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Thread: Jack Brabham's Formula 1, BT19.
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25th March 2013, 07:55 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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25th March 2013, 09:04 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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I am back in Brisbane at work, and now on call till after easter ...... sigh .... bring on retirement.
Even tho I am working on the V8 engine and determined to finish it before starting any other part of the project, I have been giving a lot of thought to carving out the body shell. The way I see it this is going to be the hardest part, because it has numerous compound curves ... and each curve has to be mirror-imaged .. in exactly the equal and opposite plane.
This is my solution.
I have built (building ?) a hand operated CNC Milling machine ... HaaHaa
I have built it out of
.. old magnetic door locks (4 each one can hold 450kg)
.. a parrot vise from Carbatec (100 bucks ?)
.. a cross traverse vise from Carbatec (80 bucks) .. needed to disassemble and reassemble this chinese model)
.. A 12v Power supply
.. A garage door remote tranceiver and receiver
.. and a stop button
I have yet to build the rotating work frame which will sit in the traverse vise.
Now .... all this crap is Ok ... but how to get an exact measurement ?
If you already know how a Clinometer works then you can skip this post.
The BT19 Vehicle overall, I am hoping to keep within 0.5mm of true. No greater error than that. This means that assembled parts can not have a cumulative error greater than 0.5mm. So each individual part must have an error much much less.
I am hoping to be able to locate the 'work frame' in relation to the 'Mill head' (either the Dremel or the Pistol drill) within 0.01mm ... and further to be able to rotate the work frame 180deg (or at least the 'job' itself within the frame)
This will allow me to mill two exactly equal and opposite planes (mirror imaged)
The body shell of the vehicle is full of compound curves and in order to shape it I am hoping to mill it 'faceted' like a diamond and then hand sand the 'facets' into the flowing curves. But each 'facet' must have an exact mirror image on the opposite side of the vehicle.
This is where the Clinometer comes in .... HaaHaa (we hope !!)
I carried out the following trial ... I placed the Clinometer on the Granite stone (accurate level to 1/1000 of an inch from Carbatec 100 bucks ?). But first I cleaned the granite top and the bottom of the Clinometer.
I set the Clinometer to zero degrees .... the bubble travelled fully to the left.
I set it to 1 deg, the bubble travelled fully to the right.
This told me that my bench was not level, but that the error was somewhere between zero degs and one deg.
As you can see in the first photo .... I then levelled the Clinometer. (moved the slide)
This told me that my bench was out by 19 minutes of arc. (Zero + 19 minutes of 1 degree)
You can read this on the sliding dial. There are 60 minutes of arc in one degree. (bloody imperial measurements !!)
Right click for larger view, select 'view image'
.
So now I then moved the slide to read 20 minutes of arc (I increased the slide by one minute) And the Sardine Fart slipped off to the right by one minute of Arc !
.
Now I very gently slipped a cigarette paper beneath the target end of the Clinometer .... and .... the Sardine fart moved back to center !!
This device is registering the thickness of a cigarette paper at 100 mm from the fulcrum angle. As the 60 minutes curve of Arc (on the device) is 50mm long then 360 0f these arcs give me a circle 18 metres in circumference ... or alternatively 2.9 metres radius.
To put this in context ... If I drew two lines forming an angle ... then at a distance of 2.9 metres they would have diverged only 0.83mm apart. (If you are measuring one minute of arc)
The reason this thing is so bloody accurate is because it was once strapped to an 18 pounder barrel that could launch an 18 pound shell 18 klms (almost poetry there haahaa). It is in fact a gun-sight and you can get them cheap if you look in old op-shops or disposal stores or gun shows.
It is stamped 1918, and doesn't need batteries or a software program ... But wait .. there's more .. it is also a right angle square and a 45 deg triangle as well.
So ... all in all I think this thing will be capable of setting the work table in relation to the mill head with enough accuracy so that any error cannot be detected by the human eye.
Do you like ?? (perhaps I should post this in the metalwork forum, just to show that woodworkers can measure fine tolerances as well .... so funny)
cool bananas ... greg
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25th March 2013, 12:50 PM #18
Great tutorial. I'll be keeping an eye out for one of those. Could come in very handy.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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25th March 2013, 12:57 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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25th March 2013, 04:53 PM #20
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25th March 2013, 04:58 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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25th March 2013, 09:11 PM #22
Wow, you're not wasting any time, Greg. Flying along. Coming up great so far, too, I must say. I'm looking forward to following this one.
Keep up the good work.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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26th March 2013, 07:11 AM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanx Hermit ....
