am i being ambitios - resaw question

[old_picker]

want to resaw a piece of figured myrtle 190x20x500mm long into 4 slices 190x?x500mm
have a 14" jet with a riser kit and a 12mm bimetal blade that has done little work
will use a point fence i built myself that has worked fine in the past but with bigger slices

the questioned is aimed at those with experience in resawing
what thickness could i expect after sanding?

[BobL]

How long a cut are we talking?

[old_picker]

How long a cut are we talking?

sorry
some vital data missing i have edited the OP

[mic-d]

Is it already dressed?

edit. I don't think you should expect more than 4 x 2mm veneers fully sanded if everything goes well on the bandsaw.

[BobL]

At 500 mm I'd give it a shot, but practice first with a piece of crapiata to see if you and the BS will cut strait. Don't expect to cut fast and don't push too hard.

[old_picker]

it is dressed and straight

[Sir Stinkalot]

My guess would be three slices not the four.

[rsser]

Yeah, practise first.

Your Jet may not have the grunt to do the job but no loss in trying on scrap.

See if you can find a forum member or a WW club with a drum sander. Figured myrtle ain't the worst of timbers to redimension but if you have to do it with a belt sander keeping within specs will give you an ulcer.

You haven't said what kind of blade specs you have. For a 190mm cut, fewer teeth with some skip teeth in there would be my choice.

There's been some good user reports on this resawing blade from the US; not expensive to have shipped. There's one I've yet to try in my armoury, ready for some quilted Qld maple boards in the 'bank'.

[old_picker]

i have a small carbatec drum sander and the blade is specifically for resaw - cut a 30mm walnut board into 4 and had few problems -

for me i found the point fence is really the main thing so when the blade does start to wander you can compensate by swinging the board left or right - this saw doesnt track too good and trying to cut using a rigid fence was hopeless - when i bought it the first thing i did was to try a resaw and the second was to pull off the fence

[rsser]

Ah, goodo; should've asked.

Yeah, a point or v-block support is the way to go with this.

As for blades, there are resaw blades that are wide, thick and 1tpi or so that need some grunt from the motor. Tried one on my 14" Woodfast and the result was comic. And to be fair, the WF wasn't made for this.

Your blade specs may be better.

I also use a bimetal blade as std kit and touch it up from time to time with a diamond wheel mounted in a powerdrill.

[Acco]

I think you should be able to, I know I can on my BAS-350 BS. The key is to make sure everything is setup correctly and to let the saw cut at its own pace

[pjt]

If I am resawing for veneers I allow 4mm per slice, so I would expect to get 5 slices from the 20mm dressed thick piece, this includes the blade kerf so I end up with thicknesses of about 2.5mm and after sanding both sides 1 to 1.5mm depends on how smooth the bandsawing was, I only use a solid fence with a 1tpi 1 1/4" woodmaster B blade, the 3/4" resaw woodslicer is another blade that I would use for a smooth finish and a little bit less kerf.
The bandsaw will need to be well setup, I would suggest that if you are getting any waves or curves wind the tension up, the bimetal blade should handle it.



Pete