Arnie's shed makeover

[arniew]

I've been inspired by the many and varied shed fitouts and builds on this forum and can't tell you how happy to be in the middle of my own!

I'm busy lining my shed (12 x 8 m) and building a few rooms to serve various purposes. At one end there are three rooms - one for light duty work, mainly electronics, a beer brewing area with exhaust fan and beer cellar, a lounge/recreation area with taps, tv and the like. I think the lounge will double as a finishing area if need be.

From here there is a storage area with industrial shelving and space for garden tools, fuels and the like.

And then the workshop area. I've tried to make this part as open and spacious as I could (while fitting in all those other bits)

I'm new to having space and I don't yet have much equipment. I currently have a Festool plunge saw, Festool sander and one of their shop vacs. I also have the multi-function table.

I have a small router that I'm not really happy with.

I'm about to pension off a Triton MK3 with saw and a nasty sliding compound mitre saw.

I've got a large Vicmarc lathe and well set up for turning (dusty, grinder, tools).

I'm hoping to get into making decent furniture - starting with a kitchen fit out.

I'm thinking that a good table saw, jointer, thicknesser (possibly combined) and routing table are essential items. The festool can rip large sheets and do the work of a SCMS.

Sadly I need to share workshop space with a bobcat (ok I've got that for the fun of it!) and the interior minister's car. This means most things will need to be mobile.

So a few questions. Does the list of machinery (TS etc.) sound right?
Can a table saw be made mobile and still work effectively? Can I do the same for a decent workbench?

cheers, Arnie

[BobL]

So a few questions. Does the list of machinery (TS etc.) sound right?
Can a table saw be made mobile and still work effectively? Can I do the same for a decent workbench?

The list ounds fine.
Yes you can mobilize pretty well any machine.
If you are fitting from scratch you may want to build in some ducting for dust extraction. And get your dc outside.

[arniew]

The list ounds fine.
Yes you can mobilize pretty well any machine.
If you are fitting from scratch you may want to build in some ducting for dust extraction. And get your dc outside.

Thanks BobL. I've been reading your threads on DEs and so just bought a 3HP unit that I intend to fit 6" ducting to. It's not clear in the sketchup image, but there is one pipe in place running behind the lathe, BS & PD.

I intend to build an enclosure for the DE to the side of the shed near the lathe just outside the roller door.

The shed floor is concrete, so I don't imagine underfloor to TS is likely, so are there tips for the best way to connect overhead and not have hoses get in the way? I'll also need a power o/l overhead.

[BobL]

Thanks BobL. I've been reading your threads on DEs and so just bought a 3HP unit that I intend to fit 6" ducting to. It's not clear in the sketchup image, but there is one pipe in place running behind the lathe, BS & PD.

Excellent.

I intend to build an enclosure for the DE to the side of the shed near the lathe just outside the roller door.

This is not a good idea if you want to keep the roller door open. The DE creates a negative pressure inisde the shed so having the DE vent near a door means the fine exhaust dust goes straight back inside the shed. the vent point should be as far away from any door or window that you wish to keep open as possible and preferably downwind of the door/window.

The shed floor is concrete, so I don't imagine underfloor to TS is likely, so are there tips for the best way to connect overhead and not have hoses get in the way? I'll also need a power o/l overhead.

Not really. Having tried 1) overhead 2) along the floor and now under floor, I would now even go so far as to get a concrete cutter in to cut a channel in the floor. BTW Under floor really only works if a machine is in a fixed place and seeing as you need your TS to be mobile it will have to be over head or along the floor. If you have enough height you could try a piece of flexy on a pulley so you can hoik it up out of the way when you don't need it.

[arniew]

This is not a good idea if you want to keep the roller door open. The DE creates a negative pressure inisde the shed so having the DE vent near a door means the fine exhaust dust goes straight back inside the shed. the vent point should be as far away from any door or window that you wish to keep open as possible and preferably downwind of the door/window.

Thanks for the heads up, and I do remember reading your note on that although it didn't sink in. I do intend to have that roller open as often as possible, especially when I'm on the lathe. The lathe is positioned so I have a view out back over the glorious Edna Walling garden over the neighbour's fence.

I can build the enclosure another 4 metres down that wall. Would that be a problem with duct losses?

I'll try out overhead ducting to start with. If I settle on a spot for the TS I can always make a mess of the floor then.

[BobL]

Thanks for the heads up, and I do remember reading your note on that although it didn't sink in. I do intend to have that roller open as often as possible, especially when I'm on the lathe. The lathe is positioned so I have a view out back over the glorious Edna Walling garden over the neighbour's fence.

I can build the enclosure another 4 metres down that wall. Would that be a problem with duct losses?

Remember that after the cyclone, only invisible dust remains so a minimum air speed is not needed to hold the dust in suspension and large cross sectional area with lower air speed will be better than 6" ducting.

I'll try out overhead ducting to start with. If I settle on a spot for the TS I can always make a mess of the floor then.

Cheers