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  1. #1
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    Oct 2009
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    Default Steel sheds... what's the difference?

    Have gone and had a look at a few garage/sheds today by Ranbuild and Fairdinkum + another mob that look exactly the same as the other two!

    Price for what I want is about the $5k mark inc insulation (aircell)
    5x6 mtr, single roller door, 1 window.

    Now I look on the interweb and see this DiscountSheds.com.au

    For $4k 6x6 double roller door, PA door.

    I don't need a high wind rated garage.

    So why the difference? They are all made from Bluescope steel, and I assume the discount one is the same BMT etc and the others.

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  3. #2
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    Aug 2011
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    bilpin
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    Default

    Check the frame engineering, both design and material gauge ie Thicness and size of c sections. If comparable, I guess it comes down to price.

  4. #3
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    When I looked around at sheds I notice all the cheap ones used thin pressed galvanized steel for everything and I got the feeling that if I hung much off the walls or roof they would collapse like a house of cards. If you are not planning on hanging more than a few lights off the roof then they're probably OK but I wanted to store stuff like steel angle, 6" ducting, galvanized compressed air lines, a HEPA air filter and other assorted crap in my roof so I was glad I got one with welded steel angle trusses and solid steel posts.

    The shed is only one of the costs of setting up a comfortable shed. Don't forget to factor in stiff like insulation, lining, electrics etc. BTW I'd strongly recommend two doors for cross flow ventilation.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Nsw
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    Check the frame engineering, both design and material gauge ie Thicness and size of c sections. If comparable, I guess it comes down to price.
    The big brands are made from large c section screwed together, the discount shed appears to come with very small (1/4 the size) c section purlins etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    When I looked around at sheds I notice all the cheap ones used thin pressed galvanized steel for everything and I got the feeling that if I hung much off the walls or roof they would collapse like a house of cards. If you are not planning on hanging more than a few lights off the roof then they're probably OK but I wanted to store stuff like steel angle, 6" ducting, galvanized compressed air lines, a HEPA air filter and other assorted crap in my roof so I was glad I got one with welded steel angle trusses and solid steel posts.

    The shed is only one of the costs of setting up a comfortable shed. Don't forget to factor in stiff like insulation, lining, electrics etc. BTW I'd strongly recommend two doors for cross flow ventilation.
    I want to hang stuff from the roof like a false ceiling type thing to store wood, xmas decorations, other crap. Very good point re ventilation. It's a trade off though because if I have another door I loose a wall for storage.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
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    3,339

    Default

    Discounted sheds also use lightweight fencing sheets for their roofs, if you stand on it to finish screwing the sheets down, they bend even on the flutes. DAMHIKT.
    Kryn

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Toowoomba and Online at www.shedblog.com.au
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Onezero View Post
    The big brands are made from large c section screwed together, the discount shed appears to come with very small (1/4 the size) c section purlins etc.


    I want to hang stuff from the roof like a false ceiling type thing to store wood, xmas decorations, other crap. Very good point re ventilation. It's a trade off though because if I have another door I loose a wall for storage.
    The major connections in the big brands tend to be bolted. Generally speaking unless you request it even big brand sheds engineering is such that the roof is not designed for additional loading other than occasional foot traffic and heavy wind and rain. Now having said that...it seems that these big brand sheds can handle a fair bit of extra load as so many people do load them up and manage to get away with it.

    If I was going to line a roof, hang stuff off it, build a mezz floor etc, I would go with a brand that has bolted main frame, substantial connections like apex and knee plates that have large gussets the same width of the columns and rafters and .42 BMT roof sheeting as a minimum.

    Connections (method, strength, overlaps) Tiedowns (techniques/materials) Upto date site specific engineering and the customer service are what I consider important in a shed.
    Steel Sheds in Australia Helpful information for people looking to buy, build, extend or renovate a steel shed. www.shedblog.com.au

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Nsw
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shedblog Au View Post
    The major connections in the big brands tend to be bolted. Generally speaking unless you request it even big brand sheds engineering is such that the roof is not designed for additional loading other than occasional foot traffic and heavy wind and rain. Now having said that...it seems that these big brand sheds can handle a fair bit of extra load as so many people do load them up and manage to get away with it.

    If I was going to line a roof, hang stuff off it, build a mezz floor etc, I would go with a brand that has bolted main frame, substantial connections like apex and knee plates that have large gussets the same width of the columns and rafters and .42 BMT roof sheeting as a minimum.

    Connections (method, strength, overlaps) Tiedowns (techniques/materials) Upto date site specific engineering and the customer service are what I consider important in a shed.
    Thanks Shedblog, all things to consider. I can't see myself hanging a huge amount of stuff off the roof, in saying that I don't want to rule it out in the future as I think this is my only opportunity to get myself a shed this size.

