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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    195

    Default need assistance setting up my Triton TRA001

    Hi all,

    I bought a Triton TRA001 Router a year or two ago, planning on using it to make boxes, but I never ended up setting it up because I was put off by the cost and bewildering options involved in getting the table set up.

    I'm planning on mainly using it to make lots of simple wooden boxes for use around the house and shed, as I have a hundred other hobbies that I'm constantly needing storage boxes for. So some dovetails, but mainly I'd be using it for finger joints, simple bevels and dados and so on. No big materials in mind.

    I think the simple Gifkins Router table is all I need http://www.gifkins.com.au/Gifkins%20...%20version.pdf (I'll be using it in the carport, basically outside, so will it be ok not to try and collect the dust?). I'd be grateful for any pointers from members on what's best to make this table from and any tips on how to put it together. But after that, I'm a bit confused.

    I normally like to build my own stuff, but I'm leaning toward buying a prebuilt top which I know is gonna be flat. Professional Woodworking Supplies sells some nice looking tops and plates, and their Type C top looks a good buy, however I think the Incra fences may be the best for the joints I have in mind - something like the Original Inca Jig looks good? I'm not too sure.

    Beyond that, it seems from what I've been reading that the Triton doesn't need a lot of extras, and given I'll only be using this occasionally it looks like I won't really need a raiser, lift or above table extension bit? Is this right?

    Finally, a bit off topic, but I don't have ready access to a table saw and therefore my ability to rip down boards to make lids, sides, inserts etc is limited. I have got a cheap bandsaw which I may be able to coax into cutting some thin strips for this purpose - are there any other cheap options to achieve this important task?

    thanks for any help you can provide.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    63
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    13,354

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SilverSniper View Post
    (I'll be using it in the carport, basically outside, so will it be ok not to try and collect the dust?)
    You can use it quite well without dust collection. However... hooking up a vacuum will make life easier by both reducing time spent unblocking clogs and reducing air-borne dust. *cough-cough*



    I'd be grateful for any pointers from members on what's best to make this table from and any tips on how to put it together. But after that, I'm a bit confused.

    I normally like to build my own stuff, but I'm leaning toward buying a prebuilt top which I know is gonna be flat. Professional Woodworking Supplies sells some nice looking tops and plates, and their Type C top looks a good buy, however I think the Incra fences may be the best for the joints I have in mind - something like the Original Inca Jig looks good? I'm not too sure.
    Firstly... all you need for an effective router table is a flat surface with room to bolt a router underneath and a hole with just enough clearance to poke the bit through.

    If the router is destined to live under the table, then you can get away with something as simple as a sheet of MDF sitting on a stack of bricks!

    The only thing that's fairly critical are the zero-clearance plates... but even then you only need those if you're going to be using a wide range of bit diameters.

    For finger-jointing and dovetailing, you'd only use the one plate all the time so may as well forget about them altogether and just drill the same sized hole in your home-made table in the first place.

    All you need for a fence is a straight edge clamped anywhere on the table that's convenient and gives you the right spacing from the jig.


    Now, the Incra fence is a very, very nice bit of kit if you're intending to do some seriously fancy dovetailing. But it's a fairly complex bit of kit and has a long learning curve.

    If all you really want to do is make basic storage boxes, then IMHO you're better off looking at the Gifkins Jig. Cheaper, simpler and - once you understand how it works - fairly foolproof. Not as versatile as the Incra, but not as exxy either.

    Beyond that, it seems from what I've been reading that the Triton doesn't need a lot of extras, and given I'll only be using this occasionally it looks like I won't really need a raiser, lift or above table extension bit? Is this right?
    Need? No. Not unless your table was really badly designed in the first place. But they can be convenient.

    Finally, a bit off topic, but I don't have ready access to a table saw and therefore my ability to rip down boards to make lids, sides, inserts etc is limited. I have got a cheap bandsaw which I may be able to coax into cutting some thin strips for this purpose - are there any other cheap options to achieve this important task?
    How are you with a handsaw? Or a hand-held circular saw?

