Studs on brick question

[DaveTTC]

Just adding to the mix. Ray has it covered very well.

1) I would pull off the cornice on the brick walls to ceiling.

2) screw a channel to the ceiling to hold the top of you studs. As you are going flat a top and bottom plate would not be as effective in my opinion. A similar channel could be used on the bottom fixed to the floor.

3) one or two rows of fixings in the face of the studs. Alternate to nylon anchors and bolts is simply drill a 1/4" hole in your studs and then through into your brick. Put a timber dowel through both and either nail or screw. This is a cheaper option and I find it works very well


Edit : you can use larger size dowel if you like. I buy it in long lengths, push it in the whole pill depth and snap or cut flush with a chisel.

Another advantage is if it does not hold for some reason another nail or screw in the same dowel will generally fix the problem (this has been an issue for me in lime mortar with stone walls). It does not matter of the dowel splits etc

Dave

The Turning Cowboy

[groeneaj]

Ok so I got some options now and I need to start making decisions. I've got days available for the next month so I'm hoping to get everything finished by then.

In regards to the moisture query with the panels, the manufacturer states the panels are unaffected by water. See link below.
Quietspace Acoustic Foam Baffle Absorber

I'm almost certainly going to build the stud wall first then lift it up to the wall. I'll attach it to the floor, but I'm still looking for a way of securing the top plate. And not sure if I'll need to bolt any of the vertical studs also?

Thanks again.

[groeneaj]

Some pics so far. Unfortunately I couldn't get everything out of the workshop so I'm working around my machines and tools. Walls are hopefully not too far away!




As you can see there was a lot to move!

[groeneaj]

First wall up! Glued and screwed. I'll attach a 90x45mm stud running the distance of the top and use this to screw my top plate to. I'll bolt down the bottom plate too.

.

Could someone please tell me if there is a safety distance between a fireplace flue and timber? As you can see I'm pretty close but it shouldn't be a problem if I trimmed down the excess. The other side of this wall is a cavity then more brick then my living room which is where the fireplace is located.




Thanks!

[groeneaj]

Also, has anyone installed the triton timber racks to 70x35mm studs? Would it be strong enough (600mm distance) or should I screw another stud to beef up the strength?

Cheers.

[rwbuild]

Could someone please tell me if there is a safety distance between a fireplace flue and timber? As you can see I'm pretty close but it shouldn't be a problem if I trimmed down the excess. The other side of this wall is a cavity then more brick then my living room which is where the fireplace is located.

Thanks!

The regulation is 150mm clear

[Timless Timber]

In theory double brick should always be dry internally.

Truthfully few are these days - down at floor level.

Once upon a time, such walls were laid with timber battens the width of the gap, on ropes, in between the inner and outer leaf that the brickies lifted up and any surplus mud that dropped between the inner & outer leaves was removed to prevent such mud (mortar) creating a bridge for moisture between the inner and outer leaves of the 2 walls.

The wire brick ties used that tie the inner and outer leaves together have a v bend midway that points downwards for any moisture to drip off into the bottom of the cavity and drain out the external leaf weep holes (lowest course vertical joints without mortar).

These brick ties make using battens almost impossible - no one uses them any more (Battens) so you often do get mortar that sits on the brick ties and wicks moisture between the inner and outer leaves of external walls (internal walls will be single course brick).

Down the bottom of the gap you get 6 inches or so of spilled mortar that also wicks moisture to the inner leaf, and blocks the drain holes in the outer leaf.

As a result usually in high rainfall / wet areas the bottom foot or so of the wall is always moist. You can check it with a moisture encounter.

Next the bricks are all extruded these days with holes in them so getting dyna bolts to pull up tight within their threaded length will be next to impossible - every one that the hole drills into a brick void won't pull up tight coz its bearing on air inside the brick. The ones that go into the mortar joints will want to separate the bricks. THis your frame won;t likely be well secured to bear cantilevered weight hanging off it.

If it were me - I'd use a moisture barrier.
As always, others mileage will vary.

[groeneaj]

Thanks for your response. I am in fact using a moisture barrier, I just haven't attached it yet. The frame is just leaning against the wall at the moment. I plan to just use it behind the studs and that's it. The panels are unaffected by moisture but I am confirming this tomorrow with the manufacturer.

You bring up my initial problem. I think bolting the bottom plate should be fine bolted through the concrete. But the top plate I'm still unclear.
Brackets have been suggested but would I come across the same issues with other fasteners?

Cheers

[groeneaj]

The regulation is 150mm clear

Thanks

[Timless Timber]

Other fasteners.

After a lot of years in cabinet trade and fixing cabinets to brick walls... the ramset nylon anchors are my best guess.

They seem to hold a bull out to p!ss.



Don't profess to know why - they just seem to work.

Berger paints - when your on a good thing, stick to it.

[groeneaj]

Other fasteners.After a lot of years in cabinet trade and fixing cabinets to brick walls... the ramset nylon anchors are my best guess.They seem to hold a bull out to p!ss. Don't profess to know why - they just seem to work.Berger paints - when your on a good thing, stick to it.

I looked at these but they say "light duty". I'm just concerned they may give in? I know it's just to stop it falling down but I am putting a fair bit of weight on the studs eg ply lining with a timber racks.Any recommendations for brackets? Size etc?I just don't want to stuff this up ie ruin the structural integrity of the brick wall.Cheers.

[rwbuild]

Use these, 100% positive, I have put large colorbond roofs up over patio's using these into all types of brick, never had one blow down or any probs

Ramset Australia

the nylon ones can and do fail

These also work very well but dont over tighten in brick, it will shatter the brick, never fix any anchor into the last course of bricks if there is going to be any load, is ok for fitting trims but not loaded, if you are going to impose a load minimum 3 crs from the top

Ramset Australia

[groeneaj]

Use these, 100% positive, I have put large colorbond roofs up over patio's using these into all types of brick, never had one blow down or any probs

Ramset Australia

the nylon ones can and do fail

These also work very well but dont over tighten in brick, it will shatter the brick, never fix any anchor into the last course of bricks if there is going to be any load, is ok for fitting trims but not loaded, if you are going to impose a load minimum 3 crs from the top

Ramset Australia

Ok Ray, I'm sold mate.

As for the brackets, how big etc? I was thinking at least 2 to 3 fasteners into the brick and then screw into the studs?

[rwbuild]

Ok Ray, I'm sold mate.

As for the brackets, how big etc? I was thinking at least 2 to 3 fasteners into the brick and then screw into the studs?

Bracket Angle 75x75x20mm Zp Hed5075 I/N 2763905 | Bunnings Warehouse

This bracket ok, if you are going to put heavy loads on your studs, use 1 each side of stud, if light loads 1 will do

If you use ShureDrive to fix to brick 1 each hole and 1 x type17 25mm long into studs per leg

Angle Bracket Sturdy Zenith 40x80x40x5m12 Hdg Heg8484 I/N 3961310 | Bunnings Warehouse

If you use this bracket use the AnkaScrew 1 into brickwork and 1 x type17 25mm into stud

[groeneaj]

Thanks Ray!