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Thread: skew chisel

  1. #1
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    Default skew chisel

    ok guys, here it goes, recently started woodturning and Im pretty comfortable with spindle gouges, the roughing gouge, parting tool and the skew for most things... but...

    The skew scares the*&^% out of me when I try to use it for planing. I have looked at guides on the net and I think Im doing most things ok and I can plane ok every now an then for short lengths, ie a couple of inches.

    My main problem is that the end result is rarely ever a symmetrical cylinger... always a good finish but rarely symmetrical (I can do it with the roughing gouge no probs). I could just give up and sand the damn thing down, for most things I do I dont need a spectacular finish anyway but I thought if any of you have any tips I should at least try them.

    And btw I have no time for a club, I'd love to but time is at a premium, when I do get to use any tools it is generally 30-60 minutes after work, when theres still a bit of light. Most weeken are alo non existent .

    regards

    marios
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

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  3. #2
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    Default

    My old teacher said 'use what you are comfortable with'. I know others will disagree with me but, I gave up on the skew and now use either the gouge or for a better finish a spindle master.

    Ross

  4. #3
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    Default

    Ross excuse my ignorance but what is a spindle master?
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

  5. #4
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    Default

    As in all things, mastering the skew chisel takes time and practise. If you want to improve your skills with this tool I think you are going to have to find the time to practise, practise and practise.
    Sorry about that but I know of no other way.

    Macca

  6. #5
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    Talking

    The skew, used properly, is one of the most satisfying of all the turning tools. You must find time to get some lessons, to nip bad habits in the bud. I have rarely had a problem with the skew as I was taught from scratch by a tutor who forgot to tell me how difficult and scary :eek: it was!
    A spindle master is one of Sorbys 'specials'(They are fond of producing these from time to time as the answer to all your problems'not') I have one at the back of my cupboard along with all the other 'must have' tools I was conned into buying when I started turning.
    Have a look at their website:www.robert-sorby.co.uk and all will be revealed.
    Jack the Lad.

  7. #6
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    Default

    I don't want to sound big headed ( but I do anyway!).....but...... the Skew is probably easier to master than the spindle gouge.
    For planing cuts:
    1; stand comfortably balanced with both feet parallel to the axis of the lathe and about as far apart as your shoulders.
    2; hold your tool so the handle is against your side
    3; place the chisel on the work with the cutting edge at approximately 45degrees to the direction of travel of the work.
    4; slowly lift and advance the tool till you see a small puff of 'dust' appear on the edge.
    5; begin to move your body, with the tool in tow, in the direction you wish to plane.
    6; repeat as per required till all gone!

    For ease of use don'thone the edge of the tool, hold the tool in an overhand grip, relax!!!

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by routermaniac

    The skew scares the*&^% out of me when I try to use it for planing. I have looked at guides on the net and I think Im doing most things ok and I can plane ok every now an then for short lengths, ie a couple of inches.

    marios
    I reckon the skew is a piece of cake.

    If the skew scares the *&^% out of you, try using one of these on the face a 8' Dia ring screwed to a cross arms trying to get it perfectly flat, with the tool on pedestal tool stand 4' away from the centre, and hoping like hell that it doesn't dig in.

  9. #8
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    I'm with you and also one of the many beginners who think that the skew is a difficult tool to master. I only have two woodturning books but they both say it's difficult for the beginner.

    Planing a long spindle is like cutting a bit off a table leg because it's too long and then finding out that you've taken off too much and having to shorten the other three to match it. Before you know it your dinner table is a coffee table. (and your spindle is a toothpick)
    Have a look at this thread.
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...7&page=1&pp=15

    Slow and steady is the key and Christopha's advice to "relax" is spot on.

  10. #9
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    Default

    DO IT NOW!!!!

    Learn how to use a skew!!!

    I was taught by a master turner that 90% of spindle work is with a skew, once you have mastered that the rest is FAIRLY simple!
    Cheers

    Major Panic

  11. #10
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    Default

    thanks for the advise guys... I didnt think that mastering the skew was going to happen overnight, so I will continue playing with it when I get a chance. For day to day stuff I will stick with my gouges, they seem to get the work done with little disappointments
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

  12. #11
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    Default

    Hei Guys,
    Call me a heretic but that spindle master looks like a cross between a skew and scraper.
    Wouldn't be that hard to make one.
    Cheers
    Paul

  13. #12
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    Default

    Smidsy - Yet another of the gimmick tools that Sorby make for wannabe turners who can't cut the mustard. They've discovered a goldmine in the form of wannabe's and must be making a fortune flogging them these sorts of tools.

    routermaniac - To use the skew easily and correctly follow Christopha's advice. But before doing that turn off the lathe and see what angles you would have to use to get a shaving off the timber without the aid of the lathe spinning... i.e. as you would if trying to take a shaving with a regular chisel off a flat piece of wood. These are the same angles you will use with the lathe running.

    Adding a little clarification to Christopha's post.,,, Hope he doesn't mind.

    3; place the tool on the toolrest then place the bevel of the chisel on the work with the cutting edge at approximately 45 degrees to the direction of travel of the work.

    5; begin to move your body, with the tool in tow, in the direction you wish to plane. Keep the tool angle constant. Do not raise or lower the handle end of the too unless you are following a curve.

    Now adding to Christopha's post.

    7; might sound silly, but make sure the tool is always resting on the toolrest, never try and lift it from the rest whilst in contact with the timber, don't have it resting on your finger or anything other than the tool rest.

    8; keep the cut in the centre or lower half or the tool, get above centre an you will most likely get a really big dig in.

    9; keep the bevel of the tool rubbing at all times this is what enables you to make the tool go where you want it to. Bevel rubbing - lift handle deeper cut, lower handle finer cut.

    Lifting the bevel off the timber will help create chatter and will usually end with a dig in, unless you are a really experienced turner. Until then keep the bevel rubbing.

    Cheers - Neil

    PS Relax, don't choke the tool, it will work much better.
    56 Rock n Roll rebel....... Too old to die young and too young to be an old fart. Guess I'll just keep on rockin and refuse grow old gracefully.


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  14. #13
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    What'd I tell ya!
    Jack the Lad.

  15. #14
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    Bloody wacker, can't leave a bloke alone..... gotta muddy the waters and confuse the punters....
    Last edited by Neil; 2nd May 2005 at 06:48 PM.

  16. #15
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    Default

    Listen ere boofead.... The waters was already muddy and jumpin head first into muddy waters usually leads to trouble. What sounds simple, straight forward and logical to us sperienced turners isn't always that clear or straight forward to a novice. :confused:

    Muddyin the waters - not likely just, trying to make them a little clearer. Something as simple and obvious to us as placing the tool on the tool rest first, isn't necessarily as obvious to a novice.


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