Insulating the shed using the Sturdee method.

[Groggy]

A while back Sturdee built the 'Doormitory' for his daughter Michelle. His ideas inspired me to do something similar.

Recycled parts:

Leftover paint from a recent renovation,
Battens removed from the closets during the reno,
Doors replaced during the same renovation, and
Insulation offcuts from a mate who has just built the Shed Mahal.

The roof area is 36sqm, the first section I am tackling is 6000x1890mm; it covers the tablesaw and most of the workbench.

First up the doors had to be cut so they had about 5mm space. For this a circular saw was used. The doors were cut down from 2040 to about 1890mm.
Next, the bottom of the door needed an insert put in to provide stiffening.
Holes were then plugged and fixed with whatever came to hand.
Undercoat and two coats of ceiling white were then applied to one side.
Finally, the unpainted side had insulation stapled to it.

Since the shed has electrical conduit everywhere I could not lift the doors straight into place. Instead, they had to be lifted at the far end where there is a gap in conduit on one side, then they were slid across to the far side and battens nailed underneath for support. This meant clambering over just about everything in the shed a dozen times (note to self - tidy up!).

Still have some way to go then I can paint the trim and be finished. Already it is noticeably cooler under the insulated area and as an added bonus the white roof is reflecting a lot more light.

Thanks for the idea Peter!

Pic 1, the bare roof.
2012-10-03 17.37.57.jpg

Pic 2, insulation stapled to the door
2012-10-03 17.38.24.jpg

Pic 3, partially done.
2012-10-03 17.39.05.jpg

[DJ’s Timber]

Looks good Greg

Suppose you'll wanna buy the others doors back then

[Groggy]

Looks good Greg

Suppose you'll wanna buy the others doors back then

No, I'll be scrounging from council and roadside disposals. It should take a fair while as I think I will need about another 20 doors, depending on their size.

[Sturdee]

Looks great, a marked improvement.

Shouldn't take you long to get the doors needed as the are usually thrown out when people change carpets, rather then adjust the doors to fit the new floor levels. When I was looking for them I'd get 20 doors in an afternoon of kerbside shopping.


Peter.

[ozhunter]

It should take a fair while as I think

That's a bit of a worying statement, look what happened last time you said that...................

[artme]

Just had a look through Sturdee's job and can see where your inspiration came from.

Top jobs both!!

The bit that grabs my attention is the recycling.

[ozhunter]

I like the whole idea. Very good use of what may otherwise end up in the tip. We don't have hard rubbish pick up here, mores the pity.

I had a look at Sturdee's thread, very nice.

Looks good Groggy.

[Jim Carroll]

Greg I thought that style of insulation was supposed to have an air gap to work effieciently.

Or is it just reflective?

[Groggy]

Jim, it has about 1cm above it to the roof. As for how it is supposed to work, I have no idea. It was offcuts from a mate's shed build and it was flush on his roof so... ....anyone?

[DJ’s Timber]

Greg I thought that style of insulation was supposed to have an air gap to work effieciently.

Or is it just reflective?

Depends on the type used Jim, my shed has Anticon Blankets and it works best when it's hard up against the tin as that is what is designed for, my shed is quieter than my house when it rains heavily. One of these days I'm going to replace the tin on my house and when I do, Anticon Insulation is definitely going in, even with the insulation I've got in the roof already.

[Jim Carroll]

No worries

[Groggy]

I found a site with some info. It is known as AIR-CELL Insulshed® 50 and should have a 40mm gap. I have a 10mm gap and will increase that now that I know. The roof has 40mm slots in it so they will help to evacuate heat a little. The doors also have a 28mm void that will act as a dead air gap, a bit like double glazing (I hope) and stop all the radiated heat which is what really bothers me in summer.

[Kiwibrucee]

Greg I thought that style of insulation was supposed to have an air gap to work effieciently.

Or is it just reflective?

And I just thought that my shed builders couldn't be bothered getting it tight and neat!

[Groggy]

Stage 1 is now complete. There is a lot more light in the centre section now thanks to the extra reflection. The first pic shows a bit of plain roof and the centre bit, lots brighter!

2012-10-14 18.37.41.jpg


The next two are from either end of the shed. When I was painting the battens I could feel quite a difference of temperature from either side of the beams so I am hopeful that summer will see the shed a bit more comfy . No more will be done for a while now as I need to acquire 20 or so doors to complete stages two and three. Its a great way to recycle old doors, onya Sturdee

2012-10-14 18.37.56.jpg2012-10-14 18.39.06.jpg

[SAISAY]

I found a site with some info. It is known as AIR-CELL Insulshed® 50 and should have a 40mm gap. I have a 10mm gap and will increase that now that I know. The roof has 40mm slots in it so they will help to evacuate heat a little. The doors also have a 28mm void that will act as a dead air gap, a bit like double glazing (I hope) and stop all the radiated heat which is what really bothers me in summer.

When they built my shed they put the aircell close up against the tin (roof and walls) and held it tight with cross straps, they did the same with the roof when they built the house.
There is usually about 10 degrees difference inside and outside and the noise level outside dropped significantly.

They forgot we wanted insulation in the walls of the house as well, so instead they used batts. We had enough left over for the inside walls as well. Great noise insulation, we can hardly hear someone talking in another room and the sound of the telly doesn't penetrate into the bedroom. Great when someone sits up to late watching 100 year old moveis