CNC controller in PC case , black out proof ?

[SawDustSniffer]

some parts finally showed up , got my BOBs ( have only mounted 1 ) , VFD , and the speed controller that go's between the BOB and VFD

the box so far , VFD is connected up
photo1

a close up of the 12 volt snail fan to get the VFD to breath a bit better , the amount of air these little blowers can push is amazing ,
photo2



started to wire up the bob , all the outputs are done , have to decide weather to put the Speed controller on this BOB , or use the 3 left over out puts for the solid state relays , i mounted an aluminium shield between the stepper controller and the bob since they were close , but will change the plate into a box to cover the 2 BOBs and speed controller cards


photo3


this is the speed controller , i hate it when they send you a part with no documentation , and it was from USA , not china , looks like the no documentation is spreading
i might even use the "Phone line " connection to run the spindle , so the PC's bus line dosnt have to pulse to drive the spindle
photo4

???? no documentation , misprinted URL's are a great help , no part number on the board ??? whats the world coming to ????? what looks like www.?thc4pc.com is really www.cnc4pc.com , after 1 hour of searching i found what i was looking for WIRING DOCUMENTS http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/C6R6_User_Manual.pdf

lol found the part number , lol , its " c6 " lol search that in google and you get 159million results to look through ( idiots ) and the "c6" is printed right next to a capacitor , as in "capacitor 6 "

[SawDustSniffer]

just been to the post office and looks like more stuff has arrived , might be able to get this thing running again this week end

while i was thinking about how to "black out "proof a cnc controller , i figged all i need is a UPS for the stepper controller and BOBs , and put a reference 5volt as an input to Mach3 to tell it when the power go's off ( enable input ) so it can shut down and go into pause mode while the power is off ( UPS on pc as well) , im hoping the spindle will have enough momentum to finish cutting what the PC has in its buffer ,

so i needed a 5 volt source from the second power cable in and found a real small 5 volt PSU ?????? how can they make something like this for $8 ??????
4amp at 5volts for 8 bucks ????

[Bob Willson]

Let this be a lesson to you then. Next time, purchase Aus from Peter Homann and/or AusXmods.

Everything they sell, they back up and give great service on. AND they have proper documentation as well. Not written in Chinglish.

Bob Willson

[Bob Willson]

so i needed a 5 volt source from the second power cable in and found a real small 5 volt PSU ?????? how can they make something like this for $8 ?????? 4amp at 5volts for 8 bucks ????

Because there is F all in the way of components and they make them by the million in China for about 20cents each.

Do you remember the old Commodore 64 computer? A games machine really. that sold here and other places for about $600. It was made in USA for less than $6. All the rest was profit for various distributors along the way.

Bob Willson

[SawDustSniffer]

Let this be a lesson to you then. Next time, purchase Aus from Peter Homann and/or AusXmods.
Bob Willson

i looked on AusXmods page but they were sold out , i just went through the links on the VFD set-up thread , lol ,
i beleived i was in an Australian store when i bought the board , lol , didnt find out it was USA until Payment was requested
i will try to purchase Australian if is its less than 2x the price , just because of the overnight shipping

shh , the Commodore 64 will show my age , yes i owned one as a kid , and an atari pong , there collectors items now , they have the 1971's intel's 4004 chip set , the first IC( pong) white 4004 chips in frames sell for $2000 , the second edition were black $400(1972)

[SawDustSniffer]

at a stage where now i have to plug it in and test what ive done , all the solid state relays are just connected up to the 12 volt supply for now , so there on all the time , the small 5volt PSU hasn't been hooked up , and none of the front case inputs are connected ,

but enough is connected to get it to run and test , or let the "magic smoke" out, we all know all electronics run on magic smoke , let too much magic smoke out and electronics dont work any more

all the outputs of Port 1 are used , i connected up the speed controller board to the bob , but havent given it 12 volts yet , ill get the spindle to spin ( test it ) first

will also start on a home for the CNC , was thinking an enclosed cupboard , a bit of extra protection from water when cyclones blow water under the house , walls in a shed are way too hot up here , so a cupboard made from sold core doors ( free from work ) should weigh over 250kg and some dead locks should slow down the thieves

edit : it works , now ill make the cupboard

[SawDustSniffer]

so after getting it running and having a play , i changed my mind , any one could walk off with it the way its set up , no walls in my shed ( under the house ) , too hot to have walls up here

so a heavy as , sold cabinet is needed , it just happens i replace doors for NT housing and have been collecting solid core 920 wide doors for a year now ( make great benches )

this is the start of my new home for my cnc , 2200mm tall 2040 wide , 900 deep , the lower part will have 4 doors ,

the centre will have a box to house the fuse box , monitor, keyboard ,mouse , switches , oh and the cnc machine ,with a sold core door + 2 dead locks ,i have some XF falcon station wagon rear door gas struts that will hold it open
still have to decide on one door opening the hole area , or a swing door for the PC area , and a top hinged door with double glazing for the CNC area , i plan on setting up a mist cooler and i heard the mist is quite foul once it spreads( ?? any input ??) , would also keep the MDF dust contained ( fuel air mix is a worry )

the top part has 3 draws , the front plate will join them all together , and thats my electronics area , ( upside down draw )

lol so far i have used 10 doors @ 30kg each ( 300kg) and will still use anouther 3 door to finish ( 420kg cabinet ) lol lets see them walk off with that

[SawDustSniffer]

for xmas i bought my self a mob of gekos , was going to bye a 4 in one setup but looking in my parts collected bin , i have 4 1200 oz steppers ( bought them for there gearboxes and electric brakes ) and a 950mm identical pitch ball screw , so it wont be long before i rebuild it any way

for the rebuild i was thinkin of 200mm high C section steel for the x axis run ( it dosnt move and i have a heap ) with a massive (300mm) yaxis rail runners foot print ( on cheep china 25mm supported rails i have (1200long))

i went with the G201x's

bunged them on a heat sink and over fanned it because i had the fans

[rodm]

The weight of the cabinet and timber will be a good dampener for your machine. Harmonics can come into play with a light frame.

The smell from coolant is the bacteria that grows in it. If you go for one of the synthetic coolants you should be OK - say should becasue a mate's coolant stunk but it ended up being a dead mouse in the tank.

On that topic a good sealer for the timber enclosure would be wise.

[SawDustSniffer]

ive been slack lately , other things to do ,
got the gang of geckos in and running sweet , amazing how much smoother it is , and the motors dont even get hot now i used the "PC 4" pin IDE power plugs for the stepper wire connections

thought about the water works and figged , "outside the cabinet " was best ill build a mini cupboard to that side , filling in the "pole Gap" between CNC and Wood Lath cabinet

today i got the green blood flowing
the pump is a bit over sized so went for 2 radiators , the top one takes out most the heat from the spindle returning it into the tank ,
the pump (240volt pressure pump) draws from the tank and blows its high pressure coolant into a Y , one is reduced to 8mm going to the spindle , the 1/2 inch line go's to the second radiator , looks to be a 10:1 flow , 10% go's to the spindle , 90% gets re-cooled through the 2nd radiator ( had a dud 240 volt fan as well )

the spindle tubes were replaced with 8mm pig tail hose , when I ziptied the spindle cable to the hoses i came up a bit short , so will remove the excess 8mm coil hose
there will be 2 more coil hose lines for the mist cooler , and a vacuum hose down the centre

still a heap to do , lol , hope to get the VDF mounted and connected ( MACH3 controlled ) and fill in the back of the cabnet with a box for monitor / keyboard / mouse, this week end , i doubt it

[SawDustSniffer]

ran the spindle today for an hour ( with out fans running ) and the 8lts of coolant only raised 7 deg ,then turned on the fans , and it levelled out at +3c after 5 min


perfect

i hope to chill the air / coolant mix for the mist cooling , using 3x 60 watt pelters for each ( a lot of heat )
figured if you can get the air / coolant mix to 1-3c when it leaves the "mist head" it should cool even more

mounting the cooling " sandwich " on the spindle , just need 1 more blue "laser " cooling unit
????/ still haven't decided ???? the weight on the spindle is not good , but having to insulate the feed tubes , would be a hassle

[rodm]

Ken,
Like the use of peltiers to cool the mist but is there a chance it could ice up if the fluid wasn't flowing?
Do you have a link for the mister - that unit looks good.

