Cincinnati No.2 Tool and Cutter Grinder

[harty69]

Ray you will be pleased to know the roller bearing system works well for cylindrical grinding anyway
I had a bit more of a play with a test piece I was working on the other night and I got it to a point where I could not measure any difference along the length of 10" with metric micrometer 0.01 and with a .0001"dial indicator it reads about a half a division which I reckon is pretty good
Only down side is now I want to grind everything

cheers
Harty

[RayG]

Ray you will be pleased to know the roller bearing system works well for cylindrical grinding anyway
I had a bit more of a play with a test piece I was working on the other night and I got it to a point where I could not measure any difference along the length of 10" with metric micrometer 0.01 and with a .0001"dial indicator it reads about a half a division which I reckon is pretty good
Only down side is now I want to grind everything

cheers
Harty

You're right, I am pleased to know that... I hope mine comes up that good.

That's pretty impressive, holding 1/10th of a thou over 10 inches, that's 2.5 microns! the cylindrical square I bought was 2 microns in 6 inches... you could go into production making cylindrical squares

And you can do it with hardened steel.. now there's a handy capability.

Regards
Ray

PS... No word from Sopko, but I did find Sopko grinding wheel arbors for the Cincinnati #2 in the Travers catalog that arrived today.. $99 each, which I guess is probably fair enough for precision grinding spindle arbors, and I guess if you are going to spend some money that's the place on the machine to spend it. Where the rubber meets the road so to speak.

[harty69]

You're right, I am pleased to know that... I hope mine comes up that good.

That's pretty impressive, holding 1/10th of a thou over 10 inches, that's 2.5 microns! the cylindrical square I bought was 2 microns in 6 inches... you could go into production making cylindrical squares

And you can do it with hardened steel.. now there's a handy capability.

Regards
Ray

PS... No word from Sopko, but I did find Sopko grinding wheel arbors for the Cincinnati #2 in the Travers catalog that arrived today.. $99 each, which I guess is probably fair enough for precision grinding spindle arbors, and I guess if you are going to spend some money that's the place on the machine to spend it. Where the rubber meets the road so to speak.

Hi ray

dont think i will go into buissiness it took me 4hrs to get it from 2/10th to .5/10th and a bit of luck im sure
i found that dressing the wheel was very very important and had to do it several times if you let it go to long you would start to see tinny ripples in the finnish

and dont stop the spindle in between grinds
and there was quite a bit of waiting for temps to stabilize as this had a significant affect on getting a parallel grind

cheers
Harty

[RayG]

Hi Harty,

0.5/10th that's not luck, I think there's a bit of carefull setup and skill involved..

On wheel dressing we found the same deal with the surface grinder, keeping the wheel dressed, is vital to getting a good finish. It will be interesting to see how the CBN wheels perform, since as far as I know they aren't that easy to dress. Might be a good argument for alox.

A couple of thoughts, first, you obviously aren't having any issues with phase imbalance from running off the RPC, that's good to know. Just out of curiousity why do you need to keep the wheel running, the reason I ask, is that I've heard you can get slight slippage of the wheel on the spindle when you start and stop, which is another reason why vfd ramp up ramp down is good for grinders.

Have you got a picture of the setup you are using?

Meantime, on mine, whoever painted it painted that crappy green over oil holes, reference surfaces, scales, gummed up the head rotation, I don't think it has been used since being painted... so it's taking forever to clean up, lots of little things rusted up, table stops, taper adjustment rusted up, taper lock tab rusted up... gradually getting it back into working order... discovered the original paint under the green was a blueish-grey, so that's the "dulux rebuild" colour...

Regards
Ray

[harty69]

Hi Ray
if I ran down the spindle I would have to redress from the mentioned wheel slippage on restart

I will get some pics later for you

so will yours be waldown blue you probably have a bit of paint left over

cheers
Harty

[Greg Q]

After seeing Phil F's Repco-Power surface grinder in action I have wanted one. And a T & C grinder too. I'm thinking that buying one or both before we move down to Tassie would be a good move. And a shaper. And an FP-4, but you get my drift.

Peter H...I still have your iso40 drill arbor here. PM me your address

[harty69]

After seeing Phil F's Repco-Power surface grinder in action I have wanted one. And a T & C grinder too. I'm thinking that buying one or both before we move down to Tassie would be a good move. And a shaper. And an FP-4, but you get my drift.

Peter H...I still have your iso40 drill arbor here. PM me your address

Hi Greg

Yes we get your drift you need to hurry up and start buying

I left the arbor so I could come back for a coffe and some sinterlating repartee

ps hows Michael going with his mill

cheers
Harty

[Toggy]

RayG

There is a wheel dressing attachment (rusty cast) and a wheel holding collet on ebay for a Macson.

Ken

[PDW]

After seeing Phil F's Repco-Power surface grinder in action I have wanted one. And a T & C grinder too. I'm thinking that buying one or both before we move down to Tassie would be a good move. And a shaper. And an FP-4, but you get my drift.

First thing you need to buy is a container or 2. Lot simpler moving your stuff.

Not a lot of machinery available locally though I do know someone with an FP2. It'll be for sale as part of his estate, though, if then.

PDW

[RayG]

so will yours be waldown blue you probably have a bit of paint left over
cheers
Harty

Nope, more rattle can ..blue-greyish... I'm saving the Waldown Blue, in case a radial arm Waldown comes along....



Regards
Ray

PS... Thanks Ken for the ebay tip.. fingers crossed.

[Steamwhisperer]

Gees Ray
When does the Ray and Bob school of reconditioning classes start. I love your work.

Phil

[harty69]

Here you go Ray

This is the setup I used for the bar
Attachment 199953
Attachment 199954
The sensitive work head was a right pain in the butt to get aligned as it tilts and swivels and not having a known reference bar it was a bit of grind and adjust as you go
Attachment 199955
Attachment 199956
it was hard to get a decent shot of the surface finnish

PS If any one as a spare right hand side table stop let me know I am missing one

cheers
Harty

[RayG]

Thanks Phil, I started out with the intention of just doing what had to be done to get the machine fully operational, but because the previous owner had done such a shoddy job and painted over critical bits of the machine, I ended up having to clean paint off, and then felt obliged to fix up the paint work... it's a slippery slope, once you start it's hard to know when to stop... I guess one solution would be to not start... but it's now too late for that....

Regards
Ray

[RayG]

Hi Harty, I cross posted.

Nice finish..

Thanks for the pictures, that all makes sense, I think RC has some spare centers, don't you mean left hand center?

Is that a live center? Mine are both dead centers..

Your taper adjustment is on the left, mine is on the right.. there are other differences in the castings as well...

I ran a DTI across the table earlier, and it's flat ( better than 0.01 at least) for most of the way, but then dips down about 0.1mm towards the end, After I get it off the skates and levelled, I'll recheck it.

Regards
Ray

[harty69]

Hi Harty, I cross posted.

Nice finish..

Thanks for the pictures, that all makes sense, I think RC has some spare centers, don't you mean left hand center?

Is that a live center? Mine are both dead centers..

Your taper adjustment is on the left, mine is on the right.. there are other differences in the castings as well...

I ran a DTI across the table earlier, and it's flat ( better than 0.01 at least) for most of the way, but then dips down about 0.1mm towards the end, After I get it off the skates and levelled, I'll recheck it.

Regards
Ray

Nop I mean the right hand table stop on the front to limit the table travel

its a dead center but i can put a live center in its got a no2 morse taper in the LHS

its a bit different the grinding wheel arbors a no3 morse taper with the wheel flange on the end and I got 6 with the grinder and can run 2 simultaneously
i have been lucky with mine mechanically its in terrific condition i brought it from a friend who brought it second hand in 1985 and never used it all the accessories where wrapped in newspaper from 1985 cosmetically it need some love but that will come later having too much fun making things smooth and round for now

cheers
Harty