Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 60
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Sound studio panels are designed to reduce reverb inside a studio which is different to preventing sound transmittance through a wall.

    I can tell you right away the egg cartons in your setup would have done something towards reducing the high frequencies and very little for the low frequencies and the 16 mm of chipboard would have most of the sound reduction High frequencies attenuation pretty quickly in atmosphere anyway so they are often less of a problem with neighbors.
    Very true BobL about the high frequencies, however my compressor is in a box made the same way under the fixed work bench at the end next to the wall with the exception of insulation batt under the bench top which again is 16mm PB & 3mm MDF holding it up.
    The gap between the back of the wall panels to the face of the cartons is about 25mm, so it allows the noise to bounce back and fourth between the panel and cartons.
    The high frequencies especially from the scribes on the saw makes the neighbours dogs bark! Never had a problem and with low frequencies the noise level is still halved.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tezza View Post
    Very true BobL about the high frequencies, however my compressor is in a box made the same way under the fixed work bench at the end next to the wall with the exception of insulation batt under the bench top which again is 16mm PB & 3mm MDF holding it up.
    The gap between the back of the wall panels to the face of the cartons is about 25mm, so it allows the noise to bounce back and fourth between the panel and cartons.
    The high frequencies especially from the scribes on the saw makes the neighbours dogs bark! Never had a problem and with low frequencies the noise level is still halved.
    The problem with low frequencies is they are less apparent to people near a sound source because the low frequencies are masked by even a small amount of high frequencies. The chances are the dogs can hear the low frequencies equally or better than us - that's why they can hear a car coming from a long way away. So it could be that the PB is working quite well.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    The problem with low frequencies is they are less apparent to people near a sound source because the low frequencies are masked by even a small amount of high frequencies. The chances are the dogs can hear the low frequencies equally or better than us - that's why they can hear a car coming from a long way away. So it could be that the PB is working quite well.
    Very interesting, I'm listening and learning.
    Lots to learn on these forums

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,061

    Default

    Thanks Bob. I have seen the top hat and can fit them without any problems. My other question comes from your comment last night that the bats would not reduce the noise unless there was some other sort of timber insulation put up against the metal walls first. What sort of timber would you suggest given that I don't have a lot of space?

    If I have of been smart I would have had a shed made out of besser blocks and solved all the problems in one go.

    Greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tezza View Post
    Very interesting, I'm listening and learning.
    Lots to learn on these forums
    About 10 years ago SWMBO convinced me that I needed a hearing test (She liked the TV on about 25, out of 50, and I liked it on 32/50) to cut a long story shot it turned out (accounting for age etc) that I was legally deaf in the higher frequencies. The audiologist suggested that from my frequency losses it was because I listened to too much 70's rock music and he was dead right. Anyway I investigated all this in some detail and the small upside is I can hear low frequencies a little better so I am statistically less likely to get run over as a pedestrian because I can hear vehicles coming. Now even though I can't hear high frequencies very well I really hate the sound of higher frequency tools like routers and angle grinders. I think it is psychosomatic because I know it is these frequencies that I have lost so I do everything I can (like ear muffs and ear plugs when using these tools) to prevent further loss.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,061

    Default

    I lost my higher pitch hearing due to big bore rifle shooting at the range. I shot in competitions (target) with 7.62 cal for a few years and now I have a lot of problems hearing higher pitch noises such as SWMBO yelling at me. However, as you said, I can hear a car coming or a person sneaking up behind me. Fortunately, I sold the gun many years ago.
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wynnum Qld
    Age
    76
    Posts
    113

    Default

    Hi Greg,

    I've been thinking of insulating my shed to reduce the heat.

    I was thinking of using bats and then lining the shed with plasterboard.

    The local big green shed has 2400x1200 sheets here for around $12.00 each.

    Perhaps you might be able to use something like that for yours.

    Cheers

    Bazza B

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BazzaDLB View Post
    Hi Greg,
    I've been thinking of insulating my shed to reduce the heat.
    I was thinking of using bats and then lining the shed with plasterboard.
    The local big green shed has 2400x1200 sheets here for around $12.00 each.
    Perhaps you might be able to use something like that for yours.
    Cheers
    Bazza B
    I was going to suggest plaster because that is what I used on most of my shed. 10 mm plasterboard has a higher mass per unit area than 6 mm ply and thus better sound insulation but plategenon's wall structure is too lightweight and any flush joints would crack over time. If your shed has a rigid wall structure then plaster is definitely a cheap way to go and while it dings easily it is also easily repaired.

