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Thread: Shed Wiring

  1. #1
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    Default Shed Wiring

    Before I start and before people start, I will be getting the shed electrical wiring signed off by a sparkie, good, that's out of the way.

    I have my shed erected and the concrete has been going off for a week now, so it is time to start the wiring. I have downloaded the AS/NZ standard so I know exactly what is involved and how to do it so the Sparkie doesn't catch me out during his inspection. What I want to do though......I want to run the power points around the perimeter of the shed so they can be placed any where in the shed without the need to disconnect and re wire.

    I have been mulling this over for a while and have come up with an idea. I intend to run some "C" channel all around the inside of the shed at about a height of 1.2M with the opening of the channel facing in. Inside this channel I will run the cable, or cables (depending on the number of points needed) right around the shed. Along the cable will be junction boxes allowing the cable to be tee'd off. I will "T" off a legnth of cable that is half the distance to the next junction. Every junction will have a cable T'd off with a similar length of cable. At the end of this cable will be a power point mounted on a board that will face mount onto the "C" channel. The "C" channel will be covered by more boards that will be the same size of the board that the power point is mounted to. This means that the power point can be relocated anywhere along the "C" channel and be restricted only by the length of the T'd of cable. As each power points cable is able to reach half way to the next power point, there is no where on the "C" channel that is could not be serviced by a power point. So if I decide to change my machines around, no poblemo. Clear as mud?

    Comments?
    Try to look unimportant, they may be low on ammo.

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soredust View Post
    Before I start and before people start, I will be getting the shed electrical wiring signed off by a sparkie, good, that's out of the way.
    ...and do you really think that's it ? Got news for you Soredust

  4. #3
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    Hey There,

    If I was doing my shed again,(I wish) I would put a double powerpoint every 2 metres around the walls, and would probably do a double circuit, (ie. 2 Circuits and every 2nd one on 1 circuit and the others on the other, Clear as mud)
    I have an Island bench in this shed and it has a double Power point on each corner, on a seperate Circuit (Wiring in the slab), then I have 6 doubles strategicly placed around the walls, ( I thought that I knew what I wanted and where, but no they are not strategic enough), and definitely a seperate circuit for the Fridge, (most improtant) and definitly Lights on a seperate circuit. My sub Board has 4 circuits all with 15 amp breakers.

    Good Luck

    HazzaB
    It's Hard to Kick Goals, When the Ba^$%##ds Keep moving the Goal Posts.


    Check out my Website www.harrybutlerdesigns.com.au

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod1949 View Post
    ...and do you really think that's it ? Got news for you Soredust
    So far so good......
    Try to look unimportant, they may be low on ammo.

  6. #5
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    I think an easier way would be to have round conduit running around at ceiling height, and placing inspection tees every meter and a half or so.

    When you decide to add a power point you just add on the dropdown bit of conduit, a wall spacer thingy box and the power point. This keeps the wall space otherwise free so you can push things (shelves, machines, whatever) hard up against the wall so you are not wasting space behind large items.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Master Splinter View Post
    I think an easier way would be to have round conduit running around at ceiling height, and placing inspection tees every meter and a half or so.

    When you decide to add a power point you just add on the dropdown bit of conduit, a wall spacer thingy box and the power point. This keeps the wall space otherwise free so you can push things (shelves, machines, whatever) hard up against the wall so you are not wasting space behind large items.
    The design I describe means I don't have to add anything. There will be more than enough pwr pnts along the wall, with the option of sliding them in either direction without touching the cabling at all. The "C" channel covers will be set level with the wall lining so the only thing to give it away will be the screws holding the plates/cover on.
    Try to look unimportant, they may be low on ammo.

  8. #7
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    If I was doing my shed again I'd combine your idea with MasterSplinters idea.

    I have 11 doubles GPOs and 2 15A lines in the new part of the shed and 1 x 15A and 6 double GPOs in the older part of the shed. I managed to sneak one under floor 15A outlet for my TS better and 4 overhead double GPOs into my setup and wished I had done more of these.

  9. #8
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    Reading your description it sounds a bit similar to wiring in office partitions.

  10. #9
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    You might want to also consider a couple of hanging power points. Can be very convienient.
    Bob

    "If a man is after money, he's money mad; if he keeps it, he's a capitalist; if he spends it, he's a playboy; if he doesn't get it, he's a never-do-well; if he doesn't try to get it, he lacks ambition. If he gets it without working for it; he's a parasite; and if he accumulates it after a life time of hard work, people call him a fool who never got anything out of life."
    - Vic Oliver

  11. #10
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    Default Shed wiring

    Very good point Bobr. I was just about to add to the thread to say that when I came to your post. Even better than a pendant socket outlet is the same set up but running on a fixed overhead static wire with the appropriate flexible cable in loops fastened to rings that run on the static wire. As a hobbyist you could get away with a couple or three of these to fulfill all your electrical requirements at a fraction of the cost and time input of installing the other suggestions. I'm talking about 240V and obviously you still need to meet the regs. with a sub board and appropriately dimensioned CB's and safety switches. Think about it?

    Old Pete

    Quote Originally Posted by BobR View Post
    You might want to also consider a couple of hanging power points. Can be very convienient.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soredust View Post
    Along the cable will be junction boxes allowing the cable to be tee'd off. I will "T" off a legnth of cable that is half the distance to the next junction.
    Please let me prefice my comments with the disclaimer that I am not a sparky. Please check what I say with one before acting on it.
    If you have access to an approachable sparky who is prepared to sign off on your work, this shouldn't be an issue to ask the questions before you start.

    My understanding is that excessive numbers of junction boxes are frowned upon. Each one offers a bit more resistance in the line, and this extra resistance must be taken into consideration when doing the comps on the job.

    This can be overcome by merely running a loop from the main run to each powerpoint. You'll use twice the length of cable in each run over your original plan, but will save on the cost of junction boxes.
    At the end of the day, you should be well in front on the budget.

    Cheers
    Jim
    Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections....

  13. #12
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    'Course at the end of the day, we are talking about multiple ++ GPO and/or provision for them, plus other alternatives, and it seems to me to have the tone of a wiring job for a Taj Mahal workshop. Now far be it from me who has no electrical qualifications, but would it not be more logical a discussion if some idea of the dimenson of the task was known?

    JMHO

  14. #13
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    You can buy plastic "channel" specifically for what you want to do. The front is held on by a simple push and can be removed whenever you want. The advantages are it will hold as much cable as you want and more can be added as needed unlike conduit which once in is hard to pull more cable through and harder to get it to exit mid length etc. With the plastic channel simply put a drill through it and you then add the drop conduit from that hole.

    Put all your light outlets in as unswitched three pin outlets and plug the lights in to the outlet as needed. You can then add/subtract/move very easily with longer cords, double adaptors etc. In fact put more points in than you need as you don't have to use them all initially. I did this and it is the single best thing I have done in my shed as the lighting has been moved, changed, added to etc many times and all I did was plug them in, use longer cords etc.

    I have overhead outlets but tall people need to be aware they are there and they can be dangerous but I mine have never been an issue as the machines more or less guard them.
    CHRIS

  15. #14
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    U really dont need any j/boxes in a shed just loop in and out of each power point, if u r going to run the cable in your c section at 1200mm with the opening to the front u need to really to put it in conduit or duct (channel as mentioned) as the cable needs to be adequately protected. If u really r getting it signed off by a sparky leave the power points off the wall for them to inspect. How big is the shed how many powed points.

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