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Thread: New Shed build

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedbound View Post
    Hi Arch, glad it helped bugger about the short sheets when they supplied my shed I had about 1 & 3/4 sheets left over they cut it tight with quantities even down to the screws. can you raise the lintle over the roller door a bit. or is it too late?

    Originally it looked liked like I'd have a sheet up my sleeve but one of the sheets earmarked for the side is marked. It looks like some sort of blue paint. I'm going to do a bit of a stocktake and then call the supplier. I'm also missing door handles and I want a bit of J flashing for above the door. That seems to be an optional extra.

    On another note. What is the go when you get to the edge of 1 side and you need half a sheet to reach the end? I've just overlapped half a sheet. I'm not suppose to cut the sheet to width am I?

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  3. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arch Stanton View Post
    Originally it looked liked like I'd have a sheet up my sleeve but one of the sheets earmarked for the side is marked. It looks like some sort of blue paint. I'm going to do a bit of a stocktake and then call the supplier. I'm also missing door handles and I want a bit of J flashing for above the door. That seems to be an optional extra.

    On another note. What is the go when you get to the edge of 1 side and you need half a sheet to reach the end? I've just overlapped half a sheet. I'm not suppose to cut the sheet to width am I?


    Yes
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  4. #63
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    Time to look ahead a bit. Once the shed is up I still have a lot of work to do:

    * paint floor
    * insulate and line walls then paint
    * build a big bench under the window
    * install power and lighting
    * get some sort of heater

    plus other stuff I've forgotten or don't know I need.

    The electrical work is the biggie. It sounds like putting cables in conduit and having them exposed on the lining is the way to go. I'll probably get the sparky to work in stages. Run in the power, do the lights and a couple of GPOs. That'll be enough to get by why I do the lining which, unlike efficient workers who could do it in a day, will take me 2 months. Then I'll get him back and finish it.

    The shed is 8m x 10.4m. The plan is to hang a stack of flouros. I'll be guided by what the sparky tells me I need. I want a good coverage on the roof and lower ones along the bench in front of the window.

    The final layout is up in the air but the position of the window bench, fridge and trough is final.

    shed.jpg

  5. #64
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    Rwbuild is right I like ti rip a sheet. One thing I really like in my shed is a single light(batten holder) on a seperate switch for those times when all you need to do is go to the shed just to grab something. saves firing up the fluoros. my light and switch are next to the acess door
    cheers
    joel

  6. #65
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    That's another excellent idea. Will keep that in mind too...
    Bob C.

    Never give up.

  7. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedbound View Post
    Rwbuild is right I like ti rip a sheet. One thing I really like in my shed is a single light(batten holder) on a seperate switch for those times when all you need to do is go to the shed just to grab something. saves firing up the fluoros. my light and switch are next to the acess door
    cheers
    joel
    Yep, another good idea. I was going to put an exterior light over the PA door. I might hook it up to an interior batten, a la the Shedbound system.

  8. #67
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    With regard to the batten holder, inside, to offer minimal lighting, I have mine hooked to an external flood light as well that goes through a delay switch. It means you can approach the shed push in the delay switch, do what you must inside then walk away with the flood light to show you where you are, then it just goes out.
    Yes I could have used a movement detected light but here in the bush the night is alive with all sorts of critters (good and bad)
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  9. #68
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    I suggest you look at the latest in LED lighting, some excellent products available, dont be fooled by the price, you will more than save it in lower electrical usage
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  10. #69
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    that's a good suggestion Ray I should look into them for in the shed myself I have an external led flood light but as yet its not installed so yet to see what light it throws.

  11. #70
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    Agree with the LED lighting. We've got mostly LED bulbs inside the new house and they're great. No delay to turn on or slow glow - instant on and the light is bright and whiter than incandescent without the flicker of flouros or the heat. And we've not had one bulb fail yet. They are an example of new technology that actually works.
    Bob C.

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  12. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poppa View Post
    Agree with the LED lighting. We've got mostly LED bulbs inside the new house and they're great. No delay to turn on or slow glow - instant on and the light is bright and whiter than incandescent without the flicker of flouros or the heat. And we've not had one bulb fail yet. They are an example of new technology that actually works.
    I'm going to have to see them in action. I now that they are a lot better now but the LEDs I've seen in the past didn't impress me at all.

  13. #72
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    A couple of things I forgot to mention. Once the floor is painted I'll be putting in the retro Vermaseal and then when it comes to lining with the yellow tongue I will make stud frames and dynabolt to the floor and screw to the columns. I won't attatch to the purlins. I want then walls strong enough to hang things on and not risk the integrity of the shed.

  14. #73
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    Don yourself a big favor, screw to the purlins / wall girts, it won't affect the integrity of the shed, it will improve it
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  15. #74
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    I've had the same advice from a bloke that has built a few sheds - attach the stud frames directly to the shed supports (didn't know they were called purlins and girts!). He also said that I don't really need the stud frames, as each wall has four girts (I'm assuming these are the horizontal supports?) - top, bottom and two evenly spaced at thirds up the wall and there is enough room for insulation without the stud wall. But I'm still wanting to do the stud wall (never made one before, I want the experience).
    Bob C.

    Never give up.

  16. #75
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    You may wish to build a small, dust proof room in a corner. Handy for all sorts of things, particularly for applying finishes. Or maybe an office. Then you can knock up stud walls to your hearts content.

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