Roubo Bench Issues and Questions

[zelk]

Whilst it does not look as handsome as suede leather I've found that the very cheap perforated rubber mats have enormous gripping power. Where required I glue it to fences etc with polyurethane glue (a very thin layer so that it does not expand out into the perforations). I made some timber clamps for my drill press, and glued a 2x2cm piece on the foot of the clamps with spectacular gripping results.

I know you don't have Aldis in the west (yet) but recently I lucked in on one of their specials which was rolls of this rubber (thicker than usual, 3mm uncompressed). For $5 i got a 2 metre by 0.5 metre roll, so I purchased 10 of them to do all my tool draws (and many to come)! It's a nice off-white colour which is not garish like some of the colours can be, so if you like I can post you a piece to do the job (I have 6 rolls left). They also had it in black and dark, almost charcoal brown which I eschewed as I want no darkness in the draws. I use this stuff for all sorts of things - on the dash board to stop the sunnies et al from flying around, under lamps, ornaments etc for added safety. Best stuff ever.

It stops all movement (except rolling) of the tools when the drawer is opened/shut:


Cheers, Brett

I have use this type of perforated rubber mat placing it under my ductile iron planes. After several months of contact, I have noted rust in the pattern of the perforation. Not sure whether the rust was the result of direct contact with the mat or whether it coincided with the gaps in the mat.
Zelk

[Groggy]

I have use this type of perforated rubber mat placing it under my ductile iron planes. After several months of contact, I have noted rust in the pattern of the perforation. Not sure whether the rust was the result of direct contact with the mat or whether it coincided with the gaps in the mat.
Zelk

I've noticed the same effect and stopped using this as a lining years ago because of it. It is really only suited for temporarily holding things IMO.

[derekcohen]

Any material that does not breath, such as rubber, steel and plastic, runs the risk of creating condensation. This leads to rust on steel surfaces.

Do not keep tools in steel cabinets. Do not line drawers with rubber matting.

Years ago, when I was involved with a car restoration, I would read about the cars whose owners filled every gap, pipe, tube, etc with foam to keep out moisture. However, these simply caused moisture to become trapped against the steel. The result was that these cars rusted faster than others.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[FenceFurniture]

Just as well my rasps are Sapphire coated then! Thanks for the tip-off, because I was going to do the same with my files (when I get them), and they probably won't be coated.

So, aside from a block or whatever to prevent movement, what's a suitable material to prevent tools moving when the drawers are opened and closed? Leather would be far too expensive (lots of drawers).

[derekcohen]

Wood!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[IanW]

Wood!

Yes indeed - isn't that what we are all about here!?

But be careful which woods you choose. Woods high in tannins can cause serious rusting. I used some scraps of Silky Oak, once, and everywhere it contacted steel it caused a nasty rash. I'd also recommend avoiding Eucalypts. I've had no trouble with camphor laurel, pine, or Qld Maple, and there would be lots of others, I'm sure.

It's fun figuring out various combinations & permutations to maximise use of the available space. I use a combination of spacers and solid blocks to hold things snugly & prevent unwanted contact or rolling about.

A few examples from my toolbox:
Cheers,

[zelk]

Yes indeed - isn't that what we are all about here!?

But be careful which woods you choose. Woods high in tannins can cause serious rusting. I used some scraps of Silky Oak, once, and everywhere it contacted steel it caused a nasty rash. I'd also recommend avoiding Eucalypts. I've had no trouble with camphor laurel, pine, or Qld Maple, and there would be lots of others, I'm sure.

It's fun figuring out various combinations & permutations to maximise use of the available space. I use a combination of spacers and solid blocks to hold things snugly & prevent unwanted contact or rolling about.

A few examples from my toolbox:
Cheers,

In addition to the above, avoid ribbed cardboard as well. I believe they may contain chemicals that encourage surface rust.
Zelk

[BobL]

Rubber matting is fine for plate tools like nickel or chromium plated stuff but I agree it can make a mess of exposed iron.

