walls and concrete slab

[Tonyz]

I bet this has been done to death...but whats the latest thoughts on a corro shed and concrete pad.
1. erect shed then pour and level concrete inside
2. pour slab and (hopefully) have everything square so sheets dont have gaps..


If its the latter is a run of silicone put down to prevent water getting inside.?

[rwbuild]

I bet this has been done to death...but whats the latest thoughts on a corro shed and concrete pad.
1. erect shed then pour and level concrete inside
2. pour slab and (hopefully) have everything square so sheets dont have gaps..


If its the latter is a run of silicone put down to prevent water getting inside.?

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES pour concrete upto custom orb or any profiled metal cladding. There is an electrolytic and chemical reaction between the concrete and the clading. Pour your slab, erect walls, clad and then fit propriety profiled strips matching the cladding between cladding and concrete. Keep the cladding a minimum 75mm above FINISHED ground or paving. Putting a plastic membrane between the cladding and concrete prior to pouring doesn't work because the constant expansion co-efficient erodes the membrane and you end up with the same problem.

[Tonyz]

OK Fine thats the answer then, no question no doubts.

Cheers thats one prob put of the way.

[Yonnee]

My concreters loved it that they could do my non-urgent slab when it was too wet to any of their other jobs, as they had a roof and walls to work under. A little cheaper for me too.
I painted the inside face of the wall sheets with Orminoid butimen paint before the concrete went it. 7 years and counting... no sign of corrosion.

[rod1949]

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES pour concrete upto custom orb or any profiled metal cladding. Pour your slab, erect walls, clad and then fit propriety profiled strips matching the cladding between cladding and concrete. Keep the cladding a minimum 75mm above FINISHED ground or paving. Putting a plastic membrane between the cladding and concrete prior to pouring doesn't work because the constant expansion co-efficient erodes the membrane and you end up with the same problem.

[BobL]

My concreters loved it that they could do my non-urgent slab when it was too wet to any of their other jobs, as they had a roof and walls to work under. A little cheaper for me too.

Same with one of mine as well.

The colorbond in my new shed is 75 mm above the ground outside. Inside I lined the floor level of the shed with 135 mm wide old jarrah floor boards so the concrete floor sits inside the jarrah form. I then just filled the gaps between the colorbond and the jarrah with expander foam. If the white ants eat out the jarrah I'll just fill the gaps with more expander foam. I doubt they will eat the jarrah as it comes from a renno to our house and they have been laying amongst termite infested ground for years and they haven't touched them. I'm pretty sure the boards are loaded with something nasty.

[plantagenon]

Tonto

I had this problem also of stting a tin shed on a concrete shed and water getting underneath. I tried a few remedies including silicon and bitumen rubber but nothing worked until I used Gripset. Below is a cut from a previous post of mine. I have had it in place now for months and not a drop of water gets in. It is easy to apply.

........

I have followed the instructions provided by Gripset.

First, I scrapped away all the silicone and other rubbish from the outside base of the shed and then washed and scrubbed the slab outside and the first few inches of the shed wall with acetone.

Next a slurry of Gripset Prep Coat and sand and cement (goes a blue colour) brushed on the slab outside the shed and a couple of inches up the wall of the shed. I let that dry for a couple of hours. The dry product was really sticking to the metal and concrete.

Finally, a firm mixture of sand and cement with Gripset Prep Coat as the wetting agent. I then applied this over the outside base of the shed and the slab as a fillet at a 45 degree angle. They recommended a minimum thickness of 2cm, however, mine will be bit thicker. Its currently setting so only time will tell if it works. If not, I'll raise the slab height inside the shed but that is major surgery and unfortunately wont stop water getting into the insulation unless I cut a couple of inches from the bottom of the lining boards and build up a dam with the concrete.

THE COST SO FAR - From Bunnings

4 litres of Gripset Prep Coat - $49-00
Sand and cement mixture in a premixed bag - $7-50 for 9kg

I have only done one side of the shed (with a bit left over) but if the other sides need doing it will take a total of 3 bags of the cement mixture and 2 tubs of the Prep Coat for all 4 sides.

The alternative product recommended by Gripset was Cemseal but only for the final firm mixture with the cement and sand. It is $69 a 4 litre bucket which I wasn't prepared to spend in case this doesn't work. However, their tech said Prep Coat would do the job equally as well. As you can imagine I am waiting to see what will happen when it rains. If it is going to work we are now guaranteed a drought

[bungleu]

Hi I just built a boat shed for building my 6.9m boat in. It is a 9 by 6 by 3 Stratco Homeshed. I followed the advice of a builder and put the shed up first then the concreters put in a 110mm slab. Its much faster and easier than trying to do a slab first.
In regards to corrosion there isn't much along the bottom of my old shed where the concrete is up against the walls. So I didnt worry about that.

When you get the concrete it's a good idea to ask the concreter for a lip at the entrance so dust and dirt is mostly stopped at the door.

Also, definately hire a duct lifter or similar to put up your beams and doors - so much easier than following the instructions which said to hold the beams in position at each end and do up the bolts at the same time! We found this almost impossible - the beams would just twist down.

Also don't forget to check and recheck you diagonals and square everything up - I used a hand winch to bring the walls level. Probably the best tip from the builder was to construct the walls on the ground first then just pull them up into the foundation holes. All the gutters and wall sheets were put on first - much easier than trying to level up gutters later.


Cheers.