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Thread: what hand plane to choose?
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14th February 2005, 11:03 AM #1Senior Member
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what hand plane to choose?
Hi guys,
I would like to buy a hand plane but I have not experience in this type of hand tools.
what would you recommend for a novice ?
I don't want to buy a crappy tool but something quite reasonable that I can use now to practise but also later when I am more familiar with the tool
thanks
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14th February 2005 11:03 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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14th February 2005, 11:14 AM #2
How much do you want to spend?
Do you have a preference for a Stanley/Bailey style of plane, or would a wooden plane do the job for you?
Most people will say that the modern Stanley and Record planes aren't worth buying unless you're prepared to spend a lot of time tuning them up.
Probably not something a novice would want to do anyway.
Of course, you can always get an old Stanley from eBay.
These come up all the time and a #4 in reasonable condition should only cost you $40 or so.
So I guess I'm saying "it depends"
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14th February 2005, 11:21 AM #3Senior Member
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I guess I can spend up to $70 for a plane
I don't have any preference regarding the brand, type, etc....
Of course I would not mind a japanese one since it seems they ar ethe best but for $70 that might not be the case
also something I forgot to mention in the previous email, it's what I am going to do with it.
I have around 30 boards of nice timbers I bought last year and most of these boards have a planned/dressed side and a rough side (well not that rough but something you need to plan)
for my last project I went to all the trouble of ripping the rough side with the table saw. that was too much work since the boards were too wide for my table saw and I had to cut them in half, rip them, rejoin them, etc...
Since these boards are nice and wide, I would prefer to leave them the way they are
I was thinking of a thicknesser but at the moment I can not justify $1200 or more
So I might try with a hand plan
and if it does not work, I will still have it and it can be useful
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14th February 2005, 11:31 AM #4
Well if that is what you want to do you will need to use a try or jointing plane.
Like a Stanley #7.
Unfortunately, I don't think that you will pick up an old one of these for $70.
At least not one that is any good.
You could be lucky though. Keep your eye on eBay.
Good luck
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14th February 2005, 11:32 AM #5
If you want to dimension and square those boards with a handplane then you'll probably need more than one. If they're in decent shape you'll need a good 'jack' (#5) plane and then a smoother (bailey #4) to finish off. The jack plane could probably do it all though if it was fettled nicely.
Theres lots and lots of old Aussie Pope Falcons around which are pretty servicable. I'd advise getting one that does need a bit of work as you'll learn a bit while you're trying to get it working.Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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14th February 2005, 11:34 AM #6Senior Member
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Any recommendations for getting these planes ? (shops, websites, etc...)
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14th February 2005, 11:53 AM #7Senior Member
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Also I am not too worry for jointing the boards as I can do it with a router and a couple of biscuits
I am more concerned about smooth them
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14th February 2005, 07:41 PM #8
Buying Second Hand Planes
Dont overlook the good old "garage sale". I have seen various tools that are sold at these venues, for one reason or another. Some are in average condition, some are just junk, however I have found some in excellent condition, at bargain rock bottom prices. Knowing what is the right price for what is offered for sale is the trick. Research the prices of the tool you seek on ebay or at the local Sunday markets(you will find that a lot of second hand traders at these markets, also search the garage sales to get their stock and thier stock can be sold at over inflated prices). Oh yes, when you go on a search, I always have a "square" in the car to check the accuracy of items that are presented for sale. This may quell any heart ache when you get home and find out the item you have bought, is out of wack!
Good luck!
Macca
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14th February 2005, 07:49 PM #9
I would tend to agree with LineLefty, get yourself a #5 or #6 & a #4 second hand if possible.
There are PLENTY of web pages on how to fettle a plane & it's not hard!
BE WARNED!!!!
Buying hand planes is a VERY adictive habit!!!!. It's EXTREAMLY hard to stop at one or two once you have fettled your first plane & it works beautifully!
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14th February 2005, 08:36 PM #10It's EXTREAMLY hard to stop at one or two
For a one-plane-fits-all - a long smoother or a short try plane - I'd get a #5 or #5-1/2 Stanley. The "1/2" denotes a wider and, therefore, heavier plane. Both are the same length. These are pretty common on eBay. If you want a more dedicated smoother, then the #4 is indicated. These are even more common. All are in your price range.
But do get some first hand instruction in sharpening, setting it up, and using a plane. Otherwise you may become very frustrated. Learn to read the grain. Once these basic steps are managed (we've all been there), you will not look back.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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14th February 2005, 09:57 PM #11Originally Posted by macca172Have a nice day - Cheers
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14th February 2005, 10:53 PM #12Originally Posted by craigbHave a nice day - Cheers
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15th February 2005, 10:13 AM #13Senior Member
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Thanks guys
Very valuable infos
I'll keep you inform about my research
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18th February 2005, 06:36 PM #14
What are 8's worth?
At the top end of the market:
Eights:
type USD date %Japan Notes
12 132.50 12/02/03 95 SW, Fine
7 142.50 26/03/03 90 Fine, 1909 iron, 7-24-88 on lateral
11 91.00 15/04/03 95 Fine, shiny handles
16 395.58 23/04/03 Mint in original (brown cardboard) box
19 113.06 20/05/03 90 Fine, no box
19 111.00 11/05/03 95 Fine, no box
2 399.00 16/06/03 95 Fine, no box, A1 TM
11 76.00 25/06/03 98 Fine
16 91.00 30/08/03 New condition, no box
19 125.00 24/09/03 90 Fine, worn finish on handles
16 100.00 17/11/03 97 Fine,
6 154.05 28/11/03 75 Good
19 153.49 19/12/03 90 Fine
19 138.50 26/01/04 New condition, nickelled Y lever
19 241.61 17/02/04 Mint condition, no box
13 127.50 01/03/04 90 Fine, decal on tote
19 237.50 11/06/04 99 Fine, tarnished surfaces, unstamped lateral
6 100.00 28/06/04 QTM, fine, complete
13 155.83 22/09/04 AASW, fine, decal on tote
14 214.00 27/12/04 New condition, decal on tote, AASW
EightC's
16 117.75 24/02/03 85 Good, BB mark
19 139.49 23/03/03 95 Fine, no box
13 177.50 15/10/03 90 Fine, decal on tote
8 175.50 06/01/04 95 Fine, Q TM
16 357.50 22/03/04 Mint in original brown cardboard box, no raised ribs at toe or heel
16 292.27 30/07/04 Mint in bordered label box
13 153.50 03/11/04 95 Fine, complete
relatively cheap I'd say lest you splurge $1200 on a LN.
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18th February 2005, 07:27 PM #15relatively cheap I'd say lest you splurge $1200 on a LN.
Thanks for the info on the #8s. I find it very helpful as I am looking for a decent one at this time. However I must point out that the LN #8 is a different beast and relatively cheap at the price compared to an old Stanley #8.
Firstly, the LN costs $450-500 (not $1200) USD - unless the conversion rates have plummeted in the last day!! :eek:
Secondly, the LN is a Bedrock design, which is an advancement on the #8. It would be more appropriate to compare to a Stanley Bedrock #608 (and to think I passed up one at $75 AUD some years ago!!!!! ).
Also the LN is better made out of better materials. For example, just changing the #8 blade and chipbreaker to an LN replacement (which comes standard with the LN) will add another $100 USD to the price of the #8. I wish I could afford the extra for the LN but I can't so the Stanley will have to do.
Regards from Perth
Derek