First project - workbench

[javali]

I recently got interested in woodworking, and discovered that before I can build anything I need a decent workbench. I do not know if this counts as decent, but it is much better than saw horses. Leg and end vices will be added soon.

The first photo is the workbench. The second is the workbench with the cutting, measuring and marking tools used. You can also see my assisstance, with whose help I managed to finish this three weeks project in just a little less than 2 months. Third photo is with boring, planing and smoothing tools, and the fourth is with additional clamping and holding devices, and the dust extraction system.

The design is based on one of the workbenches in Sam Allen's book.

I would like to thank all the forum members. I would not have reached this far without the information you have posted.

[vsquizz]

Java, I like the dust extraction system. Have you thought about vices, and I don't mean the drinking, smoking and fraternisation.

If thats your first workbench then very well done.

Cheers

[ozwinner]

I would like to thank all the forum members. I would not have reached this far without the information you have posted.

Hey!! Dont blame us!!

Al

[javali]

Have you thought about vices

I am now working on a leg vice - see the holes in the left front leg. I also have an old wooden screw I picked somewhere, which I plan to use for an end vice, but I still have to figure out how to mount it.

[routermaniac]

well done, I agree with you, working on saw horses is way too much work ), I still havent got a decent bench b/c there simply is no space, but I mange somehow as most of my woodworkign is with powetools.

[doublejay]

Javali,

That is a great looking bench. Any chance of getting a copy of the plans?

[reeves]

looks pretty decent to me..well done mate.
Rimads me o should make a decent one.

cheeers

[BobR]

Great looking bench Well done. Better than the one I am using at the moment.

Bob

[ryanarcher]

Great Job! You'll never regret the time you spent on your workbench. It'll be your most frequently used tool in the shop! have a good one
-ryan

[Five Thumbs]

Javali

Well done. A solid looking bench which should give years of good service. A constructive comment - I started learning woodwork (in the 1950s) at a technical high school, Balmain Christian Brothers, where Brother Owens taught us to always lie a plane on its side. The reason. To make sure we did not chip the blade if we plonked it down on a stray piece of metal.

Cheers

5T

[javali]

Thanks everyone.

Five Thumbs: Thanks for the comment. I usually lie the planes on their sides. I pulled the blades all the way in for the photo.

Doublejay: I did not use a plan for the workbench. This way I evolve the design instead of making mistakes. Here are some instruction on how to build a similar bench:

Step 1: Make a bench top.
I used three pieces of 45x190x1900, which I edged glued. After squaring and joining the top (without the apron) is 551 mm wide. There is no need to flatten or smooth the top now. You just need to know its width. Unless you know you are not going to make mistakes, I recommend not to glue the apron at this stage. You can change the dimentions of the top. Recommended width is around 600mm. Length can be between 1200 and 3000mm.
Other options for the bench top are buying a few particle boards at the size you like, glue them to get enough thickness, and cover with hardboard. You can also buy a laminated board at bunnings, but it is only 33mm thick, is expensive, and is of a very low quality. If you want a better top, you can use about 15 2x4s (45x90mm) and glue them face to face.

Step 2: Get an apron.
Mine is Tasmanian Oak, 19x140x1900mm. You can chose anything similar, or not use an apron at all. The size you use depends on what vice you want to use on the front of the bench, and how you intend to set it.

The width of the workbench is the width of the top you made in step 1 plus the thickness of the apron. In my case it is 570mm.

Step 3: Make legs.
I recycled old pergola posts, and they are 89x89x760 mm. Use any similar size. The length of the legs plus the thickness of of the top is the height of the workbench. The recommended hight is the distance from the floor to your wrists when standing up, with the arms at your side.

Step 4: Make a rebate for the apron in the two front legs. (See attached diagram)
In my case it is 19mm deep and 95 mm long. The depth is the thickness of the apron, and the length is the width of the apron less the thickness of the top. This aligns the top of the apron with the top of the bench. You may want to make the rewbate short by 2 or 3 mm, to ensure that the apron top is abve the bench top. It is easier to take off material from the top of the apron than to add to it. (In my case I already knew that the top would be about 42 mm thick. 42+95=137mm which is 3 mm short of the apron width)

Step 5: Make strechers.
The strechers are made of 45x90mm pine. Short strechers length is the width of the bench less twice the thickness of the legs. You may make them a bit shorter, in which case the back legs will not align with the back of the top. In my case they are 392mm long (570-2x89). The long strechers should be around 1000mm long (longer if you use a long top).

Step 6: Cut grooves in strechers
The strechers attach to the legs using "threaded rod" joints. A threaded rod passes in a groove in the strecher, and through the legs. The strechers are held in place by four dowels (two on each side). You need to cut two grooves in each strecher. One for the threaded rod, and one for the shelf or the benchtop. Two strecher patterns are used to avoid threaded rod collision inside the leg. (See diagram.) I used pattern 1 for the top short strechers, and for the bottom long strechers. Pattern 2 is used for the other strechers. The grooves are 10 mm wide and deep, and are 17.5 mm from the nearest edge. The grooves always face the inside of the bench frame.
Also, now is the time to make the dowels holes in the ends of the strechers. I used 10mm dowels. The holes are in the middle of the width of the strechers, centered at 25 and 55mm from the top.

Step 7: Drill legs.
You first have to decide on the position of the strechers relative to the legs. The top strechers should be aligned with the top of the leg, and the bottom strechers should be about 200mm from the floor (210 in my bench). I set most of the strechers at the middle of the thickness of the legs. The only exception is the front top strecher which I aligned with the rebate at the top of the legs. I did this to provide some backing to the apron. I do not know how important this is.
You should start by drilling counterbores (see diagram - part C) for the washers and nuts. I used 3/8" threaded rods. The washers were 1" wide, so I used a 26mm flat bit for them. I made them 13mm deep, and it seems the right depth. Follow by drilling 10mm holes for the threaded rod to the other side of the leg (diagram - part B). Also mark and drill the dowels holes (diagram part A). I used those little dowel markers to align the dowel holes with those at the ends of the strechers.

Step 8: Try building the substructure.
If you were careful, everything should fit, and you should get a solid structure.

Step 9: Make features
Take the substructure apart. Drill holes for leg vice if you plan to use one, drill dog holes in the legs if you want to. Prepare shelf (mine is 9mm ply cut to 456x1064mm, with a small square of 32x32mm cut of each corner - to fit the legs in. I also had to taper the underside of the edges of the shelf to get a nice fit to the grooves.)

Step 10: Finish substructure
I used Organoil Danish Oil. I do not know how good it is. It looks nice for now. You are not going to glue anything, so you can put a finish on all the parts.

Step 11: Build the substructure
USE NO GLUE. Construct everything, tighten the nuts, and cut the protruding ends of the threaded rods.

Step 12: Flatten underside of the bench top.
Make sure it sits nice on top of the strechers, and does not rock.

Step 13: Glue apron to top.
Align the top with the rebates in the front legs, and put apron in the rebates. Do not forget to put a nonstick baking paper on the substructure. You do not want to glue the top to the substructure.

Step 14: Plane top
It helps to clamp it to the substructure. If you use power tools you might have to do this before step 13.

Step 15: Drill dog holes
Mine are 165 mm apart. You have to be careful not to drill them through the threaded rods. Measuring twice might not be enough.

Step 16: Smooth and finish top.
You do not have to smooth the underside, but do not forget to finish it the same way you finish the top. You do not want it to warp.

Step 17: Attach top to substructure.
You do that with 10 clips (see diagram). These are screwed to the underside of the top, with the tongue fitting into the grooves in the strechers. The clips are about 70mm long, 50mm wide, and 25mm thick.


Good luck.

[Bubinga]

Beautiful! If I had that, I would oil it up and use it for furniture. You would laugh if you saw my bench. I built it from left over timbers from my home construction.
Rick

[HappyHammer]

Beautiful! If I had that, I would oil it up and use it for furniture. You would laugh if you saw my bench. I built it from left over timbers from my home construction.
Rick

Show us it Rick have a look at some of these....

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...3&page=1&pp=15

BTW Javali nice bench !

HH.

[Bubinga]

Show us it Rick have a look at some of these....

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...3&page=1&pp=15

BTW Javali nice bench !

HH.

Okay, here it is.

[ozwinner]

And of course you have the most important item of toolery, a fridge!!
Well done......

Al