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10th November 2013, 09:27 PM #1New Member
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- Feb 2013
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- Melbourne
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Sisalation or bubble/foam insulation
Hi all,
Long time lurker first ever post. During last summer, I had enough of the heat in my shed so I ended up insulating the shed roof my 75mm permastop foil building blanket. That made a hell of a difference and before the next heat wave hits I would like to insulate the walls. I was thinking of using a heavy duty sisalation but does bubble/foam insulating justify the extra cost? I heard bubble insulation doesn't perform any better than normal sisilation? Is that correct?
I would consider lining the inside with plasterboard but does an internal wooden frame need to be erected before applying the plasterboard? My shed uses 75mm top hats on the walls and there are 4 of them going horizontally. So is a wooden frame still needed?
The issue is the shed is on the largish side so lining the inside would be a pain. The walls are over 3 metres high on the sides and at the front and back they are about 5 metres at the ridging.
Thoughts?
Thanks
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10th November 2013, 10:29 PM #2.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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I'm not convinced it really makes much difference but the bubble wrap stuff sure is easy to put up. About 1/4 of my shed walls are 75 mm rock wool under miniorb internal cladding, 1/4 is sisalation under gyprock, and 1/2 is bubble/foam under gyprock. The roof has sisalation. The whole structure is not that large (42 m2), gets different solar exposures and is different heights etc so it's not easy to measure any significant temp differences between the 3 different wall types.
I would consider lining the inside with plasterboard but does an internal wooden frame need to be erected before applying the plasterboard? My shed uses 75mm top hats on the walls and there are 4 of them going horizontally. So is a wooden frame still needed?
The newer part of my shed, which is all steel construction, has 3 , 50 x 100 mm wide C-Section horizontals I added 75 mm wide galv C-sections vertical between them.
I used 1200 x 2400 sheets so I spaced the verticals every 600 mm
Because the sides of both C-sections are flat I was able to use tek screws in the cavity but I did use pop rivets in a couple of places where I could not use tek screws.
On the old part of my shed which has a wooden frame I added wooden verticals every 600 mm.
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19th November 2013, 09:51 PM #3Senior Member
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- Nov 2007
- Location
- mid north coast NSW
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- 148
My new ( march) Ranbuild shed is 9 1/2 X 7 m X 3.2 m high. I have lined one section of the side and across the end with yellow tongue flooring with some insulation bats in between. I had them put Air Cell under roofing when the shed was built. I am pleased with the over result, it certainly stops the sun heating up the western wall. One advantage with the Y/T is that you can hang "what ever" on the walls easily, I have painted the walls light blue ! Yellow tongue flooring IS heavy and you will need a mate to help you put it up! Graeme
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11th December 2013, 03:35 AM #4New Member
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- Feb 2013
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- Melbourne
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- 5
I bought 80 square metres of the fletcher extra heavy duty wall wrap, meant to be the best wrap you can get. I calculated with no overlap in the wrap (they recommend 15cm) I'll need around 80 square metres of the stuff. So I've ran out with 20 square metres to go. But what I've noticed with the wall wrap it's warmer at night and on a 30 degree day at its peak my shed usually hovered at around 40 degrees without the 75mm roof blanket, 27 degrees with blanket. Now it's about 24-25 on a 30 degree day. Still it's too much on the hot side so I'm going to line the inside with plasterboard and shove in some wall insulation. What improvements in temp should I expect?
Again it's a lot of plastering but I'm going down the wooden stud wall path with plasterboard. I've looked at 70x35 merch pine and the stuff doesn't look at that flash. Would using merch pine cause a wavy finish when the plasterboard is up? I was thinking of using structural pine instead??
thanks
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11th December 2013, 08:25 AM #5
Sisalation or bubble/foam insulation
Most heat gain is through the roof. That is why insulation for roof is often R 3.5 compared to R 1.5 for walls.
I would look at which walls most face the sun. Is there any overhang where the roof shades the wall (not likely on your average shed.
Also windows that face the sun. Are they getting direct sun light if you have any.
Shade sails can make a considerable difference. I have even contemplated putting one above my kitchen roof which is a 'lean to' extension.
If your walls allow it I would go for R 2.0 but would also consider all the above.
Dave
The Turning Cowboy
Note - I have been told that 5% gaps can lead to a 95% reduction in efficiency when using insulation. Try to make it fit snug.
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