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Thread: New Shed build

  1. #31
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    I've been talking to concrete guys and got price for slab after shed. 8m x 10.4m

    Concrete guy 1: Mates rates $5,790 cash. Wants me to alter the way the footings are engineered and he'll pour the slab over the footings.
    Concrete guy 2: $6,300. Wanted to know what brand of shed it was. Said he was familiar with their specs and will do it as stipulated.

    Concrete guy 1 was nice enough with a lot of experience and my mate says he's good however I'd have to put him in the cowboy class.
    Concrete guy 2 is a pro.

    I will be calling concrete guy 2 in the morning.

    Now, I have since flip flopped on the order of works jumping rom the shed first camp to the slab first camp. After watching youtube and getting up to speed on pouring my own footings I figured it will be easier, cheaper and less headaches if I get the concreter to come in and do the whole thing at the start. Concrete guy 2 says it will cost another $200 to $300 for him to do it.

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  3. #32
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    The concreters set up their form work on Friday and are coming to do the pour on Monday morning. All going well. I'll position the pipes for electricity, waste and water tomorrow.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #33
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    The concreters came and poured the slab. I decided against running water and power through the slab and will now come through the side of the shed.

    My next door neighbor is pretty cluey and he reckons they did a very good job. There were a few issues that annoyed me but I will be able to work around them. They set 8 stirrups in the concrete but 1 of them was badly positioned and I had to drill a bigger hole in the column to make it fit and I will have to cut some of the concrete away so the colorbond will sit right.

    The frame is nearly complete and she should be nice and rigid when I'm done. I've got to put the purlins across the roof next and I'll tackle that on Friday when dad comes back to give me a hand. In the meantime I'll buy some insulation for the roof. I'm looking at Anticon and need to decide on which thickness to get.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #34
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    I want to line my shed and was thinking of using yellow tongue flooring but now the cluey bloke next door who works at the local hardware tells me they have some good ply going for $30 a sheet, normally $120. Another decision to make. The ply sounds good but the yellow tongue is longer and I can get to the roof in one piece (2.7m roof).

  6. #35
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    Default Probably moot now

    Now RWbuild and Timeless are pretty cluey. Could Ray or someone else please elaborate on why having the footings and the slab the same height is the way to go.
    It's probably moot now coz you have your pad & footings down already.

    One problem with havingyour pads say an inch or so below finished floor level - is that you don't have the mesh over the top of the pad and then the concrete layer is only thin there and prone to cracking around the edges of the pads.

    As I showed with mine - the pads were tapered like mini pyramids to key into slab & lock down on the weight of the slab - if the pads were lifted at all in a cock eyed bob/mini tornado type wind event.

    In reality whatever you have there seems to be fine. Your well past this stage so no point debating the pros or cons now.

    I couldn't see your forming up from the small pic (I'll go back and make it full screen after this) - with mine i thickened the edge of the slab to 250mm just to make a beam support around the outside edge where the weight of walls and roof bears down on the frames and pads, just for extra strength and I made it about 300 ish with 1/2 inch reo rods & trench mesh across the front entrance where the roller door is to let vehicles in without cracking the slab. (My F 250's about 3.5 tonnes) so not the usual car weight - I figured it couldn't hurt while I was there.

    When it was finnished I ran another reinforced concrete beam across the front about 40 odd mm down from floor height and mudded in a row of pavers lengthwise to the entrance - ramped up from grass level to floor level - this way there's no "bump" when putting a vehicle in off the lawn - its a gradual slope and the bricks won't crack coz they have reo & concrete base with cement (mortar) to settle/bed them in and keep them there.

    I put 1 meter wide paths around the 2 fence sides of mine...with matching herring-boned brick paver's so it all matches into the shed color scheme and looks like it was done professionally. Ist where I store stuff outta sight like long alloy ladders, and it saves walking thru the sand (and tramping it back thru the shed & house later) when I need to go get tools like wheel barrows and fridge trolleys etc... that I don't want taking up space inside the shed (i.e trying to create working space rather than storage space)

    Again your past this stage so it's all moot really - but who knows someone might do a search one day and find the thread and learn something from it.

    Keep up the good work - looks like your all over it like white on rice.

    With your lining... are you trying to keep heat / cold out or noise in? Different lining materials will perform better or worse depending what your trying to achieve.

    When you get your eaves purlins up - and put your roof purlins on - are you intending to fly brace the walls and roof before cladding at all?

    Some designs call for it others don't - the wall and roof sheets do brace everything pretty well - usually the span distance dictates whether to use strap to fly brace walls and roof before cladding is all.

