Preparing blanks

[rmf78]

Hi All,

As a beginner turner one of the big issues/challenges for me is obtaining wood without spending $$$!

I've got all my friends on the lookout for felled trees, but as I live in inner Melbourne (Prahran) it isn't something that happens too often and there are usually just massive cedar pines that are cut down.

Either way I have a couple of nice big pieces of pine and the other day picked up some gorgeous Eucalyptus. the issue I have is that I don't own a chainsaw (have never used one) and am not sure where I can go to get assistance in cutting the timber to remove the piths and prepare the timber into bowl or spindle blanks?

Any ideas on how to proceed? I'm always on the lookout for wood so ideas about how I can do this myself would be best.

Thanks for the help as always

Ron

[TTIT]

I'd suggest joining the nearest club and seeing if someone there can help you out - would be a lot quicker and cheaper than coughing up for a big bandsaw or a chainsaw and a course on how to use it (safely). . . . . or you could just break them down into blanks with a handsaw . . . don't laugh! - that's all I had to start off

[_fly_]

I agree with TTIT.
Join the local mens shed or woodworking club.
They will have the tools you want to use, Show you how to use them safely and more than likely have a supply of donated wood ready for you to use at minimal cost.
Peter

[hughie]

As a beginner turner one of the big issues/challenges for me is obtaining wood without spending $$$!

Nah , not really chase down all the tree loppers in your area and you will have more timber than you can handle.

I've got all my friends on the lookout for felled trees, but as I live in inner Melbourne (Prahran) it isn't something that happens too often and there are usually just massive cedar pines that are cut down.

Chainsaw,is a must you can rough out your blanks with one...very rough Chop your trees in half down the centre as you need toget rid of the pith quick time. Seal the end grain with paint, varnish, watered down PVA glue or whatever you can get.


As Vern [Titt] says get along to a turning club asap for assistance and free tution


But I would seriously look at a chainsaw first off. The bandsaw can come later as you get into it.

[turnerted]

An electric chainsaw is not a big expense, not much over $100 and if you want to remain friends with your neighbours, probably all you should be using if you live in a builtup area but get someone to show you how to use it and how to sharpen it.
Ted

[justturnin]

An electric chainsaw is not a big expense, not much over $100 and if you want to remain friends with your neighbours, probably all you should be using if you live in a builtup area but get someone to show you how to use it and how to sharpen it.
Ted

This was going to be my recommendation as well. I have a 20" Stihl and it is loud and heavy. It is great when there is a lot to be done but if I just need one or 2 cuts I will put them off until I need to make more. I have been considering an electric myself.

[vk4]

No 1, find a club and join
No 2 get tuition on chain saw , THESE ARE DANGEROUS,and you must know what you are doing.
No 3 club will also have turning tuition & and just as importantly how to sharpen your tools.

My 2 cents worth .


Jeff

[Oiliver]

My father has an electric chainsaw, and to be completely frank it is barely better than a handsaw. I say this because it has such little power when you are cutting anything bigger than 2 inch diameter, because it runs out of battery at a pretty quick rate, and because it doesnt sharpen up anywhere near as well as the chains on our regular chainsaws.

Admitedly it was just a cheapy one, but you definitely get what you pay for, and I would have serious reservations about it making it through a decent log, such as your cedar pine.

My recommendation would be to ask either someone in the know about chainys, or to ask at a chainsaw shop if an electric would be suitable, and if so, what a decent brand/model would be.

Good luck, Oli

[Pagie]

I,m up in Emerald. If you want the wood cut up bring it to me and I will cut it for you.

P M me if you want me to cut it for you.

[bowl-basher]

My father has an electric chainsaw, and to be completely frank it is barely better than a handsaw. I say this because it has such little power when you are cutting anything bigger than 2 inch diameter, because it runs out of battery at a pretty quick rate, and because it doesnt sharpen up anywhere near as well as the chains on our regular chainsaws.

Admitedly it was just a cheapy one, but you definitely get what you pay for, and I would have serious reservations about it making it through a decent log, such as your cedar pine.

My recommendation would be to ask either someone in the know about chainys, or to ask at a chainsaw shop if an electric would be suitable, and if so, what a decent brand/model would be.

Good luck, Oli

The battery ones are not worth a stamp.....A 240v good brand is very good
and you stay friends with the next doors and SWMBO
regards
Bowl-Basher

[vk4]

I have a 240Volt Home-lite Chainsaw,which I have used to cut a 350mm Dia Camphor Laural , right down the middle, with no issues regards POWER.

These 240Volt saws have 2400Watt motor and if 1Hp = 750Watts, then you have a 3.2Hp motor, NOT SO SMALL !!!.

These are fine at home where you have access to Power, but in the bush , a Petrol motor is necessary, a 350-400mm Bar is normally adequate.

Jeff

[Paul39]

I second mains powered chain saws. I have several, I keep finding them dirt cheap used with dull chains. I also have a 20 inch Stihl gas powered.

Logs can be split down the middle with a splitting wedge and a small sledge hammer.

I cut blocks to the length of the diameter, split down the middle, cut off the sharp corners with the chainsaw, mount on a faceplate, make round on the lathe and rough the outside, make a spigot or recess for the chuck, remove from faceplate, grab with chuck, rough inside.

If you have no chuck, turn the bottom, leaving enough timber for screws to hold. Remove from faceplate, turn around and hold bottom against faceplate with tail stock with a block of wood between center and timber. Rotate by hand and knock the timber toward running centered with a chunk of wood or purposed made club until it runs more or less true.

Check by putting the tool rest close to the rim and turning by hand and bumping the timber with the club. Put screws in the bottom if you have room or mark by rotating blank with pencil held at rim of faceplate. Remove blank and face plate and screw face plate on bottom, remount and re cut outside as it will not run true in spite of how much care you take in the reversing. Then cut the inside and finish the bowl without removing if you have a dry bowl blank.

If wet, rough out, remove and use your favorite curing method. When remounted, two of the screw holes will be close, remount, turn back round and finish.

[joe greiner]

What he said, except I don't have a gas powered.

Regarding mains power, I have a small generator, bought originally to power a concrete mixer in case of (frequent, alas) outages. Also once very convenient for rotisserie spray finishing in case of the same. With a small wagon and about 25ft of extension cord, Bob's your uncle, anywhere.

Cheers,
Joe

[redlaci2004]

My local tree lopper will cut large pieces of timber down for me. Its always good to get into the good book sight these guys, always very helpful and handy, especially in this situation.

Alternatively, start off small, again tree loppers are a great source of smaller branches that are very good for spindle work.