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1st November 2013, 10:35 AM #1
Glue for soundboard joining question
G'day.
Need to know what the options are for joining a Western Red Cedar book matched pair.
The timber is 3mm thick & I will be having to glue the 3mm edges together.
I want to do a clear finish on it so what ever I use has to be able to be cleaned up.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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1st November 2013, 12:27 PM #2Senior Member
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Either titebond original or hot hide glue will work fine. If you have no sacrificial thickness to remove after jointing, then I would coat the front surface with shellac to help cleanup
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1st November 2013, 01:56 PM #3
Beauty, thanks.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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1st November 2013, 07:00 PM #4Alumnus of Wood and Strings
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There will be some surface scraping or sanding required despite all your attempts to make the perfect join. My preference is for hide glue. It is strong, easy to clean up and easily reversible, and allows any finish type when you are ready to finish.
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4th November 2013, 06:49 AM #5Senior Member
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What Jeff and Baz said and prior coating with shellac is always a good idea, keeps things clean and is also easily removed later on.
Steve
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4th November 2013, 09:00 AM #6
Thanks, I plan to call in to Carba-tec this morning to get some U-Beaut hard shellac HARD SHELLAC - New improved formula finish.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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4th November 2013, 09:15 AM #7
Would this work?
Coat surface with Shellac as per Jeff;
Run plane over edges to be joined to ensure no shellac on the glueing area
Place wood FACE down and join with strip of STRONG tape
Flip wood over and fold using tape as a "hinge", add hide glue and then close joint again. Lay wood back down on flat surface.
Clean off squeeze out, add a layer of plastic/glad wrap, a flat piece of timber/MDF and then a heavy weight to ensure timber stays flat.
When the glue has dried I think you should be right with only minor scraping required at the join.
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4th November 2013, 06:49 PM #8
That's how I do it Tiff. Works a treat.
"We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer
My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com
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4th November 2013, 08:09 PM #9
That was my plan too.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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5th November 2013, 03:55 AM #10
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5th November 2013, 06:50 AM #11
How are you using Hard Shellac now Martin?
"We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer
My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com
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5th November 2013, 08:51 AM #12
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7th November 2013, 03:47 PM #13
Titebond make a liquid hide glue.
Titebond - Product
I got some at Carba-tec.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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7th November 2013, 04:18 PM #14Senior Member
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Liquid hide glue is NOT recommended by any luthier I know. Titebond Original or HOT Hide glue only
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7th November 2013, 05:18 PM #15
Thanks, is there a problem with it?
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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