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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    65
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    3,003

    Default Inlay Finished

    The inlay is finished. It went in well, but it's a bit crappy, with lots of gaps between the actual inlay pieces. Nothing I can do now, just have to live with it. Looks OK from a distance. Lucky it's not a stand-alone piece.
    Surprisingly, the hardest bit, the 'S', came out best.
    Gave it a quick wipe with white spirits, to bring out the colour:

    k. Inlay Finished.JPG
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Range View, Australia
    Posts
    656

    Default

    We all have to live with that sort of stuff Hermit. The darker bits are just a bit of shading to give it some depth. Good effort for a first time.
    Cheers, Bill

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Jimboomba. Qld
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    437

    Default

    Darn good effort.

    The are ways to fix the gap issue but that's for another time.

    Cheers

    Steve

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ball Peen View Post
    We all have to live with that sort of stuff Hermit. The darker bits are just a bit of shading to give it some depth. Good effort for a first time.
    Thanks, Bill and Steve. Today it doesn't look so bad to me. Just while I was doing it and looking closely. I don't think I'll throw it in the rubbish just yet.


    Quote Originally Posted by fineboxes View Post
    Darn good effort.
    The are ways to fix the gap issue but that's for another time.
    Cheers
    Steve
    Steve, problem with the gaps is that they're full of glue. I mixed fine CL dust with the PVA when putting it in, so there's no visible gaps around the periphery, but some squeezed up into the thin remaining gaps between pieces and was sort of filtered so that only glue without sawdust filled them. I didn't notice until it was too late, or I would have rubbed some more sawdust into them. I'm not too worried about it. Another time, as you say. I'm learning a lot ready for my second build.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Burleigh, Gold Coast
    Age
    33
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Such beautiful work, I love it. Inspiring me to build a CBG, thank you for the existence of this thread!
    Jack

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Hello Jack. Thank you for such kind words.
    You should give one a go. Great fun and a good learning experience. It'll have you pulling your hair out at times though.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Nowra, NSW, Australia
    Age
    65
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    Default Fret Marker Dots Fitted

    I got the MOP fret marker dots done today.

    az. Fret Marker Dots Fitted.jpg

    I watched a YouTube vid last night that said never use anything else except a Forstner bit for this, but my dots are 5mm. No such thing as a 5mm Forstner bit, so I used a brad-point. No tear-out at all. I put masking tape on each spot before drilling, which helped - worked out well.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    I've been pretty busy doing other things, but have the basic box assembled, minus the soundboard. The joints are just simple single rabbets. Still needs a quick cleanup.

    The side that's at the top will be the lid. I have to separate it yet, after the glue's had a little more drying time. I might add decorative dowels at the corners as well, or splines. Still debating that one.
    Next it's the soundboard, I've been looking forward to that bit.

    ba. CBG Box minus Soundboard.jpg
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    65
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    Default Joint Dowels

    I went with 14mm deep dowels to strengthen and decorate the joints, I don't think splines would have suited the rabbets. The gap between the top pairs is where I'll separate the lid:

    bb. Joint Dowels.jpg
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    Default Soundboard Blank Sized

    I just got the Camphor Laurel soundboard edges planed to size.
    I've left it a bit thick for now at 6.5mm so I can put a few mm of arch in it for strength later:

    bc. Soundboard Blank.jpg

    Next are the 'f' holes, before I start shaping.

    This is roughly what I'm aiming for:

    Paper Body Mockup.jpg
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    Default 'f' Holes Cut Out

    I got the 'f' holes cut out this morning. They came out OK. It was much easier than I expected.
    For anyone interested, I cut the holes at the ends with 1/2" and 5/8" Forstner bits, then the outline with the scrollsaw.
    I haven't cleaned them up much yet, that'll be easier after I finish thinning/shaping, since there'll be less material to remove: -

    bd. f Holes Cut Out.JPG


    I used a piece of 2mm Basswood ply that was laying around for backing to reduce tearout.
    It's almost a soundboard in it's own right, but a little thin: -

    2mm Basswood Ply Backing.JPG

    Ever had the feeling you're just talking to yourself?
    Not to worry, I'll plod on with the WIP regardless.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    We are watching, well, I am at least.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    We are watching, well, I am at least.
    Thanks, Cliff. I'm not trying to solicit nice comments, I know I'm just an amateur in this section, but wasn't sure if it was worth wasting my time taking all the pics etc.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  15. #29
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    Feb 2012
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    Default Box Lid Separated

    I separated the box lid from the sides this afternoon. Worked out reasonably well. The poor little Dremel has never worked so hard.
    This is the first joined box I've ever made, so I wasn't sure how I'd go. The edges still need a bit more of a cleanup, but I think I'll leave that until shortly before assembly, in case I get any dings in it.

    be. Box Lid Separated.jpg

    Now I can get onto the soundboard shaping. Still not sure just how I'll go about shaping the inside concave side yet, but I'll figure something out. I'd love one of those little convex planes used for shaping archies.

    The pickup will be here early next week, too, so I have to start thinking about a preamp, I guess. I want an onboard type, with volume and tone controls.
    If anyone can point me in the direction of a decent schematic I'd be grateful, to save re-inventing the wheel. Preferably a JFET cct, rather than an op-amp type. I have all the gear to design and etch a PCB then assemble it, so that's not a worry. The pickup is an under-saddle piezo type, this one: PP-607 Acoustic Guitar Piezo Undersaddle Pickup - Acoustic Guitar - Pickups
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  16. #30
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    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hermit View Post
    Thanks, Cliff. I'm not trying to solicit nice comments, I know I'm just an amateur in this section, but wasn't sure if it was worth wasting my time taking all the pics etc.
    Just you wait & see if you post a pic of something you have done wrong.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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