Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    6

    Default Gyprock lining for garage

    Good afternoon everyone,

    I am currently putting new Gyprock to the interior of my garage which is timber framed and has fibro on the outside. I am having problems with putting gyprock around the opening of the garage's roller door. When the B&D technician fitted the roller door to my garage, he fixed the rails and overhead holding brackets (?) directly to the timber frame. I have removed the roller door when I started putting gyprock as I want to cover the ceiling with gyprock up to the corner above the roller door and the lintel. Now I am having problems with covering the sides of the opening and the lintel. If I just leave the roller door rails and overhead brackets as they are now and cut the gyprock to fit around them, the roller door will be too close and touch the gyprock covering the lintel. The gyprock on the side of the rails may also look ugly as I cut around the rail screw brackets. If I detach the rails and overhead brackets, line the gyprock and then put the rails and overhead brackets back, the gyprock will look nicer and no more problems with roller door touching the gyprock above.

    My questions are, if I go with option 2, will the rails and overhead brackets still be strong enough to support the roller door as all the screws are now not fixed directly to the timber but going through a 10mm of gyprock layer first. Will the gyprock under the rails and overhead brackets be broken because of the roller door's weight and too close to the edges (rail screws will be about 6-7cm from the gyprock edges). I appreciate very much for your replies.

    Haph

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,363

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haph

    My questions are, if I go with option 2, will the rails and overhead brackets still be strong enough to support the roller door as all the screws are now not fixed directly to the timber but going through a 10mm of gyprock layer first.
    Haph
    If you are worried use longer screws or drill right through and use bolts nuts &
    and you can try some padding ply etc... between rails and giprock to spread the load over bigger area of giprock ,may reduce stress /cracking


    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,779

    Default

    I wouldn't be screwing roller door brackets on through Gyprock because you'll have 10mm or so of plaster crumbling between the bracket and the stud and it will probably work loose over time.

    It would be better to fix a hardwood strip for the plaster to butt up against and screw the hardware to it instead.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks Ashore and SilentC for your advices. If I use hard wood strip, what kind of hard wood should I use and if they are available in 10mm thick. Can I use 10mm ply wood as alternative?

    Thanks,
    Haph

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,779

    Default

    I reckon you can use whatever you like as long as it wont compress when you screw your brackets to it. Have a look at the local hardware shop, they'll probably have small section sizes of Tassie Oak or similar that would do the trick. Don't see any problem with using ply either.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sale
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,328

    Smile

    The brackets to our panel lift door go right through the gyprock ceiling, and we have had no trouble. However we did fix a piece of 4" angle on edge behind each bracket to spread the load to prevent vibration destroying the sheet. The panel lift is a PIA for vibration, it is hard on the hinges and having a low head room kit means the motor really strains compared to a rollerdoor. Your question is the walls only I gather, if it is a standard roller door. Our rear door is a roller and fixed direct to the brickwork, not sure if I would have been so keen to mount that through plaster sheet, as the brackets are probably more unsightly than the methods mentioned.

    JohnC

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,363

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haph
    Thanks Ashore and SilentC for your advices. If I use hard wood strip, what kind of hard wood should I use and if they are available in 10mm thick. Can I use 10mm ply wood as alternative?

    Thanks,
    Haph
    Tassi Oak lining board comes in at 12 mm But a good ply would be better


    On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock

    Never let a chance go by
    Advice from an old Newcastle Boy




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Magill, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,537

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashore
    Tassi Oak lining board comes in at 12 mm But a good ply would be better


    On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock

    Never let a chance go by
    Advice from an old Newcastle Boy
    I like this one a lot any excuse you can use to get money out of SWMBO is a good excuse

    Stevo

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    NJ, USA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashore
    On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock
    Nice one.....
    ___
    T.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    6

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashore

    On the other hand this might be a good time to talk SHMBO into letting you buy a thicknesser then you could get the wood exactily same thickness as gyprock

    Never let a chance go by
    Advice from an old Newcastle Boy

    These are my excuses that I used since I started renovating the garage: Makita cordless driver, Paslode cordless framer, Bostitch finisher, Super Cheap nailer/stapler kit, GMC compressor, GMC SCMS, GMC power planer, Bosch rotary hammer, Makita circular saw, Makita jig saw, plus heaps of other small tools. A thicknesser doesn't sound too bad , but I have to finish my garage to a lockup stage first, especially after reading those threads about breaking in....

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •