Colt Maxicut Forstner bits - deep boring test

[rsser]

Re auger length for turners: a q. perhaps better posted on the woodturning sub-forum.

It's years since I did a pepper grinder and I gave it to my son who said, 'Er, it's a bit phallic'.

A number of ripostes sprang to mind ;-}

But to be serious, Brendan published an article in Aust. Woodworker on using the Crushgrind mechanism and he was using a 25cm unit.

I'm not sure how critical the 2cm diff. would be cp. the Colt 23cm in application; in price, with HSS it would be significant. Ask Brendan. He's a forum member. User name: brendan stemp

...

Thanks for the pics.

The plus or HSS version is clearly different from the HCS Forstner. Thinking of ease of sharpening here. It doesn't look like registration across the chipper top and rim is possible. But the bevel length of the chipper looks a bit longer. Whatever (as the kids say). For this application I can't see that the included bevel angle is all that critical; the cutting angle will remain the same however hamfisted you are with sharpening. A critical factor in cutting life performance will be to maintain even heights of the chipper edges ... as I've discovered.

[Groggy]

If I was using a hand held drill and deep boring more than a few holes >80mm I'd get an auger into it.

My ideal would be:

1. A scotch pattern auger for strength and speed in hardwoods, perhaps with a twin land for clean sides (probably impractical in this design).
2. Double spur head for a clean hole - but short spurs so it does not chase the grain.
3. Uniform diameter to avoid leading off center, not a back-taper bit.
4. HSS for heat issues.
5. Hex shank for strong grip in the chuck.

[rsser]

And to elaborate a little on my post about lathe deep boring, and this bears on and may qualify my comment about tracking with this gear ...

Going off centre will make more demands on the bit and generate more heat. Not desirable. The grain in the wood can encourage this as can the quality of the tailstock.

The VL175 tailstock and quill show very little play. In fact, once the hole is started you can loosen the tailstock clamp and just push the whole kit in to bore.

This is streets ahead of the Stubby and Teknatool lathes I've had.

[FenceFurniture]

SHARPENING:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAO4UVs_Qik&feature=player_embedded]Colt Sharpening[/ame]


600mm deep hole:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2lQczm0pZg&feature=player_embedded]Drilling a log[/ame]


On a lathe:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kjf_gtrXEs&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - Broadcast Yourself[/ame]

[FenceFurniture]

Errr, Groggy, what did I do wrong wuth that embedded video?

EDIT by Groggy: The link was wrong, press edit and see what it looks like now. A full screen link will not work.

[FenceFurniture]

1. A scotch pattern auger for strength and speed

Try as I might, I can't get a good pic or diagram of a Scotch pattern. The clearest one was from China, so I'll be blessed if I trust that to be correct.

I had a Colt Lewis Auger pass through my hands, and I can't remember the design (I'm still waiting for mine). Is it just a spiral of DNA like steel, whereas the Scotch has the centre running right through. Then there's a Jennings pattern.......

EDIT:
LEWIS PATTERN AUGER DIAGRAM & PIC

[FenceFurniture]

Sorry, seem to be hogging the posting atm.

While we're at it Ern, what's a good brand of diamond file/paddle? Got any links?

[rsser]

Hog away my friend. You've earned the right ;-}

With diamond stuff, price is a good guide; there's no short cuts here.

I've used Ezelap paddle hones for quite a while for touch-ups of various tools. They cut well and last well. Downside is flex in the plakky substrate but you learn to deal with this.

Crumbs, think the last ones, a set of three, might actually have come from Bunnies.

More here

[NeilS]

Neil, to be clearer, after the 2nd test the components had to be separated by a decent tug on the spanners on the shaft flats.

Thanks, Ern. Difficult to separate is definitely better than prone to letting go.