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Thread: A Real Workshop
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25th June 2012, 10:33 PM #61
Love seeing big timber being worked......
You keep making them and I keep watching
No joke, a bloody fine job your doing. Be proud....
Russellvapourforge.com
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25th June 2012 10:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th June 2012, 12:36 AM #62
Why do something the easy way when you can make it more difficult?
The mortice & tenon joints lock the beam to the post with no need for pins or bolts. I will pin them for extra security.
I have plans and I do the calculations. So far the calculations are supporting the measurements.
I feel more confident when I can see what the joints and angles will look like.
7 degrees is the design slope for the pergola and shed roof.
On the shed I will cut the join as you say Ian.
But for the pergola I have another plan.
I want the top of the rafters to be level with the top of the beams.
The clean look appeals to me.
They use metal hangers on pine pergolas but I wont be using them.
I wish I could work faster but it is taking a long time to cut all the joints. Getting rid of the bulk of the waste isn't too bad it is the trimming to fit that is time consuming.
Tomorrow I have to fit the knee braces to the front posts and beams. I can get rid of most of the waste with the router. Then it is all chisel work to create the angle.Scally
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The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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26th June 2012, 03:58 PM #63GOLD MEMBER
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Haven't read of any termite treatment being applied under the slab??
Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture
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27th June 2012, 07:03 PM #64
Snow White & the Huntsman
I woke up to the sound of rain.
Checked weather forecast..........5 - 10mm 90% likely.
I decided to give my hands a rest from the chisels and went to the movies.
Charlize is even hot as an evil Queen.Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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27th June 2012, 11:57 PM #65
Mortices
I am nearly finished the mortices.
I will attache a few pics to explain my process.
After wrestling the post and matching beam into place I mark the location of the tenon on the post.
First I make a saw cut for the back of the beam and use that as the back shoulder of the mortice.
Most of the wast is removed with a large drill to full mortice depth then a long straight router bit.
The router also gives me straight sides for the mortice. It gets to about half the full depth.
Then I do multiple cuts with the saw to help establish the recess for the beam.
It doesn't take long to chisel out the waste for the recess.Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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28th June 2012, 12:08 AM #66
Chisel the mortice
Now I use the slicks to chop out the rest of the mortice.
The established sides guide the deep cuts.
A large hammer and the heavy slicks remove the waste pretty quickly.
When I think the mortice is close I do a test fit.
Then a little fine tuning and it should be finished.Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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28th June 2012, 12:44 AM #67
Hi Scally
I love watching your workshop come to life
I think what you are calling a "heavy slick" is actually either a post and beam or a firmer chisel, i don't think it's a sash mortice chisel, but it could be.
slicks are really a paring tool, usually with a very long handle
my dad has an old short handled paring chisel which may have belonged to his grandfather -- it's about 16" long overall, 1-1/2" wide with very flat bevels meaning that the blade is no more than about 3mm thick at its thickest point.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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28th June 2012, 01:06 AM #68
Ian
I don't know what it is but a slick is what I have heard big chisels called.
This one is 38mm (~1 1/2") wide and about 8mm thick.
The handle is short.
I saw a video of a guy using a similar chisel refining a scarf joint in a big beam.He was using it to cut fine shavings. Not using it like a mortice chisel.
The other, narrower chisel has a long blade and slightly longer handle.
I have seen pics of big chisels with much longer handles.
The weight of these chisel does a good job chopping the mortices. It is also very nice taking shavings off the tenons.
My two morticing chisels, 1/4" and 3/8" dig quite deep but are difficult to use in my wide mortices.
I would buy a pair of the big chisels if I could find them (just in case I ever get the need to do big mortices again!).Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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28th June 2012, 02:39 AM #69Senior Member
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great thread!
its a big ass framing chisel, slicks have very long handles and you dont generally strike a slick, you use them for paring
lovely joinery but i would have to agree its the wrong joint for that purpose, but whats done is done and you have to make what you have work, sitting it on the post 25mm is a start.
i'd have some other comments as well but i dont think you would like to hear them. good luck with the project, the timber looks fantastic, chunky sizes always look impressive
cheers
chippy
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28th June 2012, 10:47 AM #70
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28th June 2012, 11:10 AM #71
I have one and its used often as my bottom scraper when wanting a flat surface in a bowl.
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28th June 2012, 01:12 PM #72
Yeh wheelin that sounds like much more fun. Not that I do any turning.
Christos I take back what I said about liking your jokes.
Ch!ppy a "big ass framing chisel" sounds appropriate to me.
I appreciate you not telling what else I have done wrong. My sense of humour is waning. But I would be happy to hear them at a later stage......just in case.
Once I had cut the tenons, there was no turning back, as you said.
I do expect some difficulties trying to assemble the thing. Unfortunately my generous neighbour, with the machines, can be very obstreperous when things don't go right.
It could be a very interesting process.Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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28th June 2012, 01:35 PM #73Senior Member
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nah, no point picking over bits already done, thats unproductive and a bit cruel too, they only need pointing out so you can provide other measures to make it work. i was going to make comments on what i think you said you doing next, no bolts, no saddles for the rafters, frame height etc
cheers
chippy
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28th June 2012, 06:58 PM #74
Knee braces
I made knee braces up to give a bit of stability.
They took a bit to fit because the boards weren't excatley square. Plus there were a few rusty nails to avoid.
It took some convincing to pull the post/beam/brace together.
I am not looking forward to wrestling them when we try to put it up.
All the mortices and tenons are done and have been checked for fit.
Posts have been cut to length.
Rebates cut on the base of the posts to fit the stirrups.
A few of the beams need the bevel put on there top edges.
A bit of tinkering and I could stand the posts.
Then I'll start on the joins for the rafters. I will explain the plan before I cut them chippy.Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
-
28th June 2012, 07:28 PM #75
Loving the look of those huge beams mate. Spot on!
Just one small suggestion....Are you planning on running a plane along all the edges by any chance?
I've found just a little bit off makes the world of difference.
Cheers
JimBeing happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections....
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