. . . . .So, aside from a block or whatever to prevent movement, what's a suitable material to prevent tools moving when the drawers are opened and closed? Leather would be far too expensive (lots of drawers).

It does not hold as well as rubber matting but I'm finding some thin felt like matting (SWMBO got it from spotlight) that I spray camellia oil onto and then scrunch it up so the oil spreads evenly throughout the felt works well.

[ian]

I returned to the fray on the weekend. The first task was to build the shelf. This is made of 5/8" thick (after levelling) Jarrah. I glued the panel up last week. Its weight adds another 10 kg (22 lbs) to the total, bringing the final weight of the bench to 192 kg or 422 lbs.

I was planing the panel with The Dreadnought (36" Jarrah jointer). The quickest way to flatten I know ...




The new shelf ..



It will hold tools such as a shooting board, Moxon vise, and bench hooks.

Hi Derek
I'm curious as to why you decided on a glued up panel for the shelf as an alternative to tongue and groved boards slotted into each other

How much gap did you leave for expansion?
or is Perth so dry, moisture change won't be a problem?

so how is the Bronze #3 performing?
do you prefer it over a BU?
or are you still making up your mind on teh new bench?

[Groggy]

Hi Derek
I'm curious as to why you decided on a glued up panel for the shelf as an alternative to tongue and groved boards slotted into each other

How much gap did you leave for expansion?
or is Perth so dry, moisture change won't be a problem?

I used quite dry T&G boards for the shelf in mine and did not glue them so I could remove them if needed; there was a 5mm gap left for expansion so it would not press against the legs. In addition, one of the boards had the bottom of the groove removed to act as a failure point if the expansion ever got to that point. I did not expect to ever see it, but it took only 2-3 months before I came in the shed to find the shelf had 'popped'. I now have 1cm play available.

[derekcohen]

Hi Derek
I'm curious as to why you decided on a glued up panel for the shelf as an alternative to tongue and groved boards slotted into each other

How much gap did you leave for expansion?
or is Perth so dry, moisture change won't be a problem?

Hi Ian

My original plan was to tongue-and-groove the boards. I was looking forward to another outing with my LN #49. Part of the reason I did not do so was that I ran out of boards - there was not enough to include the T&G. In a way I was relieved as I was also concerned about dust collecting in the grooves, not to mention the extra work - I was getting tired of the build. So I justified a flat panel as the easiest to keep clean, and the quickest to build.

There is an expansion gap at the rear, about 3mm, and the panel is loose. Keep in mind that Perth weather is generally dry anyway.

so how is the Bronze #3 performing?
do you prefer it over a BU?
or are you still making up your mind on teh new bench?

The bronze #3 is a fabulous plane. This one has a 55 degree frog. The narrow blade (1 3/4") along with a little wax on the sole keeps it moving in hardwood.

I must point out (again) that for me it is not (and never has been) a fight between BU and BD. My issue has been common angle versus half pitch in interlocked timber, which is so common in Oz, especially WA. It is easier to create a half pitch in a BU plane. It is also easier to attain a low cutting angle for end grain (e.g. shooting boards). I prefer BD planes over BU for their ease in sharpening - I freehand on a hollow grind as I am too lazy to use a honing guide, which I only do because the performance of BU planes is so good. BU planes with high cutting angles are still easier to push at high angles.

The new bench is amazing. How can it not be after my old bench!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ian]

The bronze #3 is a fabulous plane. This one has a 55 degree frog. The narrow blade (1 3/4") along with a little wax on the sole keeps it moving in hardwood.

I must point out (again) that for me it is not (and never has been) a fight between BU and BD. My issue has been common angle versus half pitch in interlocked timber, which is so common in Oz, especially WA. It is easier to create a half pitch in a BU plane. It is also easier to attain a low cutting angle for end grain (e.g. shooting boards). I prefer BD planes over BU for their ease in sharpening - I freehand on a hollow grind as I am too lazy to use a honing guide, which I only do because the performance of BU planes is so good. BU planes with high cutting angles are still easier to push at high angles.

