Another GIS build in OZ

[TeeDee]

After far too much time spent on long, and some no so long, bits of timber, I finally bought some ply. (ouch that hurt the hip pocket)
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This is quite good fun.
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Some old diving weights to keep the curve under control. They are wrapped in masking tape so they don't leave marks and I hope also reduce any possible health problems.
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Two days later and all except centre seat and fore and aft flotation tops ready to go.
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Bulkheads ready to stick together.
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dry assembly to make sure all the bits are in the right spots
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assemble with epoxy and a few clamps as well
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bulkhead one assembled and the bevels done. Unfortunately I was not paying enough attention and planed across the end grain and chipped a chunk out. Bottom right hand corner where the packaging tape is pulled off.
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Epoxy is amazing. You can barely see the offending spot. Bit of sandpaper and it will be just like new.
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I decided to put fibreglass on the inside of the centreboard box to help with any wear issues.

cheers Trevor D

[Flatdog]

Looking good Trevor. I have three different containers with wood flour in for any of those emegency patch-ups if I've got a bit of epoxy left over. I've saved the wood flour from oregon, okoume and any other wood I've sanded.

Cheers,
Kev.

[TeeDee]

Kev, with that clean and tidy workspace of yours, I'm not surprised that you have all your saved wood dust organised in boxes. I'm afraid my discipline is somewhat lacking in comparison. Just yesterday I had some leftover epoxy and wanted to add some "flour" to fill a nail hole. I had to hunt around and finally got just the right stuff from the belt sander.
You will be pleased to hear I put the excess into a box for future use. Just one box though. If I had three boxes, I'm sure I wouldn't be able to find any of them.
cheers Trevor D

[TeeDee]

Onto the transom. Trouble is this piece is about 3 mm too thick. Thanks to Sumbloaks thread above, a simple solution.
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Select timber. Will worry about nail holes later.
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Make up sled and attach router following Sumbloaks model. My little trimming router not as powerful as Sumbloaks.
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Slow, but accurate enough for my purposes.
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Now to attend to those nail holes.
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I rather like this system. Now to take 2 mm off the centrecase.
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Back to the transom, I know the plans say to use clamps so holes don't impair the looks.
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Obviously I didn't follow these instructions. I'm working on the principle that if I space the fasteners evenly and then colour the holes, they will look as though they are supposed to be there and thus not really noticeable. (fingers crossed)
Cheers Trevor D

[TeeDee]

Have framed and beveled the bulkheads. Slight hiccup with the bevel on the bottom of the transom. Was about a third of the way planing the angle when the little voice in my head said "Are you sure this is the right side??" Of course it wasn't, so epoxy came to my rescue and a day later and extra time meant , " I hope it's right now"
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The butt straps for the sides hidden by some handy bits of lead. The gaps in the wooden balcony meant there were a few lumpy bits on the underside when dry that had to be sanded off. At least I got to it before it was rock hard. Also glad the baking paper didn't leak. That would have made a mess to the deck as well as the sides.
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Chine logs attached.
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Bit of a problem with the centreboard box and rudder assembly. I coated both of them on the inside with fibreglass and epoxy. The plan then to paint the wear surfaces with Aquacote two part high build primer followed by their top coat. After 4 days the primer coat still just feels soft and rubbery. I think I did about three things not quite right. I think coats may have been a bit thick, temperature not quite high enough ( it was about 18ºC) , and humidity in the air at night when the temperature went down.
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Pictured is the inside surfaces of the rudder assembly. After scraping this lot off, I will wait for a much warmer day, thinner coats and bring pieces inside the house overnight. Will report back in a few days.
cheers Trevor D.

[davlafont]

Looking good!

You may have mentioned this before, but I just noticed your BH2 treatment. Is the left-side cut out meant for a hatch panel if some sort? Flush fit maybe? Secret compartment for booty perhaps?


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[TeeDee]

Dave, yes your keen eyes are correct, extra small hatch. The plan is that an extra vertical piece of ply between bulkheads 1 and 2 ; using the mast step an partner on the top and bottom. Room for small items that I tend to misplace all the time. Putting it in at this stage much easier than when everything is built. Only by trying to use it will I find out if it was a good idea or not. It is enjoyable though, customising to your own needs and wants.
cheers Trevor D.

[Flatdog]

when the little voice in my head

Aaaaaahhhhhh Trevor. You too.

[TeeDee]

Kev, the little voice kept talking to me today.
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"Hmm, I was expecting the scraping off to be a lot harder than that"
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Bit of water, hardly any "elbow grease" required. But what did I do so wrong that this stuff comes off so easily?
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When I opened the cans, I wanted to make sure the lids didn't get mixed up. So labeled them.
Then I found out the "answer"..............
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Sorry the pic is a bit blurry. I bought this lot about four weeks ago and only today looked carefully at the labels... x2 part b hardener. With no part A, it's never going to work.
It wasn't me. The man at the shop selected the items from the shelf.
So little voice... I'm not that incompetent after all. Well not this time anyway.
Cheers Trevor D.

