple of beds for my children a few years ago. You might find this thread useful. Check out how I did the slats and how I attached the legs to the rails.

Don't forget to buy the mattress first before you start building.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/k...arrier-101555/

[Stiebs]

Great pics Wongo, really good to see the detail. I like your dovetailed centre slat, definitely will be stealing that idea. And the cut-out for the nuts. Not sure the inset bolt heads is to my taste, but an idea worth considering though.

There's definitely no danger of those slats breaking, even with kids using the bed as a trampoline!

[Sawdust Maker]

Wongo

How is the mattress holding up?

[JayTas]

I too would encourage you to have a go, it is great fun and very rewarding.

In fact I was in the same boat as you. We could not find a bed that we liked when it came time to get our daughter one, so I ended up making it. And as it turns out it was my first real piece of furniture too. The one that I made is a bit more Shaker style with a bookshelf head board, i can post up some pics if you are interested (if I can figure it out that is).

Anyway I found that the book 'Beds' by Jeff Miller was very helpful. I think that it even has some plans for the style of bed that you want to make, so it may be worth checking out. I found a copy in the local library.

I will also second what others have said about getting the mattress first, you will find that the different brands all have there own ideas about how big a king single is. Or at least go in and order it and when you do take your tape measure and a notebook. You want the mattress to be a fairly close fit so little feet have less chance slipping between the gaps, especially when it gets used as a trampoline .

Best of luck with the project and keep us posted

[Wongo]

Wongo

How is the mattress holding up?

Very well. What is the issue?

[ian]

I found that the book 'Beds' by Jeff Miller was very helpful. I think that it even has some plans for the style of bed that you want to make, so it may be worth checking out. I found a copy in the local library.

another vote for Jeff's book

[Stiebs]

OK, so I have my first build question before I've even picked up the timber (hopefully Tuesday, if I can get to Shivermetimbers before closing).

Looking at my design (https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...ed-model-1.png), you'll see that my vertical slats call for an angled join at the top. The bottom is a straight forward tenon and mortise. But what about the top?

I'm not sure what would be easier and/or better - an angled tenon or an angled mortise? Not having done either before, at a guess I would say the angled tenon would be easier to do.

At a guess, the way I would do an angled mortise is to use the offcut from the angle cut on the cross beam to make a router jig to get the mortise at the right angle. That just seems to fiddly.

And angled tenon I'm guessing would lose some strength, because its cutting across the grain. However the angle will be very slight, and the join in question isn't load bearing at all...

Is there another option I'm not aware of?

Thoughts?

Thanks. Mark.

[Ravensilk]

Anyway I found that the book 'Beds' by Jeff Miller was very helpful. I think that it even has some plans for the style of bed that you want to make, so it may be worth checking out. I found a copy in the local library.

I will also second what others have said about getting the mattress first, you will find that the different brands all have there own ideas about how big a king single is. Or at least go in and order it and when you do take your tape measure and a notebook. You want the mattress to be a fairly close fit so little feet have less chance slipping between the gaps, especially when it gets used as a trampoline .

Best of luck with the project and keep us posted

I made my first furniture piece (a double bed base) long before I knew any real woodworking skills.It was a simple design made with slats. That bed base has been in use for about 20 years by me then handed down to my son. Last weekend I collected it from my son who no longer needs it. The wood is still in very good condition so I am going to strip the paint off it and use it for another project. I made that bed base by getting the mattress first and measuring it so that I knew the base would be a perfect fit.

My next project will be a king single with drawers in the base. I will be doing the same thing with that. I have already gone into the shop and chosen a base which I have the measurements for. But even though I have the measurements for the mattress I want it home before I start my project just to make sure of a good fit.

Also I think I will chase down the book you meantioned.

[ian]

OK, so I have my first build question before I've even picked up the timber (hopefully Tuesday, if I can get to Shivermetimbers before closing).

Looking at my design (https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...ed-model-1.png), you'll see that my vertical slats call for an angled join at the top. The bottom is a straight forward tenon and mortise. But what about the top?

I'm not sure what would be easier and/or better - an angled tenon or an angled mortise? Not having done either before, at a guess I would say the angled tenon would be easier to do.

At a guess, the way I would do an angled mortise is to use the offcut from the angle cut on the cross beam to make a router jig to get the mortise at the right angle. That just seems to fiddly.

And angled tenon I'm guessing would lose some strength, because its cutting across the grain. However the angle will be very slight, and the join in question isn't load bearing at all...

Is there another option I'm not aware of?

Thoughts?

Thanks. Mark.

Mark
go for the angled tenon. as you surmise, the angle is so slight that you wont lose any significant strength.

I'm guessing that you will use a router to cut the mortise.
However, you may wish to consider cutting the tenons by hand -- doing so should be easier than trying to cut them with power tools

[Stiebs]

Thanks for your input Ian. I was thinking of using the router along the long edge of the tenon and doing the short edge by hand.

Another suggestion I had today was to use a biscuit join instead.

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