Steel sheds... what's the difference?

[BobL]

If you have the option, go for 3m over 2.7. You'll never regret having it too high, you can always use a ladder. It would also mean you can swing long items around without hitting your lights. My fluoros have wire mesh over them, and I've tested it a few times. Very handy to have that wire protecting the tubes.

I agree about getting as much height as you can. The old part of my shed is only 2.2 - 2.4 m high which doesn't even leave room to swing a cat. The new part is as high as I can go (2.4 to 2.7) according to council rules but even that is too low. The problem with using the ceiling for storage is the stuff gets in the way of lighting so I am going with LED strip lighting below the stored materials.

[SAISAY]

We have just had a Totalspan shed put in. 9x4 m. 1 rollerdoor, 1 access door and a window. Shed is fully lined with aircell roof and walls. Category 5 cyclone rating. Solid as houses. All included such as concrete slab, plans, council permit, electrician etc. it cost us 25K. We are very happy with it. Can't wait to get all our stuff out of it and into the new house, then start to outfit the workshop. Before the cyclone we had a 6x4 m shed and it soon proved to be too small for all the machinery. Unfortunately that is the largest the council will allowe us to have on our block so it will have to do. Cheers Wolffie

[mthuvirgo]

12Mx18Mx4.8M for Open Front Machinery Shed with 22000$ offer price in Rock Solid Sheds Company.
What do you think about? Is it cheap or expensive?

[Onezero]

Well the shed is well and truely in now. Now power yet though. Dad the sparky has had other things on!

My next project is some wall lining and shelving. Although I think cupboards might be easier and more cost effective with the tops of them being a good spot for larger items like the 6 shade sails I am going to use one day Will post some photos when I get it looking good!

[BobL]

Well the shed is well and truely in now. Now power yet though. Dad the sparky has had other things on!

My next project is some wall lining and shelving. Although I think cupboards might be easier and more cost effective with the tops of them being a good spot for larger items like the 6 shade sails I am going to use one day Will post some photos when I get it looking good!

Shade sails don't really need premium space. I keep mine under the house and put them up dusty and just hose them down. The one we put up 12 years ago is just now starting to break down at along one of the seams. The two others are OK.

[Beetle Shirt]

Do the floor sealing before the wall lining. I did it the other way around, so skipped the acid wash prep step for the floor sealing because I didn't want it all over the ply lining. Bad idea. Floor sealant is lifting in many places.

My shelves have worked out very well, using 4x3" treated pine posts (because I had them) and yellowtongue sheeting, held up with 50x25 RHS on 1.5m centres. I can climb up the shelves without any noticeable flexing - mission accomplished. Check my shed thread for pics if you're interested.

[BobL]

Do the floor sealing before the wall lining. I did it the other way around, so skipped the acid wash prep step for the floor sealing because I didn't want it all over the ply lining. Bad idea. Floor sealant is lifting in many places.

Are you talking new concrete floor? If so floor should be left for a minimum of 12 weeks before sealing with paint otherwise it will come up - also no acid wash should be needed if it is new concrete. I did my walls while I was waiting for the floor to cure. No problems with the floor some 14 months later.

My shelves have worked out very well, using 4x3" treated pine posts (because I had them) and yellowtongue sheeting, held up with 50x25 RHS on 1.5m centres. I can climb up the shelves without any noticeable flexing - mission accomplished. Check my shed thread for pics if you're interested.

I wish I had room for something like that.

[Beetle Shirt]

Wasn't new by the time I got to seal it, no, but it had cured quite thoroughly. Would have been several months. I figured the acid wash wasn't really necessary on a new floor too, but something's definitely missing in the prep steps.
The shelves are great, but the shed's too small. I went with a 6x3 because it was the biggest I could do without a DA (under 20sqm doesn't need one here). My original plan was up to a 6x9 before the no-DA idea came along. Wish I'd gone with the DA.

[ESBSheds]

As the other guys have said, there's more to it than just materials and not every shed is the same. (I'm speaking as someone who's been in the industry over 11 years, my father even longer)
Lot of really good comments above from others.
In our view there's a few things you can ask to better compare sheds:
1.the size of the frames - C Section size and thickness; and the sheeting thickness (check the BMT and TCT)
2. Where the steel is coming from - is it genuine Australian Bluescope or from overseas somewhere
3. Is the engineering current and specific to your site's conditions
4. Can you call them for assistance when you're putting the shed up
5. The weight of the shed - this can be a big indicator between the good and not so good

and make sure the shed is big enough for what you want now and in the future.
(never had anyone say their shed was too big, but a few later on wished their shed was bigger...)
That includes the height (wall heights on sheds are usually measured from the outside) - it's gotta be workable and comfortable inside.
With insulation the 2 types we found work well is the glass blanket (some find it itchy to install) and the Aircell (Insulbreak works better than insulshed), and the cross ventilation's a good idea. You can also put in whirlybirds.

Anyway, hope your project's gone well.

Cheers