The new bench is amazing. How can it not be after my old bench!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,
yes I know that.
A significant life event is maybe not that far away and celebrating with a new plane might be the way to go.
If you're guessing I'm tossing up between a #3 with HAF and a SBUS, you'd be right
As the only person I know who has a #3 with HAF and having reread your SBUS review tonight, seeing the #3 on the bench got me interested in your opinion.

a review, perhaps? bofore or after you finish with block planes?

[derekcohen]

Hi Ian

My life is filled with changes of direction! I have been planning a comparison of small versus large smoothers, with the SBUS and #3 on one side and the BUS/#4 1/2 on the other. Then I got caught up in the bench. This weekend I must complete a bedside table for my son, which I will combine with a review of the Glen-Drake dovetail saw and kerf starter, which was sent to me for this purpose. But I have also started building a bridle plough plane. So I have put aside the plane review until I get these done.

In brief ...

The LV SBUS is a really delightful, light and throw-about small smoother. It feels like an extension of one's hand. It should be a serious contender if you are comfortable using a honing guide to sharpen.

The LN bronze #3 with 55 frog feels like a precision instrument. It feels heavier, less throw-about and more purposeful, is less an all-rounder and ultimately less capable than the SBUS (unless you add a backbevel), but makes up for this with a terrific performance nevertheless in bling garb. This is a plane preferred if you are not working the extremes of interlocked woods and/or prefer to freehand sharpen blades.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[johnredl]

Hi Ian

My life is filled with changes of direction! I have been planning a comparison of small versus large smoothers, with the SBUS and #3 on one side and the BUS/#4 1/2 on the other. Then I got caught up in the bench. This weekend I must complete a bedside table for my son, which I will combine with a review of the Glen-Drake dovetail saw and kerf starter, which was sent to me for this purpose. But I have also started building a bridle plough plane. So I have put aside the plane review until I get these done.

In brief ...

The LV SBUS is a really delightful, light and throw-about small smoother. It feels like an extension of one's hand. It should be a serious contender if you are comfortable using a honing guide to sharpen.

The LN bronze #3 with 55 frog feels like a precision instrument. It feels heavier, less throw-about and more purposeful, is less an all-rounder and ultimately less capable than the SBUS (unless you add a backbevel), but makes up for this with a terrific performance nevertheless in bling garb. This is a plane preferred if you are not working the extremes of interlocked woods and/or prefer to freehand sharpen blades.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Goodness, my hat off to u for achieving so much so quickly...where do u find time to work?!!

[Basilg]

Hi Ian

The bronze #3 is a fabulous plane. This one has a 55 degree frog. The narrow blade (1 3/4") along with a little wax on the sole keeps it moving in hardwood.

I must point out (again) that for me it is not (and never has been) a fight between BU and BD. My issue has been common angle versus half pitch in interlocked timber, which is so common in Oz, especially WA. It is easier to create a half pitch in a BU plane. It is also easier to attain a low cutting angle for end grain (e.g. shooting boards). I prefer BD planes over BU for their ease in sharpening - I freehand on a hollow grind as I am too lazy to use a honing guide, which I only do because the performance of BU planes is so good. BU planes with high cutting angles are still easier to push at high angles.

The new bench is amazing. How can it not be after my old bench!

Regards from Perth

Derek

G'day Derek

When you say " It is easier to create a half pitch in a BU plane " why do you think is the case ? I have one plane dedicated to difficult grain which is BD and I have a back bevel on the blade to create Middle Pitch (55 degrees), which works fine for most woods. It is a very simple process to add the back bevel, and takes very little time to do so.

" BU planes with high cutting angles are still easier to push at high angles "
If you have two planes with the same pitch one bevel up and one bevel down, why is one easier to push that the other ? I would have thought it requires the same amount of force.

Regards