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Thread: Adjustable sticking board
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5th March 2013, 02:19 AM #1
Adjustable sticking board
A little more time with the lapdesk. It is a while since I have made really small drawers, and I forgot to add the grooves beforehand. This left me with a few dinky pieces (each is only 1 1/2" wide). How do you plane a groove on work this small?
The base of the drawer requires a groove that is 1/8" wide ...
I realised that I could not put it off any longer - a sticking board was needed. However I chose to build one that has an adjustable fence. This would enable all boards to be placed against the side of the bench to use the fence on ploughs, rebate planes, etc.
The fence is also reversible, with low- and high sides. The low side is needed to avoid the arms of the LV Small Plow plane.
There are several stops. These need to be aligned and the screw tops ground to sharpen the edges.
Underside ...
Using it is a simple matter ..
Work in progress ...
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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5th March 2013, 09:11 AM #2
Well, Derek, that's what you might call a grande solution for a petit problem. For just a couple of small drawer sides, I would have simply clamped them between dogs balancing on an off-cut deep enough to let the fence clear the bench top (and probably had at least one slip out & damage the groove in the process!). Or even more likely, if I was in a hurry, as I too-often am, cut the grooves with the tablesaw. But I take it from the number of stop screws you've added, that your sticking-board is ear-marked for much future use.
Seeing your lap desk taking shape reminds me that the desk I made several years ago (& use daily) is still waiting for its gallery. I've redesigned it in my head several times as my computer situation changed. The wait was worthwhile because computers & their associaated junk have shrunk to the point where I can go back to my original plan of a full gallery, with lots of drawers & hiding places....
Cheers,IW
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5th March 2013, 10:57 AM #3
How about a review of the Tightbond Liquid Hide glue as opposed to ordinary HHG.
Cheers, Bill
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5th March 2013, 11:45 PM #4Well, Derek, that's what you might call a grande solution for a petit problem. For just a couple of small drawer sides, I would have simply clamped them between dogs balancing on an off-cut deep enough to let the fence clear the bench top (and probably had at least one slip out & damage the groove in the process!). Or even more likely, if I was in a hurry, as I too-often am, cut the grooves with the tablesaw. But I take it from the number of stop screws you've added, that your sticking-board is ear-marked for much future use.
One of the advantages of a bench that is (1) flat, and (2) has square sides, is that you can use a fenced plane on it - such as a moving fillister, or a plough ...
Lifting a board off the surface and running the fence against a 1/2" high side is tricky, to say the least.
Trying to clamp narrow boards on dogs 3" or 4" in from the edge means you cannot reach the edge of the bench.
One could score the lines with either a knife or a gauge and then chisel/router plane them out (I have done stopped grooves this way). A plough is quicker and tidier ... if you can use one.
This adjustable sticking board is going to be used for many other applications. The one thing I will change is to replace the routed groove with a T-Track. The groove will eventually dent and develop memory.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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16th March 2013, 04:57 AM #5Novice
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Moxon and sticking board
Derek, your post came at a most fortuitous time. I have been wrestling with the problem of securing small pieces while planing them. After looking at your sticking board and reading the post I came up with this P3130302.jpgP3130301.jpg. It mounts in my version of the Moxon vise popularised by Chris Schwarz, thereby raising it up about 6 in. above my bench level. Holes for bench pups and a few brass screws hold the end of the board and the sliding section keeps it from moving sideways. Seems to work quite well and I'm sure I will find other uses for it as well.
Cheers from Ottawa
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16th March 2013, 12:21 PM #6
Hi Jack
You know, I was thinking of you as we drove past the sign to Nepean outside Ottawa, on our visit to the museum in Quebec. Of course, I had no idea where Nepean was before that moment!
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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18th March 2013, 03:43 AM #7Novice
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- Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Moxon and sticking board
Too bad we were unable to meet up while you were here (I live less than 10 minutes from LV - waaay too close) - I would have enjoyed meeting you and swapping lies. I have used several of your ideas, although not always in the way originally intended. Keep up the good works.
Cheers
Jack
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28th April 2013, 01:21 PM #8Novice
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- Jun 2008
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- Too far from the shed, WA
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Hi Derek
I am wondering what the advantage is to having the fence extend past the line of the stops?
As I see it this then requires all the stops narrower than the board to be screwed all the way down to move the fence in. Is the work holding much better by having the fence extend this far?
Thanks
Matt
Bunbury WA
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28th April 2013, 10:53 PM #9
Hi Matt
No advantage. I realised that once it started to get some use, and cut it off.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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29th April 2013, 11:26 AM #10Novice
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- Jun 2008
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- Too far from the shed, WA
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Thanks Derek
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