    Me, I'd look at spending some serious time tuning the bandsaw.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    195

    Default

    thanks,

    I've done more research and I'm thinking of buying the 'spency Incra LS Supersystem and making the top myself to save some coin. This seems to be the best way to go.

    I'm hoping this will be "buy it once" type of purchase that I won't regret

    I've looked at Big Shed's router table here, its the closest one to a stack of bricks I could find on the forums (kidding it looks perfect). <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <woNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-AU</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <wompatibility> <wreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <wseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <wontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </wompatibility> <wrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</wrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> 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    But I've been staring and staring at the stepped insert he cut out of the top for the router plate and I just can't figure out how its been done! There must have been two cuts in there, but I'm not sure where the frame comes into it. I'd be grateful if someone (such as Big Shed) could explain it to a noob like me.

    Is there a recommended width of the table to match the fence? - table sizes seem to vary quite a bit in the online shops.

    Is there any view on whether to buy the standard system or LS super system? I'm having trouble tracking down recommendations.

    Finally, I haven't be able to find a recommendation for the safety switch under the table - the ones I've seen at woodwork shops seem very expensive for what they are...

    as always your help is much appreciated

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Post #1 in that thread shows the template I made to cut the correct size opening with my TRA001 router, I give some details there as well.

  6. #5
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    Oct 2007
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    thanks for quick reply, but excuse my total ignorance, I just don't get it!

    the top is one piece of 32mm board, but in the photos is looks like its been laminated from two boards, because the top surface of the step (the part that contacts the bottom of the plate) is finished timber. I'm not sure how you've done this.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverSniper View Post
    thanks for quick reply, but excuse my total ignorance, I just don't get it!

    the top is one piece of 32mm board, but in the photos is looks like its been laminated from two boards, because the top surface of the step (the part that contacts the bottom of the plate) is finished timber. I'm not sure how you've done this.
    No, the top is solid 32mm laminated chipboard. As chipboard, particularly once the smooth top is routed away, is fairly rough and not very hard, I routed down a bit further, glude a panel of MDF in the hole then routed it again to the correct depth. This gave a smooth base for the routerplate to sit on. I also added some small screws under each of the depth adjustment screws in the routerplate, so they would have a solid base to be adjusted against. The only solid timber on the top is on the outside edge.

    Hope that helps.

    The router table has seen frequent use since that thread was posted and still working as good as new.
    Also very happy with the Incra LS System and Wonderfence FWIW.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vevey, Switzerland
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    Issue 52 of the Australian Wood Review had an article 'How to Make a Router Table' by Richard Vaughan that might interest you. He uses a Woodpecker lift in a home made table.

    I made the cabinet to his design but bought the Woodpecker phenolic table and fence. Richard made the table and fence.
    Cheers, Glen

  9. #8
    Join Date
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    thanks Glen, I'll see if its in my brother - in laws extensive library!

    I called up some local kitchen suppliers and had no joy finding offcuts for the top, but at Bunnings tonight I found they had pre-cut benchtops which were 600 x 1800 x 32mm HMR particle board for $25 a sheet. I like the price but I'm concerned it won't be wide enough for the top. Incra tables are 685mm wide, and they seem to fit the Incra jigs on them ok. I could add a 30mm hardwood apron around the outside to give me a total width of 660mm, but on closer inspection, it doesn't look like this will quite be wide enough.

    I'm starting to think it might be better to buy a table top, but I'm already stretched budget wise in choosing the super system, and the top I have in mind is $200 plus shipping.. it just depends on whether I can get my hands on some suitable timber.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverSniper View Post
    thanks Glen, I'll see if its in my brother - in laws extensive library!

    I called up some local kitchen suppliers and had no joy finding offcuts for the top, but at Bunnings tonight I found they had pre-cut benchtops which were 600 x 1800 x 32mm HMR particle board for $25 a sheet. I like the price but I'm concerned it won't be wide enough for the top. Incra tables are 685mm wide, and they seem to fit the Incra jigs on them ok. I could add a 30mm hardwood apron around the outside to give me a total width of 660mm, but on closer inspection, it doesn't look like this will quite be wide enough.

