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Thread: Benchtop Flattening
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18th March 2005, 08:27 PM #1
Benchtop Flattening
I have a benchtop which is 750x1800 long and made of solid tas-oak. To save money i used 19mm thick pieces and laminated them (was cheaper than using less thicker pieces). The final bench after glueup was about 2mm lower in the center than at the edges.
I spent some time with my belt sander but the going is very slow. I have three basic options.
1. Rip the table top in half and run through my soon-to-be brother in law's joinery shop wide belt sander (its capacity is 610mm). Glue it together
2. Rip the table down to 610mm and deal with it being a bit thinner.
3. Create a router thickness planing jig on two sawhorses and a sheet of particle board, spend a few hours with a 3/4in straight cutter and flatten it.
Which method would you pick?
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18th March 2005, 08:54 PM #2
I'd go the router method, it wouldnt take that long to cut... it'll take twice as long to set it up tho!
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18th March 2005, 09:00 PM #3
I think its a case of whatever turns you on. Id be more inclined to go for the easy option and use your bother in law's sander. A few passes through that should do the trick. Hand planing and routing a bench top would not appeal to me at all I'm afraid.
beejay1
http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9
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18th March 2005, 09:28 PM #4
Gidday Noodle_Snacks
Theres a great Jig for a Router Thicknesser in Shopnotes Vol4 Issue 21.........You can pick up a copy at:
http://www.backissuestore.com/snindividual.html
Although it would take a bit a work to knock it up sounds like it'd be a real handy Jig to have. I don't think theres any real easy way outta your problem so perhaps a few runs through the belt sander then finish off with the Router may be the go????
Keep us posted on how you get on!!!!!
Regards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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18th March 2005, 09:54 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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For 2mm I'd go with option 4,
Option 4
and it'll be faster if you start out with a blade like this,
Blade setupDan
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18th March 2005, 10:35 PM #6
I have a Stanley No 4 smoothing plane only, would this be suitable? I don't particulary want to spend money on hand planes at this stage.
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18th March 2005, 10:57 PM #7
Hand planning is probably not a good consideration (yes, that is right, coming from me). That is, unless the boards have been grain-orientated, which I'm sure they have not. If they have not been grain-orientated you will end up planing into the grain on some boards and with it on others. So tear out is on the cards (or should I say bench ). If you were in a position to hand plane, on the other hand, you cannot use a #4 - it is too short to flatten the top. All it can do is follow the undulations and smooth them. So you will end up with a smooth, unlevel bench top The correct plane to use would be a #7 or #8.
My preference would be to go down the router route. It is a fairly easy job to set up a perimeter fence made of MDF. Just make sure that the router sled is substantial and very, very rigid - otherwise the bench top will follow the dips of the sled itself. You should consider reinforcing it with steel angle.
The use of a belt sander seems a bit dodgy to me. I have limited experience with one so what I say is really based on my assumptions. This being that these cut very aggressively and can gouge dips if you use one without a surround.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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19th March 2005, 12:38 AM #8Son Of Odin
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I have a Bosch belt sander, it has a set of "ski's" that project from the sides - you can adjust for height to stop the digging in. Either one can be used as a fence too. Dunno if any other units come with this setup.
Im probably the least qualified to suggest anything here, but wouldnt it depend on the finish you want for the bench?
J!J!
My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked, and its price is competitive. If you like, I'll trade for one of yours.
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19th March 2005, 03:31 AM #9
I'd rip it to 610mm and sand both pieces then glue back together. You should have no problem lining up the pieces so only a light scrape will have them flush. The top will come out of the Wide belt sander with a nice finish if you use a high grit belt for the final pass. If you route it you will still need a fair bit of scraping sanding to remove the router bit ridges and marks.
Rip, sand and glue up will take less than half a day (for me). Building, routing, scraping and sanding well over a day and a lot more effort.
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19th March 2005, 11:33 AM #10
My makita belt sander is probably about 15 years old and if it did come with skis i don't know where to find them. I am still tossing up both methods. If i used the belt sander would you rip it in half or rip a bit off one side?
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19th March 2005, 06:44 PM #11If i used the belt sander would you rip it in half or rip a bit off one side?
Do you want/need a flat bench? Or do you just want a place to store your equipment?
If you use your belt sander without skiis (as you decribed), you will not be doing any fine woodworking on that bench.
Either set up a router as a planer, or rip it down the centre and have it thicknessed and planed professionally.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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19th March 2005, 07:47 PM #12
I think worrying about 2 mm over 1200mm is a bit over the top. I used to build patterns down to a 1/64" without any problems and my bench had more holes, chisel cuts, saw cuts and drill holes in it than you could poke a stick at.
The only one that will know is you but I guarantee it will not make one bit of difference to any furniture etc. that you build on it.
Give it a coat of finish and be proud that you got it within 2mm.
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19th March 2005, 07:50 PM #13
It's not often that I tend to disagree with the wisdom shown here......But I have with due care and diligence sucessfully flattened off one of my prize slabs of Brush Box (after carefully seasoning it for over 10 yrs) with nothing more than an 1800mm straight edge, large makita belt sander, sanding blocks, homemade hand sanding pads and a h3ll of a lot of afternoons and weekends.
Finishing grade was hand blocked 1800 wet'n dry, obviously dry, mirror finish before laquer, it's now our main coffee table.
The only caveat I will add, is that I have (mis?)spent many hours prepping custom car & motorcycles bodywork for the gun and the fine work between coats and clear over top in the old dayze and believe this does give you somewhat of an edge when dealing with timber.Bruce C.
catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .
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19th March 2005, 08:03 PM #14
Just as an added point if you have a look at the beautiful work that Bob Smalser produces on his rough sawn timber bench with the timbers running across the bench 2mm becomes a mute point.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ght=hand+tools
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19th March 2005, 08:04 PM #15
Bazza
I agree "2 mm over 1200mm is a bit over the top". What was I thinking? I forgot the low point was in the centre of the bench. On the other hand, if it were on the outside, then I would expect boards to rock (as I have experienced). But, unless you are using the bench to thickness by hand plane, anyway, I agree, it will not make much difference. My concern was just that belt sanding without a sanding frame, unless you are very experienced, is likely to lead to disaster. If you are intent on achieving a truly flat surface, then go the router route.
Regards from Perth
Derek