[TeeDee]

I'm excited!! I now know why flatpack furniture is so popular
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You start the day off with some dull looking flat pieces of ply.
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With a bit of care, staying to the drawn lines, some handy elastic ,
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add some temporary screws,
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another couple of long sticks,
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and of course the magical ingrediant, epoxy............I have a boat!!!!
As othrs have reported a very rewarding part of the build.
cheers, Trevor D

[TeeDee]

Putting the bottom on is mentioned a number of times as being a bit traumatic. So thanks to all those who have gone before with their advice and experiences. It made me think a bit before any action. (easy to say, not always easy to do) I chose my slowest hardener and only just got it all on in the time available. Warm day didn't help much 27ºC (80.6).
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Dry fit. Well more like dry placement. When doing the bulk heads and sides I found the dry fit, pull down, then reassemble method a bit pressured. My screws didn't all go back in the exact same spot, so one of the bulkheads was out enough to be disappointing but not so much to feel the need to remedy the situation. Quite a few times I also found the screws turning in the holes but no grip. I had "stripped" the thread, which meant I had to then make another hole to ensure the bits held together.
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So my alternate method was to position the bottom accurately without screws.
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The excess, which will later be trimmed off, was the perfect spot to add some temporary locating blocks. 4 on each side and three at the transom.
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As with any of my plans, slight modifications are often needed. The split block fell apart when I lifted the bottom from the upper section.
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The spacers helped. Mainly I think by the screws not going too deep into the blocks.
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As with a few others, building boats without helpers around means sometimes doing things a bit different. Had to get the epoxy spread, then put the bottom on without mucking up the glue, doing it accurately and without helpers.
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I suspended the bottom above the work with some light stands.
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I then had lots of room to lay on the adhesive, then just go around and let the bottom down dropping each stand a little at a time so the bottom stayed reasonably level and dropping onto the right spot. I was very pleased with the method. It was accurate and I didn't have any unneeded holes. I also didn't have to lift a large floppy piece of ply onto fresh epoxy.
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My part A epoxy arrived. In some ways it was good I had to do this again. I always do a better job when I do it a second time. This time I remembered to mask off the spots not needing paint. Ready to now glue together.

cheers Trevor D

[Northstar]

Trevor you clever clever guy. Wish you lived next door so you could help this dim wit.

[TeeDee]

Northstar, that is a very good idea. Having a boat building "buddy" next door would be great.
Hmmmm......... Minnesota.........isn't it cold there?
I have an alternative suggestion.
You could move to my neighbourhood. Here have a look, my neighbour would like to rent out some spare real estate not being used to its fullest potential.
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It is actually rather interesting. My neighbour is the third generation on the same property. That cottage was built by his grandparents, shortly after they arrived in 1896. They came from Germany, set up an orchard, which then got dismantled in the 1970's, being uneconomical to continue.
As to the clever bit. I didn't feel too clever working on my daughters car during the week. I don't really enjoy car maintenance, but I was trying to save her some money. It took me two days to do what is supposed to take 2.1 hours.
I showed you my "drop the bottom onto the top" solution, but didn't mention the gaps that I had to fill with epoxy where bulkheads met chinelog. That also was not too clever.
Now this internet thing is very clever. We all have boat building colleagues "next door".
However, an extra pair of hands now and then, would be good.

cheers Trevor D

[TeeDee]

Wow, I haven't updated for ages. I have been working away making extra work for myself doing "It seemed like a good idea at the time" tasks.
the first one which entailed extra effort was the little cupboard between bulkheads 1+2. Lip for door, supports for shelves and two shelves. Of course there is there inevitable "That's not right" moment, this time the shelves as made, were not going to be able to come out of the hatch space, once the deck was in place. I now have four pieces of timber to make up the two shelves. Lots of fiddling around. At this point I think it will be fine.
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The next self inflicted extra work was my decision to go with wood hatches. Two layers of ply to make lip and a 3 mm gap for seal.
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With the hatches on the deck and rear seat I added a little bit of extra support framing to reduce flexing.
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I had some old varnish, so decided to give the insides of the buoyancy chambers a couple of coats before gluing down.
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But wait, there is more sillyness. Capping for the top of the centreboard case. I don't want to think how many extra hours were added to the build. It was fun.
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Back to normal building. Front deck, rear seat.
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cheers Trevor D.

[davlafont]

But wait, there is more sillyness. Capping for the top of the centreboard case. I don't want to think how many extra hours were added to the build. It was fun.
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I spent quite a bit of time trying to do something clever here too. I wanted to incorporate a piece of Black Walnut (which also appears in my three corner braces) but the lumber is three times thicker than the ply of the thwart seat and not quite wide enough to incorporate my plans for cleats forward. After many hours and many beers over the course of many days I realized that this diversion was stalling my momentum and I abandoned the Walnut. So, you're not crazy; you're persistent!