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  1. #46
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Heavansabove View Post
    Try rubbing the etch with alum foil and Autosol. This combination does not cut the steel plate, but there is a chemical reaction that produces a black slurry that fills in the etch and makes it easier to read.
    Thanks

    Will give it a try but one question ... which particular Autosol product?
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

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  3. #47
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Nick

    I'm not trying to hijack the thread...Really.

    A friend recently bought a couple of old saws on my behalf when he was at a local show (100km away. It's local for around here ). He knew I had been buying some and thought I might like them. Well, I couldn't say "no" for a number of reasons.

    I had that old water softener around that I mentioned and I had retained it for the express purpose of de-rusting hand saws.

    I thought you might like to see the set-up. In my defense for "not doing a hijack" I didn't even take a pic of the saw, although I realise it would have made a better story, albeit less defensible . Suffice to say it was in a similar condition to your saws with a good coating of surface rust.

    spear and jackson 001.jpgspear and jackson 002.jpg

    I found the original article in "AWR," which was Issue #40, page 50, as I couldn't remember the recipe. Basically it was two teaspoons of washing soda to a litre of water. I ended up putting the whole kilo bag into the container as it required 80 to 90 litres of water to cover the saw plate.

    There are also a number of factors that modify this process. The first, as mentioned above, is the amount of soda. The second is the proximity of the sacrificial anodes to the workpiece. Closer proximity results in more vigorous chemical activity. The third is the power of the battery charger. I have used this charger before, but it is 10amp and I would have preferred to use my trusty little 4 amp charger, but I must have left that down in NSW. It is just a little more controllable.

    It is best to begin conservatively, observe how the reaction is going and adjust as required ( add soda or re-position the anodes. The battery charger is not normally adjustable.)

    Incidentally, I moved the charger further away from the container after taking the pix. There is a SS anode (fancy name for a strip of stainless steel scrap instrument tubing) each side of the saw plate and connected with multiple turns of fencing wire.

    I'll check it tonight and then again in the morning.

    A handle pic in lieu of a saw plate pic .

    spear and jackson 007.jpg

    It's got a screw missing; A bit like me .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #48
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    Default The fold has grown

    by about 120% actually

    picked up this mixed bag of new additions to the saw till today

    No 6

    The medallion says "Slack Sellars & Co, Sheffield"
    the imprint under the tote says it was originally 7 pt.
    It's currently crosscut and 7pt. The blade is 25 1/2" long
    It is missing a nut and I can't see any etch
    The tote seems to have had a coat or two of varnish recently.
    Interesting the rounding at the toe end - original?

    Saw no 6_Slack Sellars_3647.jpgSaw no 6_Slack Sellars_3644.jpgSaw no 6_Slack Sellars_3645.jpgSaw no 6_Slack Sellars_3650.jpg


    No 7

    The medallion states "H Disston & Sons"
    the tote has a split
    It is 6pt and filed rip
    blade is 26 1/4"
    The break in the tote has been repaired with string (typical aussie bush fixup)
    I'm not sure I'll be able to repair the tote I'll have to try a bit of epoxy and see how it goes.

    Saw no7 Disston & Sons_3651.jpgSaw no7 Disston & Sons_3658.jpgSaw no7 Disston & Sons_3654.jpgSaw no7 Disston & Sons_3657.jpg

    No 8

    Noname saw - no medallion and I can't see an etch
    The stamp under the handle indicates it was originally 6pt
    It's now 4pt and crosscut - pretty agressive saw, methinks.
    the blade is 26" and has been cleaned with an orbital sander in its (recent?) past going by the swirling marks in the blade.

    Saw no 8_noname_3661.jpgSaw no 8_noname_3665.jpgSaw no 8_noname_3663.jpg

    No 9

    The medallion says "Warranted Superior"
    I can't see an etch
    the blade is 7pt rip and is 26 1/2" long

    Saw no 9 Warranted Superior_3667.jpgSaw no 9_Warranted Superior_3684.jpgSaw no 9_Warranted Superior_3668.jpgSaw no 9_Warranted Superior_3673.jpg

    No 10

    The medallion states "Disston"
    no etch that I can determine
    it has a cracked handle
    6pt crosscut and 25 3/4" blade

    Saw no 10_Disston_3680.jpgSaw no 10_Disston_3675.jpgSaw no 10_Disston_3677.jpgSaw no 10_Disston_3679.jpg

    No 11

    The Medallion says "EC Atkins & Co"
    "Pat Dec ?? 1887"
    "Indianopolis IND"
    I can't see an etch
    The tote has a fantastic paint job

    The mark under the tote states 6pt
    it is 6 pt rip and the blade is 26 1/4"
    It looks like it has been in a fight and lost a few teeth.

    Saw no 11_Atkins_3686.jpgSaw no 11_Atkin_3697.jpgSaw no 11_Atkins_3690.jpgSaw no 11_Atkin_3695.jpg



    And I thought I'd show a piccy of the temporary till

    Saw till_3699.jpg


    PS
    sorry about the clarity of the medallions
    I'll try again tomorrow (and this time I'll use the tripod)
    Last edited by Sawdust Maker; 12th February 2014 at 09:10 PM. Reason: add PS
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  5. #49
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Nick

    I'm not trying to hijack the thread...Really.

    ...

    Regards
    Paul
    Mate

    No probs it's all helping the learning process

    A before and after piccy for comparison purposes would be extremely useful.
    Wish I knew where I put the old man's charger
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  6. #50
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    Default

    Nick

    Oh dear oh dear....

    You're

    hooked-00cvr.gif

    The trick is not minding you're .....