    I used 75 x 32.8 x 1.2 mm steel C-channel studs between 100 x 50 mm C purlins for my wall frame which made for quite a rigid wall structure. I used mainly air cell for the insulation and some left over rockwool bats for the rest. The aircell and bats produces very little sound proofing, its the plasterboard that is the main contributor to the sound reduction.
    Here's the new part of the shed, half minorb and half paster lined.


    And here is the old part of the shed with the lining almost complete.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,061

    Default

    Life wasn't meant to be easy to quote a former PM.

    I arrived hime today after it had been raining most of the day to find a lot of water on the floor of the shed. This was after I sealed around the floor of the shed with silicone yesterday. Seems I am turning it into a swimming pool. That is the problem of moving a shed without disassembling it and rolling it to the new position. Now I might have to seal the roof to make sure water is not coming in from the top. When the water dries out inside I will give it the hose test and find the source. I might be able to apply a liquid membrane over the top of the roof if it is not too expensive to buy. I really don't want to spend a lot more money buying a new shed. Anyway I can't line it until I fix the water entry source. More silicone from Bunnings and a thicker layer around the base as well might be an option if it is coming in from underneath. What a pain.

    I thought about the plasterboard lining inside but I think it will be too heavy for such a light shed and as Bob said, will only crack with any movement. I also thought that I might put a layer of blueboard outside the shed on the side I want to really reduce the noise with the insultation still inside. The board will not be visible as it will be up against the trees on the boundary line side.

    If it comes to the crunch I will put the bloody thing down and build a timber and blueboard shed, lining it properly while I do it. All these delays is stopping any pen turning.
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wynnum Qld
    Age
    76
    Posts
    113

    Default

    Thanks Bob for the info re lining your shed with plasterboard.

    I think it is the way I'll go when I eventually get around to doing mine. It is Titan 6mx4m and I think it will handle the weight of the board.

    Cheers

    Bazza B
    Last edited by BazzaDLB; 24th February 2012 at 02:03 PM. Reason: Spelling x 3

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Cairns Qld Australia
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,229

    Default

    Hey Greg, if you haven't already done so, use Sikaflex to seal around the shed base. It will last 100 times longer than Silicone, and won't ever let go.
    I never forget anything I remember !!

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,061

    Default

    Pariss

    Unfortunately, I have already used the cheaper Bunnings product. Its pouring with rain here at the moment so I checked out the shed this afternoon. Observations - there was moisture (condensation) on the inside of the roof which might suggest a lack of ventilation; and the water seemed to be coming from the floor level.

    Do you think a layer of Sikaflex on the inside and a further thicker layer of the Bunnings stuff on the outside at the bottom might solve the problem?

    I am also going to seal the outside of the roof with a paint on sealer and put a slightly larger capping on the peak of the roof. I was hoping this might help in solving the condensation problem. I really have no idea as I don't know a lot about building. Irrespective I will have to line the walls with plastic, a thin blue board or something else to keep the condensation away from the insulation and plywood.

    Apart from hoping for another 7 year drought, I need to do something to waterproof the shed so the machinery is not destroyed by water or condensation

    Maybe its time to rip it down and build a timber shed

    Any ideas

    greg
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by plantagenon View Post
    .
    .
    .
    Irrespective I will have to line the walls with plastic, a thin blue board or something else to keep the condensation away from the insulation and plywood.
    It's not a problem if the insulation touches the underside of the roof or walls. That is in fact a good thing as it stops moist air making contact with the metal and condensing out the water/ That is a major benefit of insulation.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,061

    Default

    I think I have solved the leaks in the shed. They were coming from underneath as the slab is larger than the shed and water wasn't draining away properly. I bought a couple of bottles of Sika Boom AP which is a spray on expandable foam. That sealed all the gaps in the bottom. I trimmed it about 1/2 hour after spraying it and when it dried I put a layer of silicon along the base. So far, so good - its keeping the water out. The next job for the weekend is the lining of the shed.
    The Pen is mightier than the Sword

    www.artisanpens.com.au
    www.facebook.com/artisanpens.penmakers

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by plantagenon View Post
    I think I have solved the leaks in the shed.
    Good to hear.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. insulating shed
    By beefs in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 29th August 2009, 11:40 AM
  2. insulating shed
    By AndrewPatrol in forum THE GARDEN SHED
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 16th March 2008, 10:26 AM
  3. OT- Insulating the shed
    By Sterob in forum THE GARDEN SHED
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 13th February 2008, 11:28 AM
  4. Insulating shed.....
    By chris718 in forum THE GARDEN SHED
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 8th June 2007, 02:07 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •