what timber and where to get it (Brisbane)

[ElizaLeahy]

I want to make a teardrop sort of instrument for my friend to play at medieval fairs. She plays the uke, so I'm going to string and tune it the same. What timber do I use for the sides, so I can steam bend them, and where would I get it in Brisbane? I'd like something a little thicker then a modern uke or guitar if possible.

Thanks

[Stopper]

I would recommend blackwood as a proven tonewood. There's some nice sets on ebay at the moment (shameless plug). There are also a number of suppliers here who can help you out.
cheers
Steve

[woodturner777]

I will second Steve reply - Blackwood you cant go wrong, as for tear drop shape type in google tear drop shape stringed musical instruments photos only and you will get plennty of idea. Regards Bob

[kiwigeo]

Indian Rosewood my preference for people new to the game. Bends easily and the low grade stuff is still fairly cheap and quite useable. I source mine from LMI. If buying off ebay watch out for and avoid poor quality slab sawn plantation from SE Asia.

Tassie BW is a nice wood but the only thing to watch is staining if bending using a blanket and metal slats.

You mention making a "teardrop design". Are you talking about a bowl backed instrument? If this is the case then be aware building an instrument with a bowl shaped body is alot more challenging than something like a uke with back and sides. I build lutes and my bowl backs are built up with strips of wood laid over an internal mold. Its not a project Id reccomend for a complete beginner.

[ElizaLeahy]

What's LMI?

Thanks for the replies.

Something like this is what I have in mind, only different shape without a waist

Building a Medieval Vielle Fiddle or Renaissance Fiddle

[kiwigeo]

Okay I get a better picture now of what you have in mind. The only challenge for new players would be carving the rosette into the top. There are a few tricks to this task and because youre actually cutting the design into the top you dont have any margin for stuff ups. On my first build lute I did 5 practise runs first on scrap spruce before doing the final rosette.....the latter took about 3 days to complete. Commercially available tools didnt do a good job so I ended up making my own set of mini chisels from hacksaw blades.

LMI = Luthiers Mercantile International. One of the luthier supply sites in the US. Stewmac is the other main supplier. I use both for sourcing tools but tend to favour LMI for wood. That said a majority of my top wood is sourced from suppliers in Canada while back and side material comes from a couple of Australian suppliers.

[ElizaLeahy]

I'll stick to Australian wood if I can.

As for the rosette I'll simplify that! I have a dremel and have done a little carving with it. I might even make it as a separate bit and fit it in, that way I'll only be working on a small piece and if I stuff it up it won't matter so much!

If I went for recycled timber, what should I look for?

[kiwigeo]

I'll stick to Australian wood if I can.

As for the rosette I'll simplify that! I have a dremel and have done a little carving with it. I might even make it as a separate bit and fit it in, that way I'll only be working on a small piece and if I stuff it up it won't matter so much!

If I went for recycled timber, what should I look for?

If Australian wood is your preference then Tassie Blackwood for back and sides. For the top King Billy Pine might work.

Re the rosette, a Dremel might be useful for rough cutting the pattern but for a rosette you want nice sharp lines so a razor sharp chisel thats as thin as possible without having too much flex is the only suitable tool...especially if youre cutting into spruce. With spruce and other woods prone to splitting easily along the grain you need to plan your cuts very carefully...cutting across grain cuts first and then joining up same with along grain cuts. Minor gaffs can often be repaired with a bit of hide glue but major gaffs will usually mean starting again!

See here for rosette cutting process on my Renaissance lute: Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum • View topic - Lute Progress -

Fitting a rosette carved into a seperate piece of wood is an option. Ouds usually have a seperate rosette though its usually made from bone:

Khalaf Oud Luthiery: Making Bone Rosettes

Mike's Oud Forums - Powered by XMB

[Phil Mailloux]

Check out Lazarides Timber - Fine timber merchants they're in Banyo but you'll have to buy full boards from them, they do also have an area at the front of the shop where you can buy offcuts. They pretty much sell any timber you're looking for, local or exotic. Not a lot of figured exotics though.

[CeeTee]

Hello, Eliza,

I see a reference to Lazarides above. They are good and have a wide range of timber, including exotic timber, however, I have found them expensive.

I would recommend Trevor Gaskell of TG Creations,in Northgate. Trevor has a really wide range of timbers, a lot of it is Tasmanian timber, and generally very pretty figured or flamed timber, and in varying sizes. I think his prices are quite good too. He has a post here on Woodwork forums (Timber Sales), that you should be able to use to contact him.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f222/t...imbers-145957/

(I hope that link works!)

Bob of Tasmanian Tonewoods is also very good - he will post timber to you. Link at the top of the Musical Instruments page.


Kind regards,

[ElizaLeahy]

Thank you CeeTee. I bought a lump of QLD maple for the body and a lovely piece of huon pine for the soundboard (please tell me that HP is fine for soundboards?)

I'll give Trevor a call tomorrow. I have enough of the HP to make several instruments and thought maybe I should start with a lyre as it would be easier.

[woodturner777]

Thank you CeeTee. I bought a lump of QLD maple for the body and a lovely piece of huon pine for the soundboard (please tell me that HP is fine for soundboards?)

I'll give Trevor a call tomorrow. I have enough of the HP to make several instruments and thought maybe I should start with a lyre as it would be easier.

Hi Eliza, Huon pine should work well for the soundboard as long it is quartersawn.
Regards Robert