    Also before cladding the roof I put the air cell insulation up over a under support strata of light mesh and clad over the top of that!.

    If you have any alcynite (clear/light) type sheets I think you have to have mesh underneath those sections to prevent anyone falling thru.

    There was a SES volunteer guy killed here not long, back walking on the roof of a local SES shed and he fell backwards thru a alcynite sheet onto the concrete floor below and died from his head injuries. It turned out the SES violunteers erected their shed, and no one knew they had to put mesh capable of supporting a mans weight under the clear sheets on the roof.

    Just a couple suggestions.

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timless Timber View Post

    With your lining... are you trying to keep heat / cold out or noise in? Different lining materials will perform better or worse depending what your trying to achieve.

    When you get your eaves purlins up - and put your roof purlins on - are you intending to fly brace the walls and roof before cladding at all?

    Some designs call for it others don't - the wall and roof sheets do brace everything pretty well - usually the span distance dictates whether to use strap to fly brace walls and roof before cladding is all.

    Also before cladding the roof I put the air cell insulation up over a under support strata of light mesh and clad over the top of that!.


    Just a couple suggestions.
    The shed lining is going to be used to hold the insulation bats.

    The plans call for fly braces and I've got those on the wall so far.

    I don't know if I need the mesh under the insulation. I'm going to ask the supplier what is recommended for the Anticon.

    Thanks for the input on the slab. I'm glad I put it in first, just a bit annoyed that the stirrup is in the wrong spot.

  8. #37
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    Default If

    If your going to insulate and line the interior wall faces - you'd probably be best running all your power and conduits etc inside first.
    You have a ways to go yet but you've broken the back of it.
    Heck almost 2 year since I started mine and I'm still finishing it off.

  9. #38
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    I'm watching with interest as I'm having a shed built at the moment. I've gone for power and plumbing through the slab, and the slab was poured yesterday (but I haven't seen it yet). I'm hoping the shed will go up next week. Then I will be putting in the doors and windows myself (not the roller doors - the shed company is doing that). I also want to epoxy/paint the floor before I put any of the internal walls or lining in. Like you I want to insulate and line the inside of the walls. I'm going to use ply for the lining. I want to cut sheets of ply to 1200 by 1200 and then put them up as panels, so that I can nail/screw to them as I want to. That way if I want to I can just replace a panel, or if I want to move some functions from one part of the shed to another I can just move a panel. I will have my sparkie in to do the power before I put the wall linings on. Your shed is looking good so far, well done.
    Bob C.

    Never give up.

  10. #39
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    Default Yellow tongue acoustics

    Some years back I completely renovated 2 old sydney apartments, one above the other. The noise downstairs was terrible. Walking, talking, "activities of life" were hard to ignore.

    When we pulled up the floor we used yellow tongue On the upstairs floor and pink insulation in the roof of the downstairs apartment. Im trying to remember if we stapled some sort of thin black rubber tubing (?) onto the top of the joists (memory fails me). The difference was absolutely incredible. Not a peep.

    This might be good for the shed if you intend doing some late night noisings.

    Page 26 of this discusses some acoustic properties:

    http://www.chhwoodproducts.com.au/us...g_Brochure.pdf

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timless Timber View Post
    If your going to insulate and line the interior wall faces - you'd probably be best running all your power and conduits etc inside first.
    Yep. already planned on that one.

    Quote Originally Posted by Timless Timber View Post
    Heck almost 2 year since I started mine and I'm still finishing it off.
    2 years is good. Have a look when I joined the forum. 10 years ago, because I wanted to do some woodwork. I'm just about ready to get stuck in to it.

  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timless Timber View Post
    If your going to insulate and line the interior wall faces - you'd probably be best running all your power and conduits etc inside first.
    You have a ways to go yet but you've broken the back of it.
    Heck almost 2 year since I started mine and I'm still finishing it off.
    Quote Originally Posted by Poppa View Post
    I'm watching with interest as I'm having a shed built at the moment. I've gone for power and plumbing through the slab, and the slab was poured yesterday (but I haven't seen it yet). I'm hoping the shed will go up next week. Then I will be putting in the doors and windows myself (not the roller doors - the shed company is doing that). I also want to epoxy/paint the floor before I put any of the internal walls or lining in. Like you I want to insulate and line the inside of the walls. I'm going to use ply for the lining. I want to cut sheets of ply to 1200 by 1200 and then put them up as panels, so that I can nail/screw to them as I want to. That way if I want to I can just replace a panel, or if I want to move some functions from one part of the shed to another I can just move a panel. I will have my sparkie in to do the power before I put the wall linings on. Your shed is looking good so far, well done.
    I was planning on painting the floor but I haven't had a serious look at what sort of paint to use and how long I have to wait before I can do it. I expect as soon as the shed is up it will be filled up quick smart if I'm not ready to paint and then it'll never get done.

