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  1. #1
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    Jan 2010
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    Default shed building advice

    Hi there!

    I'm planning a new shed in my backyard in the inner west of Sydney. About 3mx4.5m. I'm going to make it from timber. Just an aesthetic thing. I'm also going to have a floor of pavers laid on sand- a concrete slab doesn't appeal.

    I'm considering 2 options for the footings. 1 option is to dig holes and bury posts made of ironbark painted with preservative directly in the holes. The second option is to fill the holes with concrete and stick in steel stirrups and fit the uprights (any hardwood) into those.

    I'd be grateful for advice about the advantages/disadvantages of the 2 methods.

    Thanks

    Stewart

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  3. #2
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    A 3rd option is Otter helical screw piers. The big green shed and Mitre 10 carry them.

    There are 2 lengths 600mm & 900mm. They are galvanized with a U stirrup at the top.

    Excellent product, I have done several balconies & decks with them. There is a hard way and easy way to install them. If you do decide to use them PM me.

    A few points to consider first.
    1 Do you need council approval? If the highest point of the roof is less than 2.0m, you dont, if it is then council approval
    2 Any drainage/sewer/services/easements that will be affected?
    3 Is there any rock in the ground and how much slope in ground level?
    3 Will it impact on the neighbors amenity?

    Of the 2 methods you proposed, concrete piers with stirrups is the preferred option.

    You will need a plastic membrane under the bedding for the pavers to eliminate moister and rising damp.

    Hope this helps
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  4. #3
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    I know what you mean about a concrete floor, but for me pavers are worse
    It's the gap between them that traps muck and unless done really really well, differential settlement leads to an uneven floor
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #4
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    Ian
    I was thinking of rolls of anti fatigue matting over the pavers. However, maybe rw's idea of the helical screws would allow a simple wooden floor as an alternative.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I know what you mean about a concrete floor, but for me pavers are worse
    It's the gap between them that traps muck and unless done really really well, differential settlement leads to an uneven floor
    I agree, I spent 30 years trying to use machines on pavers. Never again. The other thing about pavers where I lives is they allow too much moisture into a shed and this plays havoc with machinery.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewart59 View Post
    Ian
    I was thinking of rolls of anti fatigue matting over the pavers.
    if you're going that route, just use a concrete slab
    However, maybe rw's idea of the helical screws would allow a simple wooden floor as an alternative.
    a wooden floor will put you some consideravble distance off the ground with a corresponding increase in how high above the fence the top of the shed is
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    if you're going that route, just use a concrete slab
    a wooden floor will put you some consideravble distance off the ground with a corresponding increase in how high above the fence the top of the shed is
    H3 sleepers on their flat 400 BETWEEN them, 16mm compressed sheet over the top, gal screws into sleepers, makes a solid floor, put forticon plastic sheet (doubled) over sleepers first then no rising damp or sweating. Did shallow trench for sleeper, 20mm sand under sleeper to bed them in and helps align top of sleepers for straight & level floor. Have done this for garden sheds, works well.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    H3 sleepers on their flat 400 BETWEEN them, 16mm compressed sheet over the top, gal screws into sleepers, makes a solid floor, put forticon plastic sheet (doubled) over sleepers first then no rising damp or sweating. Did shallow trench for sleeper, 20mm sand under sleeper to bed them in and helps align top of sleepers for straight & level floor. Have done this for garden sheds, works well.
    but does this comply with the BCA thus [possibly] exempting the OP from seeking Council approval?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    but does this comply with the BCA thus [possibly] exempting the OP from seeking Council approval?
    His PM to me said no problem with council.

    Purely an alternative
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  11. #10
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    For my Council, which is also within 10km of the city centre, "no problem" means no DA required if the structure complies with the requirements of the BCA
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    sydney
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    108

    Default Council approval

    My council, Canada Bay, referred me to:
    housingcode.planning.nsw.gov.au/Developemntwithoutapproval/Cabanascubbyhousesferneriesgardenshedsga

    The shed I am planning is within the criteria specified.
    Thanks all for your suggestions

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Adelaide
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    i came across this [ame="http://www.amazon.com/The-Versatile-Shed-Renovate-Customize/dp/1440319235"] book , The Versatile Shed: How To Build, Renovate and Customize Your Bonus Space[/ame], take a look inside (click the pic top left to open the book) for some inspiration perhaps, some interesting little sheds


    cheers
    chippy

  14. #13
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    Thanks very much, Chippy. I'll have a look for it.

  15. #14
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    post or pier with joists and wooden floorbourds would be good but raise the height if thats a problem, nice for a woodwork shed, cheap if you can source the materials well...has some advantages and some not...hard to know which way you are leaning


    but remember if you do use a concrete slab, your not stuck with the (boring) finish and hard on tools or feet, or the unattractive rubber matting, you can place (glue) timber flooring directly onto the slab, can be thinner than normal floorbourds too, to save on costs, 12mm or so will do...places sell this stuff in all sort of exotics nowadays for people that want timber floors but not those drummy boards (made of laminates or veneers) you get at carpet places or bunnings...for a shed you just want cheap no doubt, pine floorboards wouldnt cost much for that space and look and wear good (thats to say rustic) with all your spilt beer, red wine and oil footprints in it

    you can buy patterns to imprint the concrete to look like pavers too, but that would still be hard on your feet perhaps and maybe cost prohibitive for a small project, you could make you own pattern though, not great for sliding things about your shed though.

    if the shed is for woodworking then a wooden floor is nice imo, on you and your tools should they happen to succumb to gravity


    cheers
    chippy

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