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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Caves Beach, NSW
    Posts
    277

    Default

    Mixed results It does not get as hard as regular hide glue. If it worked it would be incredibly popular but it is not. Some have gone to fish glue.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    Ta.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Age
    76
    Posts
    113

    Default Shelf Life

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffhigh View Post
    Liquid hide glue is NOT recommended by any luthier I know. Titebond Original or HOT Hide glue only

    Yep, big problems. Liquid hide hide has a shelf life, which is totally dependent on the storage conditions. And unless they have changed things in the last couple of years, there is no "use by" date on the bottle. Consequently, you don't know how long it's been on the suppliers shelf. Avoid it like the plague.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Bagdad Tasmania
    Age
    77
    Posts
    1,504

    Default

    Or make your own my wife's Dad use to.
    Quote Originally Posted by Baz1000 View Post
    Yep, big problems. Liquid hide hide has a shelf life, which is totally dependent on the storage conditions. And unless they have changed things in the last couple of years, there is no "use by" date on the bottle. Consequently, you don't know how long it's been on the suppliers shelf. Avoid it like the plague.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Glasgow, UK
    Posts
    10

    Default

    I would totally back up some posts here about using hot hide glue (I use rabbit glue, the lightest in colour).
    Chief Tiff has perfectly described my favourite method for gluing the center joint of an instrument soundboard.
    Use hot glue at that point and, carefully planned, the plates will joint seamlessly with a completely invisible joint - particularly on soft wood.
    You can then do any finish. The joint is also stronger than the wood fibre's resistance.

    Good luck ;-)

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    649

    Default

    We use titebond for 90 percent of the tops and backs we join, you do not need to shellac or anything like that. Simply make it a good tight joint.

    Hide glue is good but working time from pot to edge of wood to joined may not be sufficient for most people, before it's dry and set.

    liquid hide glue is useless, I haven't found one application yet that it's good for.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    I now have a big bottle of Titebond.

    What did you find wrong (besides everything) with the liquid hide glue Simso?

    Thanks.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    649

    Default

    Hide glue is good because of its strength and fast setting capabilities with minimal creep under load.

    titebond original is good because of its slow set time, allows more time to clamp and jig, however with excessive heat you get creep happening earlier than hide glue

    Liquid hide glue is slow setting and has contaminants added to slow it's setting time, taking this into consideration there is no advantage of use, over titebond original

    add to this I've had a few fretboard failures whilst trialing the product years ago, I've never been a fan since, all of course my findings not facts

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    Ta.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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