    I haven't gone into all the ins and outs of my erection and I'm by no means an expert but if you or anyone else has a question fore away and I'll tell you what I've done.

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evanism View Post
    Some years back I completely renovated 2 old sydney apartments, one above the other. The noise downstairs was terrible. Walking, talking, "activities of life" were hard to ignore.

    When we pulled up the floor we used yellow tongue On the upstairs floor and pink insulation in the roof of the downstairs apartment. Im trying to remember if we stapled some sort of thin black rubber tubing (?) onto the top of the joists (memory fails me). The difference was absolutely incredible. Not a peep.

    This might be good for the shed if you intend doing some late night noisings.

    Page 26 of this discusses some acoustic properties:

    http://www.chhwoodproducts.com.au/us...g_Brochure.pdf
    Noise reduction may come into play. I live on 5 acres and my closest neighbor is about 80m from the shed but I work shift work. It would be good to come home and get into it at midnight.

  14. #43
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    Default Sound proofing

    I looked into sound proofing my shed.
    It's a lot closer to my neighbors than yours (<10 meters).
    Also the lad wants to play electric gee-tars up there with his Marshall amp etc.
    Sound acoustics... is a bit of a specialist field.

    I have the same idea to Panel the walls with pink or yella batts in between, and am just waiting on the sparky to complete the lights and extend my 3 phase for the dusty to the other side of the shed.

    Thing is this will help keep the heat and cold out and it will attenuate some sound, but from what I understand not as much sound as we might imagine.

    Base type sounds transmit pretty well thru anything solid like steel.. so Panels screwed to the steel girts etc just transfer the sound pretty much straight thru.

    There is an accoustic type system you can buy (from Bunnings?) that uses those top hat type purlins... but they are not as tall as your typical construction top hats. I think 30mm from memory.

    They have special rubber fixings that go on them... and you fix your 2nd layer wall sheets with screws thru these rubber grommit type fixings.

    This system allows the whole sound wall to move in and out independently of the wall its fixed too except for the rubber moving connectors.

    Apprently this prevents the base type sounds transmitting thru the girts and wall sheets.... They suggest 2 x 10mm gyprock sheets in the inside for sound proofing with some type of foam egg crate type covering if you want to absorb as much sound as possible.

    Also double glazing your windows apparently helps keep a lot of sound in.



    This is a whisper clip..for a floating wall.. sort of similar to what I've seen.

    You probably don't want to go to all this effort expense.....but maybe others who will search the topic one day might.

    Not sure yet just what I will do....cross that bridge when I get to it.

  15. #44
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    Arch Stanton mentioned this.

    I was planning on painting the floor but I haven't had a serious look at what sort of paint to use and how long I have to wait before I can do it. I expect as soon as the shed is up it will be filled up quick smart if I'm not ready to paint and then it'll never get done.


    This mob are in Keysborough and pretty much have everything you'll need for anything to do with concrete, their pricing is pretty good as well.

    I used Staseal with a light grey tint, 10 litre can, I managed three coats with some left over on a 6.5m x 4.1m floor. Best thing I did, easy as anything to keep clean, sweeping is a breeze and finding nuts and washers, not to mention loose ball bearings, is great.

    I waited two weeks after the slab went down before starting sealing/painting, you could do it within about 7 days, but I think the concrete is still drying and the job would be a bit of a mess if you did it any earlier than that.


    http://www.concreterswarehouse.com.a...emium-sealers/


    Mick.

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arch Stanton View Post
    I was planning on painting the floor but I haven't had a serious look at what sort of paint to use and how long I have to wait before I can do it. I expect as soon as the shed is up it will be filled up quick smart if I'm not ready to paint and then it'll never get done.
    I used Berge Jet-dry and waited the recommended 3 months before painting mine.
    I realise there are products around that don't require anywhere near that long and I thought that would be a PITA but I used the time very effectively.
    Firstly I has the sparky do his bit.
    Then I fully insulated and lined the internal walls
    Then I installed a laundry trough - cold water and sewage connections - there's no need paint under that.
    Then I installed a full reticulated compressed air system
    And then some wall shelving and racks
    All of the above is MUCH easier to do without stuff in the shed to clutter things up.
    About then 3 months was up and it was time to paint the floor.

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