A couple of headstock inlay questions

[Hermit]

Well, the hardest bit is done.

Maybe now I can get a real night's sleep tonight, after two nights running of 3 to 4 hours.

As you can easily see, I still haven't filled the crevasses crevices. I'll do that next, before fitting the inlay. Got some fine, matching NGR and CL dust ready to go.
Pretty messy, and I'm not 100% happy with my work, but at least it's together without breaking any bits.
I'm not so scared of the actual inlaying into the headstock.

Thanks, guys, for the suggestions and help, especially Steve and kiwigeo.

Inlay Assembled.JPG


Still wouldn't mind hearing if MinWax Teak oil is a good idea for the NGR fretboard, if anyone knows. Sure looks and feels good on a matching NGR scrap, and was designed for Teak and Rosewood.

[Crafty Fox]

I know I've come in late here but I thought I might share my inlay technique for future reference:
For wood inlays, I cut out my inlays and lay them onto clear adhesive backed plastic film so I can lay the entire piece onto the headstock (or whatever) and mark out the outline with Xacto or scalpel. I then use a brad-point bit in my drill press to rough out the general area being inlaid then clean up to my Xacto or scapel line with chisels, Xacto, trimmer knife or whatever fits the job.
I did a paua shell inlay on the headstock of my current build at the weekend. Because the shell is more resilient it is easier as I use the actual edge of the cut shell pieces to scribe around and cut out as above. I glue each piece in as I go, with CA. I don't worry too much about variations in thicknesses as it all gets sanded flush when dry.
I hope this helps. We all tend to do things differently and this has worked well for me.

[Hermit]

I know I've come in late here but I thought I might share my inlay technique for future reference:
For wood inlays, I cut out my inlays and lay them onto clear adhesive backed plastic film so I can lay the entire piece onto the headstock (or whatever) and mark out the outline with Xacto or scalpel. I then use a brad-point bit in my drill press to rough out the general area being inlaid then clean up to my Xacto or scapel line with chisels, Xacto, trimmer knife or whatever fits the job.
I did a paua shell inlay on the headstock of my current build at the weekend. Because the shell is more resilient it is easier as I use the actual edge of the cut shell pieces to scribe around and cut out as above. I glue each piece in as I go, with CA. I don't worry too much about variations in thicknesses as it all gets sanded flush when dry.
I hope this helps. We all tend to do things differently and this has worked well for me.

Thanks Steve Ken. I'll add your methods to my book of tricks, for reference. Clear film isn't a bad idea.
For this one, the smaller pieces are tacked in with a few drops of CA each, to hold it all together.

[floody_85]

That looks great mate. Good work

[Hermit]

That looks great mate. Good work

Thanks for that. It does look good from a distance - the greater the distance, the better it looks.

On a serious note, I'm not too disappointed, although I would have been happier if I'd got less gaps. The glue/sawdust combo should sort it out though and after all, it is only a CBG for me and not something for a client/customer or gift for a friend.

A good learning experience, and besides the obvious, I learned 3 things:
1. I need new glasses, (or eyes).
2. If I was starting on another, I'd inlay the NGR pieces into a larger piece of Camphor Laurel, then cut it out to final dimensions.
or
3. I'd possibly utilise all available resources and get Malibu to make it from MOP or similar, then simply inlay the whole thing into my headstock. Love his work. I considered that option, but the budget is a bit tight right now, plus I wanted to have a go myself.

[kiwigeo]

Still wouldn't mind hearing if MinWax Teak oil is a good idea for the NGR fretboard, if anyone knows. Sure looks and feels good on a matching NGR scrap, and was designed for Teak and Rosewood.

No sure how teak oil would go on a fretboard. I generally just rub in a bit of Martin fretboard oil once the guitar is finished.

[Hermit]

No sure how teak oil would go on a fretboard. I generally just rub in a bit of Martin fretboard oil once the guitar is finished.

I've since read of a couple of others using it, but haven't heard how it goes in the long term. It ends up silky smooth and isn't at all tacky. Doesn't darken the timber too much, either. I'll snap a quick pic.

[Hermit]

One showing gloss, one avoiding the light, (not quite as dark as it looks, but had to turn the flash off), both next to the un-oiled fretboard:

100_3973.jpg100_3972.jpg

I was originally going to use lemon oil, then saw this sitting unused on my shelf.....
(Was a bonus tin from Globak a while ago, accompanying one of my regular WOP orders.)
I guess I should add, I mainly asked in case someone said "Nooo, don't do that! It goes dirty grey over time.", or something similar.

Just about finished cutting the recess for the inlay. If I don't run out of steam tonight, I can pop it in tomorrow morning.

[Hermit]

The inlay recess is done, so at this point I'll stop updating this thread and continue in the guitar build thread.

Thanks again for all the help with this bit guys.