Workshop wood flooring/walls

[groeneaj]

Hi all,

I've decided to install floating floorboards in my workshop and would like some advice please.

I'm set on installing these - Laminate Floors Floating Floor Cheapest Laminate Flooring Timber Floor Boards | eBay


Before I commit I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of any other floorboards to consider? Or if you have installed flooring yourself I'd like to know what you used and how it's performed since.

Also, I'm installing sound absorbing batts around my workshop that will sit in between studs with a plywood lining over the top. Do I install the boards first then the stud wall, plywood etc, or the other way around? And I'd also be interested to see what you used as your plywood lining.


Thanks

Kind regards,
Andy

[rat52]

I can't comment on the type of flooring except to say it has to be hard wearing so avoid the thin veneer types.
my shed is metal so I insulated between the steel grits then lined with 12mm ply direct to the steel. This makes it easy to fix shelving and cupboards.

[Ross]

On the floor I have pirelli tiles and around the walls I have been placing my timbers and holding them on with occy straps.

Ross

[Pat]

Andy, I used orange tongue flooring, with a double layer of concrete plastic and a layer of aircell. I laid the floor prior to doing the walls. I used 16mm white melamine for the walls as I detest painting. Walls and roof are insulated with aircell and then on the western wall, batts.

One suggestion, if you seal the flooring, add some sand or other grip as mine can get slippery with dust - Sanding and turning are the two culprits.

[groeneaj]

Thanks for the replies. I'll post some pics when I start fitting out my new workshop.


Cheers,
Andy

[Benwoodgo]

Hi Andy,

I am in the process of lining my shed at the moment. Will put a WIP up soon.

I cant comment on the flooring but for the walls i have insulated with some R.3 batts i got cheap on ebay then lined with 17mm plywood i got reasonably cheap ($40 a sheet). The roof is lined with plasterboard and insulated aswell.

I havent got any machinery in there yet but as far as noise goes i can have the radio up way too loud to be comfortable inside and barely hear it outside. The thick plywood and insulation is a very good combo for soundproofing. The reason i went 17mm was to allow me to screw to any part of the walls for hanging tools etc without having to worry about finding studs but the unnintentional added noise barrier is very pleasing as i have neighbours that feel obliged to let me know that they know when im in the shed, or when the dog barks, or when i have people over, or when....

Just make sure you thoroughly think out your wiring before you get too carried away.

Ben

[Chief Tiff]

I laid a similar type of laminate flooring in a house about fifteen yes ago back in the UK, the only difference was that is was tongue and groove rather than click-lock. Fitting it was really easy but I spent hours arranging the planks into boards to get the best appearance.

You have to lay this on a very level floor so ideally you need to throw some self levelling compound down onto the concrete. Next, the floor is a "floating" floor, so it sits on a couple of mill of foam underlay and needs a gap of about 10mm all round between it and the walls. You then put up your skirting boards to hide the join.

It's made form 8mm thick MDF which then has a melamine layer bonded onto it. This means it's really hard wearing until you manage to to gouge or scratch it, then it's bug***ed! And really difficult to pull out a single board.

Pat's comment about dust is very valid, this stuff will be like an ice rink if you sand on it.

For my shed this stuff wouldn't be suitable; I have some heavy machinery that gets gets moved around a lot plus I always have a layer of wood dust, shavings and other detritus kicking around. If you're heavily into turning or hand tools only then it might work for you, especially if you know how to use a broom!

[groeneaj]

Ben,
I'm looking forward to seeing your pics.

I have double brick construction in my workshop which in itself will provide good sound proofing.
After consultation with an acoustic engineer he recommended to add sound absorbing batts on the walls. I'll be putting acoustic insulation batts in the roof (it currently has nothing) and still need to finalise my plan for the double doors.

I like the idea of 17mm ply, it's a bit more expensive than the 12mm I've been looking at ($25.50). I was thinking of adding a few extra studs to where I think I'll need extra support such as for my timber rack.

Cheers
Andy

[jrock_au]

I would build the wall first. This will make it easier to replace the flooring if it needs to be done later down the track. Also if it is a"timber" based flooring product it will want to be10mm away from walls to allow it to expand without buckling or pushing walls out..... Worst case. The gap can be hidden by skirting or the wall lining.

[DaveTTC]

Pat - would love to see pics of your floor walls and whatever


I will b ere-doing my workshop. Tongue and groove structa-floor. Over this I intend to lay regular floorboards. The sheet flooring I will lay under the walls and the timber I will lay between the exterior walls.

As I intend to have some heavy machinery I will beef up the specs on my joists and bearers. I also intend to run my dust extractor under the floor.

sound insulation will be important too, not sure how I will go about that yet

[Pat]

Dave, it's been a while since I've seen the junction of the walls and floor. The walls were clad first and then the flooring.

Here is an early pic of an empty shed and then a shed full of carp

[DaveTTC]

How good does the insulation work?

Was it for sound or temp?

[Pat]

Dave, the insulation was mainly for temperature. Definitely makes the shed more usable thru the mild winters here on the coast and all but the hottest, still days. The melamine walls also help with the sound insulation.

[groeneaj]

I've ordered my sound absorbing material, however I need ideas to line the walls. Originally I was going to use plywood, but after speaking to the acoustic engineer he recommends that I need around 40% of the absorbing material exposed in order to get the best results.

I have considered just drilling holes in the plywood but I'm looking at other options. I was looking at some cypress pine decking for $2/m and was thinking of spacing them along the wall. Does anyone else have any suggestions?

Cheers.

Andy

[crowie]

Can't wait to see this shed/workshop you're about to put together Andy...... though I might be a little jealous when I do .... Cheers, crowie