  9. #8
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onezero View Post
    Thanks Shedblog, all things to consider. I can't see myself hanging a huge amount of stuff off the roof, in saying that I don't want to rule it out in the future as I think this is my only opportunity to get myself a shed this size.
    A mate of mine bought a cheap 6 x 6 m garage and over a period of many years has put a lot of stuff above his head. Because the shed is so flimsy he started adding Acro props to supporting the roof, first 2 and now he has 6 props. I'm waiting for a stiff breeze to blow the whole thing over like a house of cards.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
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    82
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    530

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    A mate of mine bought a cheap 6 x 6 m garage and over a period of many years has put a lot of stuff above his head. Because the shed is so flimsy he started adding Acro props to supporting the roof, first 2 and now he has 6 props. I'm waiting for a stiff breeze to blow the whole thing over like a house of cards.

    Ouch!! Hope your mate isn't inside when it comes down......

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Perth, ocean reef
    Age
    57
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    79

    Default ranbuild sheds

    Onezero, if you are looking for a serious shed, well constructed, you cant go past the ranbuild company, i recently have built my own ranbuild shed, i had it custom made for my reqiurements, it was 13m long by 5m wide with 2.7m walls and a pitch of 23 degrees, everything came from the manufacterer spot on, the service was brilliant, nothing was too hard and the follow up service when i was having difficulties reading some of the plans for the construction was brilliant, i underestimated the size of it when i was building it, its now known by the neigbors as the aircraft hanger when people ask for directions to my place lol.
    The sheds are rated for high winds, all the shoes are concreted into the floor, no ramset or chemical bolts, high tensile rated bolts, even the tech screws come colour coded for the steel very professional.
    definately have a look at them, if you wish i can send you photos of the shed by email in its construction phases.

  12. #11
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    Apr 2011
    Location
    Brisbane (Manly West)
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    18

    Default Sheds - Titan

    I have a Titan shed and I am generally happy with it. I did a lot of electrics and plumbing in the shed post the build and added insulation in the roof and free standing shelving in the back. Things I would do if I was a rebuild the shed - Cross flow ventilation - I have no window or doors other then the roller doors on the front (Because it is built on the boundary) and it get stiffling at times and I use a big fan to push the air about, and it has nowhere that I can attach any sort of hoist/block etc for lifting. I would probably line the inside too. But on the plus side - height is very important - I have 3m to the gutters and the roof is 4m high - makes for easy swinging stuff about.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Berowra, Sydney
    Posts
    171

    Default

    Might be too late, but I would suggest scrapping the window in favour of a second door.

    I have a Ranbuild 3x6m job, that I am happy with. There was a bit of stuffing around with the build because the owner moved from Sydney to a NSW town (Armidale?) during the process, so some things didn't happen - no sign of the auto rolla-door opener, but I don't miss it. I'd go with them again though. It's solid enough to hang a motorcycle from the centre rafter without any noticeable movement, the aircell insulation is brilliant, and the assembly instructions and included fasteners are good. You do need to look at the instructions carefully though, and you will want a cordless drill for the Tek screws. My kit had over 1000 screws in it.

    I put 12mm 5ply wall linings in it, and am glad I did. If I did it again I would probably go 19mm for the extra strength, but 12mm works.

    Seal the concrete base of your shed, it makes life much easier. Use a light colour. Pay attention to the instructions for the sealer, and use the acid prep wash. I didn't, and it's lifting.

    I used 8 x 40W 1200mm fluoro lights in mine - love it. Heaps of light. I put 4 in each (3 x 3m) bay, with a switch for each bay. Works very well.

    What would I change? Dump the window. I have a rolladoor on one end, a window on a side nearest the rolladoor, and a door at the end of the same side as the window (facing the house) for cross ventilation. If I did it again I'd keep the door because the cross ventilation works well, but dump the window because I lose too much wall space. It also allows people to see in too. The other thing I'd do is raise the roof. I have 2.4m walls, and am finding myself hanging stuff up to get it out of the way. 2.7m or 3.0m walls would be much better for this, but would make lining the walls more difficult.

    The only thing you can be sure of is that the slab looks huge, the frame looks big, the walls are large, the empty shed is ok and when you put stuff inside it is small, and gets tinier with each new item. I went with 6 x 3 because I could do up to 20 sqm without a DA. I'm regretting it - the DA would be worthwhile.

    Have fun!

  14. #13
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    Apr 2011
    Location
    Pakenham, Victoria
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    350

    Default Re: Steel sheds... what's the difference?

    Hi

    Must agree with the positive feedback on Ranbuild. I jut had a 9 x 7 put up and am VERY impressed by e build quality.

    Danny

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Berowra, Sydney
    Posts
    171

    Default

    About the only thing I wasn't very impressed with was the "personal access door" - it's pretty flimsy. Everything else is very solid.

    Wish I had a 9 x 7 ...

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Nsw
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    Default

    Not too late, havent ordered anything just yet. Still trying to decide what size to go for etc!

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