But its gunna be a slow WIP
Greg
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27th March 2013, 03:04 AM #24
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28th March 2013, 09:45 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Anyone who acquires a piece of ex WWI artillery equipment with a sardine fart embedded in it to use as a wood working tool, is certainly worth watching.
I'll take a grand stand seat, right up the rear, that way I can get an over view!
I'll bring along a packet of ciggie papers to stick under my derriere, to ensure I have the correct viewing inclination
Mick.
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8th April 2013, 08:46 AM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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UPDATE:
Progress iz slow !!
I spent fri-sat-sun in the shed (32hrs) and have very little to show for it.
The fuel injector bodies were worrying me. In the real vehicle their angle of incline is not 'exactly' aligned with the incline of the roll bar. But because this is a scale and the observer will be viewing the entire vehicle at once its important (to me) that both angles (fuel ports and roll bar) are exactly in alignment.
Look ... this probably sounds a bit crazy. But the vehicle HAS to look FAST, and so the form has to flow, so that the observer's eye does not get 'hooked up' on objects that are not in alignment.
I took Pogo's advice. I scrapped all the injectors I had made and started again.
Anyway, I eventually calculated that the angle I wanted was 42deg above horizontal.
I didn't own a saw, but last week I bought these two niffy liddle japanese saws from Carba-tec ... And I am well pleased with them. The littlest one has 44 TPI .. and both of them are pure pleasure to cut with.
I cut two sheets off the block.
Then I cut the sheets into 'Pen blanks'
The 'Pen Blanks' I turned into dowels 8mm.
As you can see .... I just put the put the 4-sided block in the 3-jaw chuck and cable tied the other end to prevent it splitting on the dead centre pin. I know its probably wrong .. but it worked and I don't know any better ....
The finished Dowels. (spot the mistake ... HaaHaa)
more .................
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8th April 2013, 08:47 AM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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.
Now I had a problem. How to make the 'elbows' for the injector ports. I scratched my head and mentally designed various jigs. But the parts are so small and difficult to line up. So in the end I decided to join them all by hand.
I cut and gently sanded each face to 21 deg ... (o-so-gently) .. and then epoxied them.
I have a love-hate relationship with epoxy. On the one hand it is messy, sticky, covers everything, difficult to clean up, to clean off. It has to be mixed, it can cure in 20 mins or 6 hours .. depending on a variety of conditions. It takes 24hrs to cure enough to work with. It takes 72 hours to total cure. Itz a pain in the a****.
But ... It loves sloppy joins and it is STRONGER than the surrounding timber it joins.
I usually mix it up in a wine-bottle top. And because I (for once) had made my joins so neat, I had to butcher the face of each one a liddle bit to give the epoxy some elbow room.
It was cold up the mountain this weekend ... and the bloody epoxy wouldn't cure ... So I spent 4 hours baby sit it, moving it round every 20mins so that it wouldn't stick to the block. It didn't start to set until after midnite ...
Then I had to make the injector throats.
So the whole weekend and all I have to show is a small handful of parts.
But ... they are all exactly 20mm long, exactly 42deg, and the 'planes are in alignment (+/- 0.1mm) ... But in any case, once they are fixed to the inlet manifold I can 'long-board them into alignment. So there is some room for small error.
Hope you like ..... Greg
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8th April 2013, 10:12 AM #28
Have you got Jack's car in the back yard or what nice going off to grab a coffee and be right back for next install.
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8th April 2013, 10:40 AM #29
G'Day Greg,
Are you sure you're a sparkie and not a "ToolMaker"....
The precision and attention to deal is beautiful, VERY well done..
Cheers, crowie
PS - get yourself a old "potbelly" stove for the shed, there should be enough old timber in the surrounding bush to keep you & the woodwork warm.....BUT don't burn the good stuff...
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8th April 2013, 01:29 PM #30SENIOR MEMBER
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Y'know ... thats not too bad of an idea .... really .... I could just make one up an fit it into the container. I lived in the container for 18mths and in winter, zero at times, I used to have the liddle gas-cooker-LPG goin just as a heater.
I have a million miles of firewood, and all ironbark as well ... I am gunna look around for an old gas bottle or something for the pot belly and I already have spare chimney pipe. I am as thick as a brick ... shoulda thought earlier.
And something else .. the iron bark ... I take the liddle bush pig up into the mountain and fell an old dead ironbark. cut it into billets in situ and bring it back in loads with the pig. But actually, when the iron bark is cut it is a beautiful red inside. I am sure it is excellent timber.
If you make pens ?? I will cut and send you some blanks ... I just want to see what it looks like.
cool bananas ... Greg
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