Workshop wood flooring/walls

[groeneaj]

Hey Crowie,

Yes I can't wait either. I'm planning to build all my cabinets myself to cut costs and so I can customise to how I want it. It will take a little while but should be worth it.

[DaveTTC]

i had to build and line a building to hold 2 diesel generators capable to run a town of 8000 each. It was in a semi urban area and only 80 decibels was allowed to register at the footpath when both were running. The room was clad with perforated sheet-metal and baffles at the air vents also made out of perforated sheet-metal.

I know there was a lot more science that went into it, size of openings, angle of baffles etc but in your situation I imagine preg board would likely do the trick it you are after acoustic value

[groeneaj]

After a lot of thinking I've decided to go with an epoxy floor finish. I've got to first spend about a week moving everything out of the workshop but then I'll be ready.

I need to first prepare the surface. It's currently got a paint surface over the concrete slab and it's peeling away.
Could someone please give me some advice on the best method to remove the old paint?

Secondly, I need to repair the surface as it's got some chips etc that will stand out once the new finish is applied. I've done some research and it seems that a self levelling concrete mix is the way to go? Can anyone give me some tips on applying this?

And lastly, does anyone have an epoxy finish that they can recommend? I've only seen the ones sold at bunnings.

Thanks

Andy.

[groeneaj]

Close up photo of the floor. It may be hard to tell but it's uneven.

[crowie]

G'Day Andy,
I asked a couple of builder mates and Ray [rwbuild] answer is following...Cheers, crowie
************************************************************************************************************************
G'Day Peter

1 Hire a needle scabling gun (electric in preference to air operated) or a concrete grinder
(think 2 counter rotating heads with grinding stones instead of polishing) and do the whole floor


2 Fill any divots in the concrete with either either builders bog or neat cement

3 Epoxy finishes are relatively expensive and need to be applied using an approved breathing mask

4 My suggestion would be items 1 & 2 then use a good quality paving paint in a preferred colour and give it 2 good coats
and allow to cure for at least 48hrs before putting everything back.

Another option is to acid wash the floor (6 parts water to 1 part acid {that's a bit stronger than normally recommended})
because you need to really attack the paint and get under it



This will be substantially cheaper than his plan

The last thing you want is an epoxy floor that is too slippery

If he wants to stick to his original plan, needle gun or grind the floor first then simply follow the instructions on the ardite bags.

Regards
Ray

[I_wanna_Shed]

After a lot of thinking I've decided to go with an epoxy floor finish. I've got to first spend about a week moving everything out of the workshop but then I'll be ready.

I need to first prepare the surface. It's currently got a paint surface over the concrete slab and it's peeling away.
Could someone please give me some advice on the best method to remove the old paint?

Secondly, I need to repair the surface as it's got some chips etc that will stand out once the new finish is applied. I've done some research and it seems that a self levelling concrete mix is the way to go? Can anyone give me some tips on applying this?

And lastly, does anyone have an epoxy finish that they can recommend? I've only seen the ones sold at bunnings.

Thanks

Andy.

Hi Andy,

I used a product from Bondcrete: "Bondall Garage and Factory Floor Protector". I found it at Masters. 2 coats did the trick. I've always heard good things about Bondcrete products so thought I would give this a go. I originally used it because the existing concrete surface was dusty - it was a headache to keep the shed clean because whenever I would sweep I would kick up more very fine cement dust than there were shavings.

It was easy to apply. A mate and I spent a lot of time sweeping and blowing the surface, then a lot of time acid washing the surface to ensure we had a good starting point.

I couldn't be happier. Spills such as oils wipe right off the floor, it has a fine grit in it so it isn't too slippery when wet or covered in shavings.

Pics are here, in post# 10. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/a...layout-163845/

Nathan.

[BobL]

I need to first prepare the surface. It's currently got a paint surface over the concrete slab and it's peeling away.
Could someone please give me some advice on the best method to remove the old paint?.

What sort of paint is it?

I would think you would need to follow the preparation recommended by the paint supplier.

[Wrongwayfirst]

Don't suppose you have thought of polished concrete? I really like it. Think when we had our lounge rumpus done it was about $90 per sq mtr but it is a finished never to be repeated surface. You can do a cheaper epoxy coated version of polished concrete lasts about 10 years. Think that one was about $70 per sq mtr

[ian]

Hi Andy

what loose paint a water blaster won't remove can be left on the floor

Are you sure that epoxy paint won't become too slippery?

the uneven floor -- after you've placed the machines and put a few anti-fatigue mats down, will anyone notice a slightly uneven floor?

[groeneaj]

Thanks for all the replies and help.

I'll call around and look for a needle scabling gun or concrete grinder.

As for the epoxy being slippery, I plan to use those non slip products that you apply to the epoxy whilst it's drying. In saying that I'm certainly not set on using an epoxy finish, I'm open up to other suggestions.

I'm mainly just after a nice smooth surface. I'll do some research on builders bog, it's certainly something I've never heard of.


Cheers

Andy.

[groeneaj]

Hi Andy

what loose paint a water blaster won't remove can be left on the floor

Are you sure that epoxy paint won't become too slippery?

the uneven floor -- after you've placed the machines and put a few anti-fatigue mats down, will anyone notice a slightly uneven floor?

Hi Ian,

The floor is level, it's more so the surface has small chips throughout which will stand out when I apply the finish.

Andy

[groeneaj]

Don't suppose you have thought of polished concrete? I really like it. Think when we had our lounge rumpus done it was about $90 per sq mtr but it is a finished never to be repeated surface. You can do a cheaper epoxy coated version of polished concrete lasts about 10 years. Think that one was about $70 per sq mtr

Thanks for the suggestion but it's bit too expensive for a workshop floor. I have seen this look and it does look nice though!

Cheers

Andy

[BobL]

Hi Ian,

The floor is level, it's more so the surface has small chips throughout which will stand out when I apply the finish.

Andy

If it is only small chips I would just drizzle a bit more epoxy into them. It will be nearly as hard as concrete.

[wheelinround]

Andy I know what your going through one reason I have the carpet down. In my case renting means can't do a thing. Its just pure crap concrete Masterons subbies used. Yet next door is fine.