Small parts boxes

[FenceFurniture]

Over the years I’ve had all sorts of different systems happening for small parts storage, but none of them have been satisfactory. The cases that you can buy, whilst cheap, leave too much air space in the drawers etc. I decided to solve the problem once and for all by custom making some boxes for my particular drawers, which are pedestal drawers from a desk. There are five pedestals, each with two shallow drawers (75mm internal), and a deep drawer which I use for all sorts of other things (even a Circ Saw at one stage). These pedestals are all under my workbench and are full of things that I use all the time for jig making etc. The number of parts on hand has increased dramatically in the last few weeks because of the arrival of a whole stack of Woodpeckers T-Track type parts (which are excellent). I also supplemented from the local hardware, so things were starting to get out of hand.

My aim was too have a little air as possible in the drawer, with a flexible system that stacks well, doesn’t move around much, tip over etc. To stack properly, the sizes have to be multiples of each other, that is 1:1 ratio, 2:1, 3:2 etc. The boxes have one side size in common with the size above it and below it.

This was going to involve a lot of cutting of small pieces of 3mm MDF, so it was important to have a cutting list, and a plan to make it as simple as possible, without waste and to be time efficient. To assist this procedure I wrote a very simple spreadsheet (new version attached, at the bottom) where each size is dependent upon the 1:1 size (the smallest) for its dimensions. That was very easily achieved, and produces an excellent cutting list. To change the sizes altogether I only have to change the 1:1 size and the multiples of the other sizes (3:2 or 3:4 etc). The thickness of the wall also controls the sides dimensions. What I’m saying here is made much clearer by looking at the spreadsheet. I have since upgraded the spreadsheet to give me tallies of all the similar sizes and the number of strips of each width required (after deducting the parts on hand and any uncut strips). It then tells me the sheet size needed. If the number of sheets creeps over to be just above a whole number (you can’t buy 1.1 sheets) then I can simply adjust the number of boxes of a particular size to get it just below a whole number. It is also very easy to swap the sheet dimensions to see if a better fit results, and the difference can be quite surprising. I have to make another round of boxes, so will test run the spreadsheet on that (the first drawer gobbled up the lot!)

And so to cutting. I used my shop-made Table Saw to cut the strips, and a drop saw to dock them to size. I made moulds from MDF for each size, heavily waxed so glue wouldn’t grab. Thin bead of Titebond II on the base, and then clamp the sides on with the mould in place so that significant pressure can be applied. I have four Bessey bar clamps and I found that by the time I had completed all four sets the first was ready to go to the next stage – gluing the ends on. And so it went on. Sand the base to remove glue squeeze-out , a quick whip through the table saw to ensure correct and consistent height and then sand the edges and they’re done.

Removing the moulds was slightly tricky. After the first lot I drilled a through-hole in each mould because they form a vacuum. Another hole to temporarily put in a screw so I cab grab with a pair of pliers. Some needed a bit of a tap with dead blow mallet, and some needed to be pulled out with the aid of a vice. Only one out of the 120 that I made got stuck with glue, but I managed to get it out intact. Again, it is particularly important to hold by the ends when removing so that after the mould comes out I don’t crush the sides in. Often they make a “pop” when the mould comes out – testimony to a tight fit.

They stack really well, and I can have pretty much any combination I want in the drawer. They are very space efficient – I compacted almost two heavily populated drawers into one. They appear to be quite strong, but I try to handle them by the ends which are “capped” over the base and sides. I can grab up to six at a time from removal from the drawer to get to the lower level.

I'm a happy chappie!

Cheers, FF


Clamping the sides showing the moulds in position. It is important to clamp them down to prevent buckling, and subsequent "unclamping".



Clamping the end caps:



A clamped Spirit Level fence to push the components against. It can be removed as soon as the boxes have been clamped.



Two of the moulds, and the boxes they produce:



The five shapes that I made. I need to produce a very small 1:1 (about 30mm cube) as these will liberate even more space in the drawer.


Stacked as a matrix (as they will be in the drawer):



The end result: upper level of top drawer (labelled "JiggyJig Parts"):



The lower level of the top drawer - not particularly diifcult to get to either (I just need to memorise what's there and where - takes a couple of weeks)

[coffenup]

great idea
thanks for the ideas & spreadsheet
regards Michael

[Christos]

Looking very organised.

[BobL]

. . . . . (I just need to memorise what's there and where - takes a couple of weeks) . . . . .

Crikey, you have a good memory. Having two layers of such little boxes would drive me barmy and I would be forever lifting most of the top layer out to see where something that was actually on the top layer was underneath.

Other than that, excellent work I must remember the mold method for the future, well maybe not - because my memory is so poor

[FenceFurniture]

Today, I ran all 1,164 edges across a 1/16" Roundover bit in the router table. It's made them much more comfortable to handle, and because they're a neat fit in the draw it's made them easier to get in and out.

[jemijona]

Crikey, you have a good memory. Having two layers of such little boxes would drive me barmy and I would be forever lifting most of the top layer out to see where something that was actually on the top layer was underneath.

Maybe make the bases out of perspex so that you can see through the top boxes to the bottom boxes. Might not be perfect, but might be of some benefit.

[FenceFurniture]

Yes, you could, but only useful if the top box has very little in it.

[desert oak]

I like it.

[artme]

And I thought I was getting things sorted!!

Great work sire!!

[FenceFurniture]

Cheers chaps!

[Sawdust Maker]

tidy shed = disorganised mind

[FenceFurniture]

tidy shed = disorganised mind

I, arr.... No that won't work

You should.... hmm, too insulting

Damn it! Just spent all smoko trying to think of a suitable comeback, but my thoughts are everywhere atm.

[wun4us]

Don't need time to think of retorts, FF, use more wisely to dream up another magical idea.

Great space in a smaller area.

[Old farmer]

Thanks to all you coves for this great thread which I have just come across.

[Robson Valley]

A creative mess is better than idle tidyness.