Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 24
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    158

    Default Replacing Floors in Victorian House

    I live in Hawthorn in Melbourne and we have an old Victorian home. The floors are pretty dodgy and sagging and bouncing in quite a few places.

    Part of the kitchen floor literally collapsed a few weeks ago and I had to pull away the affected floor. I looked underneath and the joists were literally just sitting on a stack of unmortared bricks which were in turn sitting on dirt. Clearance under the house is no more than 50-75cm.

    I guess the rest of the house is set up the same way. Joists sitting on a brick pier between the brick walls. The walls of the house are not supporting the floors in any way I don't think.

    Anyway, I was wondering whether I could replace the flooring myself. I've done a bit of research into the best methods for these old houses and found some useful diagrams. See http://users.tpg.com.au/vgolf/flooring/flooring.html

    Do you guys have any opinions as to what would be the best way to do this (ie which of the methods in the above link). I was thiking either option 1 or 4.

    Also, do yo recommend this as a DIY project? It doesn't look that difficult, but I guess I have never done it before so I'm not fully up on all the pitfalls.

    The reason I am looking at doing this myself is I doubt I would be able to afford to pay someone to do this for quite a long time, and I'm not sure I can wait!

    Thanks in advance.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Queanbeyan
    Age
    60
    Posts
    1,252

    Default

    You can do this job yourself, but you need to do quite a bit of homework and be prepared to be living in dirt for a long time.

    The value of getting it professionally done, is that they will be quick and good (all things being equal)

    The value of doing it yourself, is the value of doing it yourself along with the potential cost savings.

    Make sure you get quotes for all materials from a variety of places

    soil testing, pest control, stumps, concrete, bearers, joists, flooring, nails, screws etc.

    If you end up lifting the floor it may be a good time to look at ducting for the heating as well. Even if it is over your budget now, putting in the ducting is relatively cheap and can save some heartache down the track.

    how about some photos

    Cheers
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    158

    Default

    Do you mean photos of the sub floor? I've patched up the kitchen floor now so there's nothing I can really take of the sub floor.

    If I was to do it myself, any ideas how long it would take? Is it possiblt to do it one room at a time?

    BTW, this really is a great forum!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5,014

    Default

    This is a topic that crops from time to time in this forum.

    Try having a look at this thread:

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...eplacing+floor

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Queanbeyan
    Age
    60
    Posts
    1,252

    Default

    You can definitely do it - room by room. This increases the cost, because you dont quite get the same margins as buying stuff in bulk. I think the main limitation is your floor height across adjoining rooms. In other words you want to start from a room in the corner of the house and make sure the next room joins on so you can keep heights and levels across the house.

    I would set aside a fortnight per room. Consider getting soil testing done as this will influence your decision re: stumps. Also look at pest control when the floors are up. Notwithstanding these two things....

    1 day demolition
    1 day layout
    2 day stumps
    1 day bearers
    1 day joists
    1 day floor
    2 days sanding/finishing
    1 day skirtings/archs
    25 days deciding where furniture goes.

    This is a DIY by yourself guide. If you had a mate, handy with tools etc then your probably realistically looking at 4 days.

    And I meant photos of your wife.

    Kidding. Photos of the floors as they are and then some progress photos etc - always interesting

    Cheers
    There was a young boy called Wyatt
    Who was awfully quiet
    And then one day
    He faded away
    Because he overused White


    Floorsanding in Canberra and Albury.....

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    158

    Default

    Thanks for the help. I'll try and get some photos.

    Does anyone have any recommendations and/or advice about where would be the place to source materials for this type of project? Should I just go to Bunnings?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    149

    Default

    Go to Bunnings if and only if you want to re-mortgage your house.

    In Melbourne, go to places like Hudsons Timber and Hardware for good timber or The Tile Importers for really cheap timber but you have to select each and every piece!

    Decide on type of flooring before you begin...the thickness of the cover can mean wider spaced joists...if yellow tounge is enough then you will get away with it cheaply....if brushbox or similar is your choice, then be prepared for a shock. example 5.5x4.8 room in yellow tounge = $260 5.5x2.5 hallway in brushbox = $1100

    Stumps, bearers and joists are very easy to fit and reasonably cheap if you know how and you could do it room by room as budget/partner allows.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    158

    Default

    I think I will do the front room/study first and see how I go. If I can manage that, I should be able to do the rest of the house...fingers crossed.

    The house is pretty much all carpet, except the back which is slate on a concrete slab. I'm thinking of keeping the carpet in the bedrooms (I hate hard floors in bedrooms even with rugs) but having floorboards in the hall and living room.

    At the moment, the carpet in the bedrooms seems to be on particle board. For carpet that's no problem I guess. Should I just do the same again to keep costs down a bit?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    It sounds like the problem is that it needs restumping.
    So does the flooring itself need replacing?
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    158

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    It sounds like the problem is that it needs restumping.
    So does the flooring itself need replacing?
    The house doesn't seem to have any stumps (is that normal?). Just joists sitting on pretty crappy crumbling brick piers which are sitting straight on top of dirt.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    Just sounds like a previous owner has stacked bricks up instead of restumping properly.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Age
    76
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Re stumps - I think that whether or not a house has stumps depends on when it was built and possibly the location.

    My house, in a rural area of NSW, was built in the late 1800's on stone and rubble foundations. Each interior wall is supported on it's own solid foundation (that is, the underfloor support mirror the room layout above). This meant that any manhole only gave access to the area under the room the manhole was in. And the area beneath each room is clear - no stumps. The joists sit on "steps" in the foundation.

    The house is on a slope/hill so there is more room under the front of the house, while the back is almost on ground level. The back floors are a bit spongy but the rest are rock solid.

    Some years ago, when we decided that power points in all of the rooms might be handy, we made access holes through the foundations from one under floor area to another. Nothing has collapsed - yet. And it allows for at least some ventilation.

    We are currently looking for a trained rat/snake/extremely thin person to access the underfloor area at the rear of the house.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    158

    Default

    It's an old Victorian style house, built in about 1905. It seems like the outer brick walls and inner walls don't provide any support for the floors at all. From what I believe that is not uncommon around here. See pic below:



    Is there any need for stumps for a house like this?

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    There were no building regulations in those olden days, construction was left totally to the individual carpenter

    In that era the walls were usually built on their own stumps and the floor was supported by separate stumps. It was common to use a bit of log as a stump then.

    Brick piers on concrete footings are quite good but they should be laid with mortar.

    I've seen a few Victorian era houses that have had loose brick piers stuck in when the original stumps rotted away.

    From point of view of restoring the foundations it is usually far easier to use stumps rather than excavate footings for piers when you're working underneath the house. Even if sections of the floor are lifted you can't get machinery inside to dig big footings for piers.

    Its a hard heavy job to do yourself so I suggest getting a Pro Restumper to do it.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    158

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    From point of view of restoring the foundations it is usually far easier to use stumps rather than excavate footings for piers when you're working underneath the house. Even if sections of the floor are lifted you can't get machinery inside to dig big footings for piers.

    Its a hard heavy job to do yourself so I suggest getting a Pro Restumper to do it.
    I guess I was planning to do it room by room by ripping up the entire floor and the sub floor and starting from scratch. I don't mind if it takes a bit longer and is hard work as I can't afford to pay someone to do it all in one go. The floor boards are no good to keep and in many places it is just chip board.

    Just out of curiosity, can anyone tell me what the spacings for joists and bearers for a floor should be?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •