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16th March 2012, 10:47 AM #181GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Ray,
lucky you arent Canadian lol
So it works along the same lines as the star washer dressers of old?
Stuart
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16th March 2012 10:47 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th March 2012, 04:13 PM #182
Hi Stuart,
There's a thread on PM which has some good tips on how the brake truing is used, I found a post by "CarbideBob" which has the following pictures.
I'm still a bit unclear on how it works, but I guess I'll find out soon enough...
It definately needs a better name than "Brake Controlled Wheel Truing Device" which is all I can find it being referred to as.. A better name might be "Rotary Dresser" perhaps...
Regards
Ray
PSlucky you arent Canadian lol
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16th March 2012, 05:44 PM #183Novice
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- Jun 2011
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- bankestown, NSW
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- 10
more details found about a BrakeControlledTruingDevices.pdf
Here is a link I found after googleing BrakeControlledTruingDevices.pdf
http://www.nortonindustrial.com/uplo...ingDevices.pdf
better description and photos compared to ebay link above. Just the info I have been looking for while researching these CBN wheels.
Thanks for previous ebay link
Cheers
Eka
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16th March 2012, 11:30 PM #184GOLD MEMBER
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- Melbourne
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Hi Ray,
An interesting read. At $150ish a wheel lets hope its not something you need to do often, are you planing on moving the head much?
Stuart
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17th March 2012, 09:35 AM #185
Hi Eka, Stuart,
Welcome to the forum Eka, and thanks for the pdf, that document explains things very nicely, it explains the difference between truing and dressing much better than I've seen else where, and also explains the teardrop pattern.
Hi Stuart,
Travers have truing wheels (not sure of the grade) for $16 or so
BRAKE TRUING 3"GRIND WHL TTC :: Brake Truing Unit | Travers Tool
On trying to solve the problem of fitting 32mm ID wheels to 1 1/4" arbors what do you think of these SKF wear sleeves? pdf attached. The are 0.28 wall thickness which means I'd have to ream the wheel centers a tad, but that's probably a good idea anyway for these chinese wheels.
Regards
Ray
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17th March 2012, 04:08 PM #186GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Eka, Ray,
Welcome Eka, thanks for the link.
Ray,
I wasnt talking about the price of the truing wheel, I meant the price of the CBN.
You are talking about those sleeves for Alum centered wheels only?
Seems like a good idea to me......but I havent tried it.
Have you measured the 32mm? it should be 32+ (or are the sleeves .28 x 2?)
You have different arbors for each wheel? If so do you really need to both?
Stuart
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17th March 2012, 04:45 PM #187
Hi Stuart,
Sorry, I thought you were talking about the truing wheel, yes CBN wheels are normally pretty pricey, I'm trying the chinese el-cheapo ones...
I remember reading somewhere that China is investing a lot in facilities to go towards reducing the cost of CBN .
These are the ones I'm using. Resin CBN grinding wheel plain cup 10x150mm New | eBay
Alox cup wheels are probably $20 or so, maybe less if you buy in bulk.. That CBN I linked to is $50 inc postage, (but that's still a lot less than $150, which is what you would normally pay for CBN)
but since most of what I'll be grinding is M2 hardened to 60-61 Rc, CBN is a better choice than Alox, or so I understand... I've also got a few of the cheaper diamond wheels to have a play with sharpening carbide.
I'm still trying to navigate the maze, so no doubt there are a few blind alleys yet to come..
Regards
Ray
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19th March 2012, 04:18 PM #188GOLD MEMBER
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- Jul 2010
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- Melbourne
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Hi Ray,
I was in at my mates work today and checked out the wheels on his flywheel grinder. I looked them up when I got home and it turns out they are in fact CBN not Diamond. So that sorts out that little mess. I'll have to remember to tell him next time I see him.
Stuart
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20th March 2012, 11:05 AM #189SENIOR MEMBER
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- Mar 2010
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- Nth Qld
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Ray , did you get a price from Topwork for those hubs?, I can find out from an older quote for them.
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20th March 2012, 03:08 PM #190
Hi Stuart,
I can't tell just by looking at the resin bonded wheels if they are diamond or cbn..
I ran the dti across the top of table yesterday, and it's got worn sections (up to 10 thou! ). Mostly on the left hand end, and less wear where the workhead mounts on the right side... After removing the top part, and ran the dti across the base it's running pretty true, down the middle section, but worn a little towards the front edge closest to the wheelhead ... so, it looks like the roller bearings are fair enough, but the top is going to need a re-grinding and scraping... just as well I've now got a big enough surface plate...
The top is 36", and I can do 24" (plus a bit) on the surface grinder, so I'm trying to think of a setup where I can do it with one (very careful) move... So long as I can get that 10 thou dip ground out, and get close enough to scrape..
From a purely practical standpoint, the work being ground, in a lot of cases isn't referenced directly to the table, but it would be better if the table was perfectly flat..
Hi Graziano,
Never got a reply from Topwork, if you've got a price I'd be interested to see what they charge. I ended up getting sopko arbors from Travers, and picked up a couple of spare LH ones on ebay. But there are a lot of accessories that I'm still looking for..
Regards
Ray
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20th March 2012, 03:18 PM #191Senior Member
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- Oct 2008
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- Wimmera
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- 51
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- 363
Hi ray
wow 10thou have you put a straight edge on the top or put it on the surface plate and measured with feeler gauges id be interested if you got a different result from that method to the dti one
cheers
Harty
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20th March 2012, 03:25 PM #192
Hi Harty,
I haven't put it on the surface plate yet, but the wear pattern is sort of dished, so I wouldn't get a feeler gauge in there. I'll do a breakup pass later tonight so I can blue it and get some kind of a read on the wear pattern before I go for the nuclear option.(surface grinder that is).
The bottom of the table looks pretty good, you can still see original scraping marks, so I'm hopefull that will still be ok as a reference for getting parallel.
Regards
Ray
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20th March 2012, 03:39 PM #193GOLD MEMBER
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- Melbourne
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Hi Ray,
Me either, I just took a picture of the part number and looked it up.
"perfectly flat" Will be the easy part, its the parallel part that will be ummmm "ticky". Still it should keep you out of trouble for awhile.
Is the top table flat on the back? I remember there is a t slot(or was it a L slot??) in it some how.
Stuart
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20th March 2012, 03:44 PM #194SENIOR MEMBER
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- Melbourne Australia
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20th March 2012, 03:53 PM #195Pink 10EE owner
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- Aug 2008
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- near Rockhampton
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You also may find it bowed like a banana when you put it on the plate...
Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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