[SawDustSniffer]

the pelters will be on a thermostats , small programmable ones off ebay
+ the 30/70 metho / water , could go down to -5c , if it turns into a snow maker i will raise the temp
peltiers will only cool to a set temp , these are 67c ones , so once the cold side gets to 67c colder than the hot side , it wont cool anymore , you can stack them to get 2x , but room temp is always 30c up here , so that gives me 30c rise in coolant temp for the radiators to get rid of , hence the large radiators , the wattage of the pelter's gets turned to heat + the heat removed from one side
the thermostat is a voltage regulator one ( switches quickly on and off and a capacitor smooths the voltage ) so instead of 12volt 0n off , the voltage drops from 12 volts to 0 volts as it gets near the temp witch it is set at ( then fuzzy logic magic predicts what will happen from what has happened )

there are air coolers that use the compressed air expanding to cool some of the compressed air , but what ive seen use huge amounts of air and sound like jet engines


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from yanky land so the USA postal service will "right royally rodger" you
???imagine how much more trade USA would have if there postal service was economical ???
he also sells the hoses and new tips
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BIJUR B136 SPRAY JET MIST NOZZLE TIP BRIDGEPORT CNC | eBay

im using the coiled blue hose and bringing it down from the top of the cupboard to the spindle
will have a regulator near the console for air pressure ,with a solenoid for mach3 screen control and hope to use a "car petrol pump"to pump the coolant , as if you have the coolent tank higher than the nozzle it will drip when air is turned off (wasting the coolant )
the pic is the small compressor i hope will run it with , i have a huge one but that would be a waist of electricity , im limited to the 32Amps feed into the shed , and its a 300m run under ground to the main fuse box ,so upgrading the feed would be a huge cost

lol still have to mount and squash the pelters and cooling blocks (bolts) and see if the square cooling blocks can take 60psi , so dont copy just yet

[SawDustSniffer]

thought id give it run tonight , the violin mould in MDF , need one when i cut out the violin plates and f holes as a vacuum clamp , and its free (25mm mdf , free packing sheet from work ;-) )
the first attempt lost some steps so i aborted

the second still lost some steps , got up to the roughing and aborted when some of the roughing was just showing (yer yer im still a newbie at this )

3rd all going well with slower feed speed / depth when the zaxis went haywire

4th , z axis haywire

5th , zaxis haywire

look for a problem , after 30min scratching my head and sticking the mullti meter in every where i found that the b- wire is broken in the chain , no extra 4 core wire , so ill fix it tomorrow

weird , the z asis still moves but direction is random , when it hits its stops it changes directions by its self

[SawDustSniffer]

got the z axis wire all corrected , and did a test run out of MDF of my violin mould , roughin was perfect ,
finish code was great ???? 1.5 mm longer than it should be ,back to back slash correction
because it was over size i figgered , why not test reproduction , so i painted it white ( never removed it from clamps ) and reran the finish code ,

well it was the 1.5mm out to start , so some rough " pause crank the knobs by hand to line it up where it should be " dodgy stuff , and i had it running sweet

bit off on the yaxis but good enough for the test

1/4way through Yaxis wire brakes ( haven checked yet but pretty shore its a broken cable ) machine takes off with a mind of its own ( while i was poring a rum ) , {see photo}

so it looks like im gonna have to sort out the backslash , and rewire the Yaxis tomorrow

boommer how's your original china cheepy wiring going , my Z axis went at 7 hours , and yaxis at 10 hours , i might just do the x axis for the hell of it



best part is , it didnt stuff the job , ran through the waste , well it is 1.5 mm over size in the x axis , so was bin fodder any way , pity you cant smoke barra over MDF