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Thread: Deck protection

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
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    8

    Default Deck protection

    Hi,

    I am building a deck on the side of my house and have a number of questions that still remain unresolved for me:

    1. Deck paint, I have seen recommendations for Sikkens Cetol HLS, Intergrain Dimension 4 and DWD and decking oil. What are the pro's and con's of these three options?

    2. I am looking at using Yellow Balau decking planks, are there any disadvantages of this material?

    3. Is it recommended to sand the deck after laying the decking planks, before sealing?

    4. What is the best method or attaching the decking planks to the joists? I ws thinking of 55mm cup head twist galv. Nails but was wondering if I shoud be using screws and if so what screws?

    5. I have had a recommendation to place a strip if flash tack on top of the joists before nailing the decking planks on. This is an bitumencoated aluminium foil (I think) The idea being that this prevents water getting into the joists. My concern is that if water gets in how will it get out? Is this a good idea?

    6. I have had a recommendation to coat the top of the joists and cut ends with a sealant. Has anyone got any products to recommend?

    7. Should I be paintng the bearers, posts and joists? If so I guess that my options are to use the same stuff as the deck or a acrylic paint. Any recommendations as to if this is a good idea?

    8. Is there a way to stop the F14 unseasoned hardwood from twisting and bowing during the time it will take me to build the deck (weekends only)?

    Any comments will be appreciated.

    Regards.

    Sean


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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    1. The most durable finish I have ever encountered on a deck is Wattyl Solaguard Acrylic in a timber color.

    2. Balau is ok.

    3. Dont sand the decking

    4 . Timberlok nails are good not familiar with the cup head unless you mean roofing nails.

    5. Some chippies use it but I prefer to paint the joists. If your decking has a ribbed face place it down on the joists which lets water get away.

    6 & 7. Painting the joists and bearers with acrylic is good practice

    8. Virtually all unseasoned joists will have bows in them. Place all the bows up so they tend to straighten under use. Try and grade your joists so all the ones with noticable bows are in the same general location and you wont notice the deck going up and down.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    Thanks Bob,

    I appreciate the advise.

    Sean

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
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    99

    Default

    1. You're on the right track, I've used Sikkens for 20 years with excellent results. I like it because it's oil based whereas Intergrain is acrylic and looks "plasticy" when down. The Sikkens looks fantastic and is also very good from a maintenance point of view, ie it lasts a long time before requiring a recoat and doesn't need much prep work prior to coating.
    2.Yellow Belau is durablity Class 4, I prefer to use the Class 1's ie Ironbark, Turpentine etc. if you can get it.
    3.No need to sand the boards if you look after and keep nice and clean during construction. If utilising underneath deck then you should preprime at least 1st coat with Sikkens prior to install, see 6. & 7.
    4.Use 2" galvanised bullet head nails, and predrill and punch them.
    5.I have always cut a roll of Malthoid (sounds similar to Flashtak) into 2" strips then roll out strips onto top of joists & attach with flexsheet nails every now and then to keep in place. It works a treat for joist protection where nails will split top of joists. I was quite convinced by this method when I built an extension about 15 y ago, had to demolish part of a verandah which had been exposed to weather and down for 50+y, joists were as good as the day they were bought.
    6. & 7. Is your subfloor framing exposed visibly, and do you intend to utilise the area underneath it, if so I would recommend double priming joist tops to prevent bleeding onto your tiles or pavers. If not seen no need to worry at all. Always prime joints and exposed hardwood with an oil based primer, any clear finish outside like your deck creates a maintenance problem down the track ie paint lasts alot longer outside in the weather than any clear finish. I like to use 50% oil based primer mixed with 50% of silverfrost (helps stop the bleeding) as a primer.
    8.Keep the timber out of the weather and keep strapped until you need to use it. Throw a tarp over it. Get it in as quick as you can!!!

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