    I'm starting to think it might be better to buy a table top, but I'm already stretched budget wise in choosing the super system, and the top I have in mind is $200 plus shipping.. it just depends on whether I can get my hands on some suitable timber.
    Let me know if you want me to send you a copy.

    Richard used two pieces of 12mm ply laminated together and used 'horizontal grade plastic laminate' for the surface.

    He used some heavy clamping and some known straight bearers when laminating the ply pieces to make sure it was dead flat and glued a 'U' section reinforcement to the underside of the top.

    I screwed my phenolic table to a sheet of 12mm ply. That's good but the weight of the lift and Triton TRA001gives a very slight bow and when I get chance I'll fix some 50 by 25 steel tube under the ply to stiffen it.
    Cheers, Glen

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    thanks Glen,

    I saw another post on this forum where someone had use those plans (I think), so I'm going to try a combination of that design and Big Shed's. I'll post the link when I find it again, here it is https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/ma...r-table-80743/

    I had a ring around some local joiners this morning, no luck finding any offcuts of 32mm chipboard - but Laminex's Canberra warehouse turns out to be within 2 km of my house. I'll call them next week, but atm its looking more likely I'll go with the Table type C from Professional Woodworking Supplies.

    I've also had no luck finding knock together fitting for 25mm Steel tubing locally (as used in Big Shed's design), although there are some on the 'net its minimum order $40 plus $20 shipping, which is too much. Although I think it's a good idea to have the metal frame, I'm thinking of just building the cabinet entirely in wood (as a woodworker should).

    The blow out in cost means I'm gonna have to sell some of my precious handplanes on Ebay, which is a blow

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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverSniper View Post
    Finally, I haven't be able to find a recommendation for the safety switch under the table - the ones I've seen at woodwork shops seem very expensive for what they are...
    I used the Triton switch which cost $38 if memory serves from Carbatec as a spare part. It's a nice design although it doesn't have the no volt release - but I don't see that matters for the lone woodworker.

    By Triton switch I mean the switch that is used in the Triton router table and workcenter
    Cheers, Glen

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    I can't find any switches on Carbatec's website

    But I just realised the Pro Router type C table from Professional Woodworker's Supplies is only 600mm wide.

    The Incra fence is 28" - 711mm. I would have expected the table to be made to match.

    I guess the Bunning's 32mmx 600mm particle board is going to be just as good as the Pro Router table, at least as far as width goes. This does affect the thinking....

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    My top is 1160x800, I would not want to have a top narrower than that 800mm.

    It isn't just a matter that the LS fence is 700mm odd, but the extra 100mm gives you more in-feed and out-feed space. The Wonderfence is wider again because of the dust extraction fitting.

    Have you tried your local bench top manufacturer? Kitchen manufacturers don't nromally make their own bench tops, they get them from a bench top manufacturer. As most bench tops in kitchens are 600mm wide that's all the off-cuts and damaged tops that you will find in the average kitchen place.

    However bench top manufacturers do more than standard kitchen bench tops, they do office, shop and other commercial stuff and wider bench tops are more common there.

    As I said in my original thread, I got mine from a recycle yard that gets all sorts of timber and flat panel stuff from auctions etc, perhaps have a look in your local area for one of those?

    One thing that Canberra isn't short of is offices

    My switch came from Timbecon, it was on sale at the time.

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    thanks Fred, nice to have that confirmed. It's odd Incra doesn't specify a recommended width. Perhaps most of their customers already have tables and they don't want to put them off buying their fence?

    I'll keep chasing the benchtop - laminating my own with MDF is now the most likely option.

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    Attachment 179022
    Quote Originally Posted by SilverSniper View Post
    I can't find any switches on Carbatec's website
    It is a spare part for the Triton workcenter - not a standalone product - so you have to ring them

    Did a quick shot of the setup although it's a bit of a mess at the moment.
    Cheers, Glen

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