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23rd October 2013, 11:25 AM #121
Thanks Jim, I forgot all about hot-melt glue. Very handy, particularly for temporary joints. Now that I have the lathe I have to get some. I want to have a go at some 'missing segment' turning, by gluing in some small timber segments with hot melt glue while turning, then removing them afterwards to leave patterned gaps in the turned walls. Saw a couple of videos and I'm hooked.
Edit: Looking forward to your next build, when you get time. Another coach?... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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23rd October 2013 11:25 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th October 2013, 03:47 AM #122Novice
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24th October 2013, 05:47 AM #123Senior Member
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Steve,
Sounds like a cool use for hot melt. Wish I had room for a lathe, table saw, scroll saw..... Oh well, perhaps mini-versions...
When I get back home....early November...I'm going to start either a Sopwith Camel or Stevenson Rocket. Yep, one is a biplane and the other a steam engine. I kind of enjoy the variety.....hope there is no issue with their being posted here....they are both scale models....don't recall the scale tho...
Don,
Be sure and start a log when you start the build!
Cheers,
Jim
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24th October 2013, 08:51 AM #124
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25th October 2013, 12:20 AM #125Novice
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12th November 2013, 05:21 AM #126Novice
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chassis not level
Script: The chassis is finished but when it sits on the table the aft end sits lower than the front (chassis not level) If this isnt normal then the pictorals and instruction are incorrect. Because I checked the diagrams several times and did it how they showed. Do I have a problem or is this normal ??
Thanks
Don
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14th November 2013, 02:17 AM #127Senior Member
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Don,
A picture would help me understand better but......the wheel size difference means one axle is under the main frame and the other is over so the net result is level when the wheels are mounted. Not sure that answers your question but is my best guess without a pic.
And sorry to take so long to respond....guests staying with us has limited my time.....
Cheers,
Jim
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15th November 2013, 12:51 AM #128Novice
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Jim, I can adjust the levelness of the coach itself by moving it back and forth on the "straps" dont know why this condition exists but its too late now once the glue has set up your screwed not going to hack into it now. Like I said I followed directions and pictorals to the letter.. Nobody but me will notice anyhow.
Thanks for your answer.
Don
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15th November 2013, 05:31 AM #129Senior Member
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Don,
When I attached the coach to the chassis, I didn't use any glue. The etched brass straps with crossbars I made out of straight pins seemed to hold well enough. I also did the whole mounting process with the coach sitting upside down.....made it easier to adjust everything.
By the way, did you start a build log or have you taken any pictures? I'm certain it all looks fine and I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see it!
Cheers,
Jim
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15th November 2013, 10:12 AM #130Novice
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Jim, I didnt take any pictures because you seemed to have covered that very well. (see one see em all !!) Getting ready to do the roof.. Doors are done and fitted, not installed yet. Did you put any windows in the coach? I always hated that job because its too easy to get finger prints on them but I'll try anyhow.. One sure has to pay attention to those instructions. I found myself getting ahead of them and sure enough screwed up. Fortunately no glue was involved just "pins" this is a beautiful kit. Best wood I've ever dealt with. And everything fits perfect. Laser cuts are perfect with no burning.
Later Jim..
Don
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19th November 2013, 05:17 AM #131Novice
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Upolstery
Jim, how did you do the "dimples" or buttons in the seats and what size "pins" did you do for the door hinges and to secure the cabin to the chassis ??
I dont think they are included in the kit. My hardware store doesnt stock anything that small.
Thanks again
Don
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20th November 2013, 02:43 AM #132Senior Member
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Hi Don,
I used a center punch for the dimples. I first attached the leather to the foam pads with spray adhesive and after it dried, punched the dimple patterns.
The .5mm straight pins I used to replace the 'too large' nails provided came from Joann Fabrics' sewing section. They seemed to be a perfect fit for all the small needs, including the luggage and such.
Hope that helps!
Jim
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20th November 2013, 05:15 AM #133Novice
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20th November 2013, 08:32 AM #134Novice
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total hours
I started this stagecoach on a Fri and looks like I will finish it this Friday. (2 weeks) X 7-8 hours per day. Looks like around 112 total hours The manual says it can be done in 30 hours.. Now I have a Virginia Sloop to build. Thats gonna have to wait awhile. Maybe after the first of the year Gonna catch up on my tv and a little beer drinkin !! Hell I earned it. If I can learn how to post pictures I'll give it a try.. But.... I still have the guns and luggage to do. And I'm not looking forward to that (know what I mean??)' Later my friends..
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22nd November 2013, 01:04 AM #135Novice
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etched brass straps
A word to the wise......If you buy this kit remember not to install the etched brass strips until the very end when you want to hook them up. The manual shows pinning them on early in the cabin building process. These should be installed as the very last step. Because you have a lot of work to do on the cabin itself. And you'll bend them until they just fall apart like mine did and now
I will have to glue the cabin to the chassis. Once they break I dont see anyway of repairing them.As others have said in different forums the manual isnt very clear there is no such thing as step 1-2-3-etc. And the manual tends to lead one astray. If you make a mistake with pinning down something, no problem you can remove your mistake and make corrections, but if you glue something down especially using ca glue your just screwed and you'll have to live with this mistake. Take your time think the next step out and use good reasoning. Think ahead...
Regards
Doni f it aint broke fix it till it is !!
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