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5th August 2012, 05:32 PM #1Member
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Vintage drum resto - spraying nitro from a can
I've got a couple of late 1960s drums in natural maple that have some issues with their finish - one (a snare) has had someone do a brushed lacquer finish of some kind where you can see the brush strokes....plus someone went amok when changing snare strainer, then changing it back, then changing to something new so I'll need to fill quite a few holes anyway.
The other is a 16" floor tom which a professional did a beautiful shiny new polyurethane finish on....he even took the time to perfectly match the "honeying" but boy is it way too shiny in comparison to the rest of the kit and though beautifully done it just looks, you know, wrong.
I'm considering refinishing both of these in period appropriate nitrocellulose lacquer but don't have a spray gun, booth or anything. Short of getting a pro to do it (which would be stupid expensive) the alternative would be to get some cans and try doing that.
Anyone had any experiencing doing this? How many coats would you need to do and when and how would you cut it back between coats? I'm a shellac man so pretty inexperienced with all these "modern" lacquers.
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5th August 2012 05:32 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th August 2012, 11:48 PM #2
Firstly if you like the colour of the floor tom I woud simply rub the finish out to take the gloss off...either wet & dry 600gritt or the right grade of scotchbrite then some wax.......cupla days... beautifull
The snare...well..there isn't much wood on a snare and peopel are used to seeing them look different to the rest of the kit.
The snare alone is more viable to do with spray cans.
remember you can do your prepartion with shelac (not rubbed, but painted) then do a couple of top coats with spray tin nitro or acrillic.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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6th August 2012, 12:39 AM #3Member
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Ok, interesting. You can't rub shellac into a drum? I would've thought the round shell would've been ideal (except it's kind of endless). I suspect the messy brushwork on the snare is probably shellac - haven't had a go at it yet as I contemplate my options.
In any case, how many coats of can nitro would make sense? Do you actually sand back with wet and dry or steel wool between nitro coats or do you just wait till the end?
Yeah, I'll probably just mistreat the floor tom a bit and all will be fine.
What's a good maple-y looking filler for the holes in the snare. Wood putty usually looks dreadful, the holes are too big for furniture restorers wax (at least I think they are). What else are people using?
The kit in question below....
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6th August 2012, 09:58 AM #4
Ya don't have to rub shelac and if its thinned enough ya wont get brush marks.
If someone is ham fisted enough to leave brush marks they are probaly using polly or some other hardware shop varnish.
no need for wet & dry or steel wool on nitro, plain snad paper ans not too fine 400G tops will be fine.
Nitro is self lebeling to a point and redisolves the previos coat to a boint which flows out scratches.
Y sanding nitro only to remove dust and nibs remaining.
there is no need to sand or rub out nitro after the last coat...that is the point.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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6th August 2012, 11:19 AM #5Member
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All good stuff. Thanks. Mirotone seem to do a gloss nitro. Will try a can or two of that and see how I go.
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