repainting machines

[Leeok]

Gday,

Well I pretty keen to get back into my woodworking again after bit of a break
.
All my machines are currently stored in the shed at my work, so I have finally decied to restore them all while there here, and while I have the time and machinery to do so.

Long story short I'm going to be stripping them down to bare bones,repainting them and then replace bearings ect as I reassemble them, so just wondering what would be the best paint to use?

Cheers Lee

[Col]

I have repainted a couple. I used industrial hammertone paint as it hides imperfections. Spray it on with a gun. Any paint store will lead you on the correct path or go to your local trailer manufacturer and ask what they use. Make sure you get the correct thinners to match the paint type or else you could end up with a mess. The stuff I used dried within a few minutes. I went for a light green to match the original Woodfast colour scheme. Primer undercoat spray first.

Col.

[China]

I would use either a polyurathane, or a epoxy type paint.

[Leeok]

Sounds good, looks like I might try and hit the paint shop this weekend.

Should look neat and tidy once there done with a bit of luck.

Cheers Lee

[Leeok]

I have repainted a couple. I used industrial hammertone paint as it hides imperfections. Spray it on with a gun. Any paint store will lead you on the correct path or go to your local trailer manufacturer and ask what they use. Make sure you get the correct thinners to match the paint type or else you could end up with a mess. The stuff I used dried within a few minutes. I went for a light green to match the original Woodfast colour scheme. Primer undercoat spray first.

Col.

Hey Col,

Did you have to do much prep to yours before painting?

I have 3 that are in good condition considering there age and one that has some paint flaking and is just over all a bit shabby looking.
Not sure wether to just touch them up with wire brush or sand blast the whole lot and be done with it?

[Col]

Hey Col,

Did you have to do much prep to yours before painting?

I have 3 that are in good condition considering there age and one that has some paint flaking and is just over all a bit shabby looking.
Not sure wether to just touch them up with wire brush or sand blast the whole lot and be done with it?

I got a lathe from a school that was closing. It was badly scratched and dinged. I wire brushed it all first with a brush in a small angle grinder. I then took the random orbit sander to it. I filled any really bad dings with auto body filler then spray primed and hammertone green finish close to original colour. I did up a small bandsaw and woodfast disc sander by sanding and priming then hammertone. It is worth taking your time and doing as best job you can to avoid heartbreak with a bodgey finish. The hammertone gives a great finish as it hides a lot of imperfections and dries fast. I have used Wattyl and Haymes hammertone and another from a local Prism paint outlet. Different companies have slightly different greens. Take a bit of the machine if possible to get a match.
The problem with sandblasting is that the grit gets in everywhere and buggers bearings and machined surfaces. It is good for loose covers and such.
Col.

[jgforsberg]

First, premium paints form Sherwin Williams, Du Pont, PPG and others have the same basic formulation with several labels. Automotive paints can be purchased in an industrial labeled for about half the price. My paint dealer tipped me to this fact. . Automotive paints can be VERY GOOD, but my first choice might be to look for them as INDUSTRIAL labeled. In our area there are actually three separate divisions of Sherwin Williams. The strip mall stores selling basic homeowner paint. SW industrial stores usually disguised in an industrial park, and SW automotive paint stores. these guys basically do not even talk to each other. And I have yet to be in one that even has a catalog to show overall what is offered .
So, for a discussion in paint, in somewhat generic terms, my choices are all paint in a can, rather that rattle cans. The rattle can paint has been thinned a LOT at the factory to be able to be sprayed out of the can. So you get very thin DFT and should resort to many coats to build up the film thickness. Or as happens to many, spray it on so heavy you get runs, sags, crinkling, etc. For anything bigger than a breadbox they are not particularly cheap!

So, from the bottom of the feed chain up, the entry level oil based paint is usually an ALKYD based paint. Rustoleum is an alkyd paint but even here there are two labels, consumer big box store stuff, and Rustoleum COMMERCIAL such as you might find by a wholesaler. It is very user friendly by brush, roller, or spray, relatively easy cleanup with common mineral spirits.

Next up I like combination paint chemistry termed alkyd urethane. My experience is its a step up in durability from the others, can be mixed to virtually ANY solid color, and still lays out nice, easy to use, mineral spirits cleanup.

Then you get to two part paints which may be acrylic, polyester, polyurethane, or a blend of those chemistries. They can be a pain to deal with, certainly have a learning curve in application and coverage, and almost demand or cry out to have to be sprayed. They are widely used commercially and industrially because they offer something not found in the retail paints. Durability in several respects for harsh use environments. The 'hardener' used is typically an isocyanate chemistry which can be very hazardous to us mere mortals. Clean up almost always requires lacquer thinner, which itself is well above water for safe exposure or contact by humans, is extremely flammable, other considerations. But if experienced, an outstanding and durable finish can be achieved. Most of these line tout the use of a CLEAR COAT for added protection over your completed paint job.

Now I am from Canada and you may not have these paint suppliers here so take my advise for what you paid for it.

jack
English machines