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16th November 2011, 05:01 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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We can I get steel for Stanley 66 blades
I only have 1 blade for my stanley 66 beading cutter and would like to make a few more.
Is there somewhere I can buy small quantities of new steel, and what would I ask for?
Is there a source of scrap/recycled steel that would be suitable? What should I keep my eyes peeled for?
Clint
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16th November 2011, 05:11 PM #2
I've found that steel strapping for timber packs is the perfect width. Hard enough because the blade is fairly well supported.
Old band saw blades would work as well.
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16th November 2011, 08:55 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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If you are not prepared to experiment, both Lee Valley & Lie Neilsen sell part sets of those blades as well as blank blade.
I've seen the LV blade sets at Carbatec, and I believe LN Australia have the LN version too.
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16th November 2011, 08:58 PM #4
You could purchase blades from LN. The LV ones are on the small size but can be used at a push.
Alternately, make your own from old 3/4" bandsaw blades. I keep a rolled up one jyst for this purpose ...
Improving the #66 Hand Beader
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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16th November 2011, 09:50 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for that, I am willing to experiment.
I would not have thought that strapping would have been sufficiently rigid, I just threw some out.
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16th November 2011, 10:08 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Derek, great article, much appreciated
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17th November 2011, 08:44 AM #7
Clint, my favourite source for scratch-stock blades (& all sorts of other uses) is my growing pile of off-cuts from the saws I made from the floor-scraper blades from Bunnings (after BobL drew our attention to them as a good source of raw material). They cost a bit over $12 each, & one would give you enough metal for two lifetimes' worth of cutters. The steel is 0.8mm thick, & plenty stiff enough for the purpose. You CAN cut it with a hacksaw, but it will take the teeth off completely after about 100mm or less (& set your teeth on edge with the screeching!). Best way to cut it is with a 1mm cutoff wheel, after clamping between two flat pieces of steel. That keeps the material you are cutting nice & cool. It is good tough steel, but easy enough to shape with files & grinder. I started using the scraps for various shapes of card scraper, & they are excellent in that role, too.
I've also used bits for all sorts of other projects, like this large trysquare and small bevel gauge, and it seems to have been a good choice, so you can use half of a blade for something else, & still have your endless supply of scraper blades. I should start a thread & see how many ways people have found to use this stuff....
Cheers,IW
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17th November 2011, 04:04 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Thats a great idea, I had to get some ply so I went to the Bunnies Tools shop and got a couple of 14 inch floor scrapers for $12.80 each
I am going to the TTTG tool making workshop on 27th and will see if I can get one of them guillotined to save on hacksaw blades and discs
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17th November 2011, 07:32 PM #9
Good-o. If you have access to a suitable guillotine, that should make it very simple. You probably know this, but the guillotine can work-harden the edges a little - nothing serious, but it might make the file sit up & take notice for a few strokes as you clean up the cut edge.
So you bought TWO blades? Man, you must be planning on living to a very ripe old age.......
Cheers,IW
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18th November 2011, 06:57 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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More likely that early onset senility will prevent me from remembering where to get another one if ever I need it. so better lay in a spare
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19th November 2011, 08:00 PM #11
Hmmm, I can certainly relate to that.
Just a note of warning - make sure you slather the 'spare' with some oil or whatever your favourite anti-rust compound happens to be, if you plan on storing it for some time. Despite the blueing, this stuff will rust like crazy when the humidity gets high. I had a 'spare' sitting on an open shelf for several months during our (wetter than usual) summer, this year, and when I went to use it about a month ago, found the exposed surface had rust on it. I thought it would come off easily with phosphoric acid, & it did, but left part of the surface lightly pitted. I'm amazed at how much effort it takes to polish off marks that can't be more than a fraction of a thou deep!
Cheers,IW
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