    Having said that, can I engage you as my saw seeking...

    agent.jpg

    agent .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #51
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    Default

    If I'm hooked then I need a doctor




    Sylvia's dad was a cabinet maker and we were just ...
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  8. #52
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    If I'm hooked then I need a doctor




    Sylvia's dad was a cabinet maker and we were just ...

    Nick, Nick

    That's not funny. You're showing my age . Nostalgia ain't what it used to be .

    Regards
    Paul

    (More saw info tomorrow.)
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    Thanks

    Will give it a try but one question ... which particular Autosol product?
    Shine Metal Polish is the product, ships chandlers are the cheapest I have seen. I have never seen any other Autosol product for sale.

  10. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heavansabove View Post
    Shine Metal Polish is the product, ships chandlers are the cheapest I have seen. I have never seen any other Autosol product for sale.
    I think they make a range of products but this is the one familiar to anybody who has ever polished a car.

    autosol.jpg

    They have been around for a long time.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #55
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    Default

    Nick

    Without absolutely checking, I think your latest acquisitions include at least a couple of D23s.Very good user saws.

    This is how the S & J saw plate emerged from the electrolysis bath this morning:

    S & J Electrolysis 001.jpg

    As you can there is still a small patch of rust in the middle of the wider part of the plate. This is how it looked after the scum was gently rubbed off with a scourer:

    S & J Electrolysis 002.jpg

    Still a little more converting to do, but I am letting the battery charger cool down as it had become quite warm. Probably too much soda, but I will position the anodes a little further away. to make the process a little less volatile. I've just noticed that I turned over the plate for the second pic. It was pretty much the same on both sides.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #56
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    Default latest medallions

    I dug out the tripod and took photos of the medallions on the latest saws - five of them actually as one doesn't have a medallion



    Slack Sellars & Co

    Saw no 6_Slack Sellars_3726.jpgSaw no 6_Slack Sellars_3727.jpg



    H Disston & Sons

    possibly from 1896 - 1917 going on the details on the madallion
    the saw could be a No 86 going on the shape of the tote and the layout of the nuts

    Saw no 7_Disston & Sons_3719.jpgSaw no 7_Disston & Sons_3723.jpg



    Warranted Superior

    seems to be very similar to the medallion in saw number 1
    except this seems more worn

    Saw no 9_Warranted Superior_3717.jpgSaw no 9_Warranted Superior_3711.jpg

    Disston

    taking note of the layout of the nuts the only similar saw I can see is the metal cutting saw (no 240) but the tote is slightly different. and this saw is longer at 26" compared to 18" for the metal cutting saw
    maybe the same era 1945 - 50

    Saw no 10_Disston_3707.jpgSaw no 10_Disston_3704.jpg



    E C Atkins & Co

    Interesting read on the company but haven't found much to help with identifying the saw
    could be a No 53?

    Saw no 11_Atkins_3701.jpgSaw no 11_Atkins_3703.jpg
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  13. #57
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    Default

    The Autosol metal polish is available from Bunnies

    I probably wont get to try it out until Sunday or Monday
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  14. #58
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    Default

    Supercheap Auto also sell it, both in the tubes (cream consistency) and plastic bottle (liquid).

  15. #59
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    Default

    I've been struggling to get caught up

    Atkins info is out there ... bit dispersed ... http://www.mvr1.com/atkinssaws.html
    They are good quality saws. At least equal to Disston etc.

    >>
    Daryl Weir wrote this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/E-C-Atkins-26...-/331088120687
    "Here's a nice example of a 1920 era Atkins "SILVER STEEL" No.53. It's a cross cut hand saw, filed at 7ppi, with the blade being 26" long. This is one wood eat'n SOB but is very tame in doing it and is really a joy to use. As you would expect, it has the embossed apple "Perfection" handle which Atkins started using, instead of the carved handle, around 1912. Most of the Atkins saws were known for a light etch but this one actually has a pretty decent one. This surely was one of Atkins best selling saws as I see more of this model than the others. Just take a look at the picture above from a 1907 Atkins pocket catalog and it will give you a full description of the saw."
    The carved handle came before the flowery embossed one, ie pre-1912.
    >>

    Last night I was looking at a 1925 Melhuish catalogue (from http://toolemera.com/Trade%20Catalog...talogs192.html)
    They had their 'home brand' which scream out S&J or Tyzack (guessing maybe the former)
    Plus some Disstons, and some Atkins. Comparing the prices for say 26" saw is interesting.
    The Atkins were relatively cheap, but that might be to do with pursuing market share? and/or the year (1925) and winding down (US) stock??

    The wheat-carved s&j handle might be a step up from the 'standard' saw ...
    can we see the blade more closely after the elec please?

  16. #60
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    Default

    Bad news I'm afraid ... I knew something had been bugging me reading down the page ...

    looks like you've copped a 76 with your #7 marked saw.

    It'll need to be separated from the rest ... maybe sent to WA for safety

    The medallion on the mainline Disstons is only at the bottom for the wheat-carved#16 ...
    and the sticky-out handle is for #7s ... but yours is smooth-shaped like a sticky-out D8 handle.
    And I'm pretty sure it is applewood not beech?

    Which would point to a #76 Centennial ... http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/76page.html ... I think.

    If I'm right about the model #, ... and that medallion is original, ... it would pin it down to 1917-20
    (assuming I read correctly ... does it say "phila" rather than "philida"?)

    Cheers,
    Paul

    PS ... I put some links somwhere here recently on rehabs. One guy used two opposing wedges through the grip to open up the handle crack to get the glue in.
    then as per usual, easy-peasy.

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